Jump to content

Plug wires...


Recommended Posts

Posted

A couple months back, Chevy High Performance Mag did a test w/bolt on mods....one being Granatelli plug wires. They dyno'd the truck after each test. Just changing the wires made 15hp and 17trq on a 5.3L. They couldn't figure out why until they measured the resistance w/an ohm meter. OEM wires had 958ohms of resistance....the new wires had only .5ohms. I ordered the wires and measured the resistance myself. OEM wires showed 1001ohms and new wires showed .9ohms. They're alot of $$ (169.00 from Jegs) but have a lifetime warr. In conjunction w/the Grant Mas and cold air, they showed something like 55hp and 47trq increase....not bad.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
A couple months back, Chevy High Performance Mag did a test w/bolt on mods....one being Granatelli plug wires. They dyno'd the truck after each test. Just changing the wires made 15hp and 17trq on a 5.3L. They couldn't figure out why until they measured the resistance w/an ohm meter. OEM wires had 958ohms of resistance....the new wires had only .5ohms. I ordered the wires and measured the resistance myself. OEM wires showed 1001ohms and new wires showed .9ohms. They're alot of $$ (169.00 from Jegs) but have a lifetime warr. In conjunction w/the Grant Mas and cold air, they showed something like 55hp and 47trq increase....not bad.

 

 

 

I remember that article. No way in hell do I believe the wires pulled 15 HP.

Posted
A couple months back, Chevy High Performance Mag did a test w/bolt on mods....one being Granatelli plug wires. They dyno'd the truck after each test. Just changing the wires made 15hp and 17trq on a 5.3L. They couldn't figure out why until they measured the resistance w/an ohm meter. OEM wires had 958ohms of resistance....the new wires had only .5ohms. I ordered the wires and measured the resistance myself. OEM wires showed 1001ohms and new wires showed .9ohms. They're alot of $$ (169.00 from Jegs) but have a lifetime warr. In conjunction w/the Grant Mas and cold air, they showed something like 55hp and 47trq increase....not bad.

 

 

 

I remember that article. No way in hell do I believe the wires pulled 15 HP.

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I'm not buying that either. There is a measurable difference in the resistance, but jumping that gap on the plug is the big deal.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

It's interesting a set of plug wires would show such a high gain in horsepower by lowering the resistance. The reason for the high resistance is to maintain a decent amount of voltage while having a very insignifacant amount of amperage. The high voltage output of your coils going through a low resistance set of wires would create a lot of amperage, but you need VOLTAGE to jump the gaps at your plugs. From what I know and understand it would probably be better to keep the resistance the same or similar and with the Granatellis running $170 or more, I would just go with some AC Delco or MSD...got mine on eBay for less than jegs. Anyway, just my opinion.

Posted
In conjunction w/the Grant Mas and cold air, they showed something like 55hp and 47trq increase....not bad.

 

 

 

 

 

He said that in conjunction with the Grant Mas and cold air kit they showed a 55hp and 47trq increase. Not just the wires alone.

 

Unless you seriously mod your truck, going to extremes with plug wires is like killing a mosquito with a sledge hammer. Just a bit of overkill. But then that is just me. I could be wrong.

 

One has to remember that even a complete Westers PCM tune pulls thoses kind of numbers and not to much more from what I have read from others that have posted their results on their PCM tune. But hey if it really happened then cool. I wouldn't be so lucky.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 995 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...