Driveline squeel/sqeak.......

JLeosnow · October 2, 2005

An odd driveline noise has come up on our 01 4x4 Suburban 1500 and I was wondering if anyone has heard this and may have some insight to where to start looking. It is a very hollow sounding squeek/chirp that sounds to be coming from somewhere in/on the driveshaft area(middle to rear). It is a sound that is definetly related to the rotational speed of the driveshaft. Any ideas on what to look at?

Thanks,

-John

Bish · October 2, 2005

Universal Joints. Should be 2 of them.

JLeosnow · October 2, 2005

Universal Joints. Should be 2 of them.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bish,

Thanks for the reply. Have you personally had these go bad on your 01 Tahoe? If so, how many miles were on the vehicle when you replaced one/both of them? Can you give me any information on how to pin-point if the U-joints are indeed the culprit and if you know the amount of difficulty that is involved with changing them.........Any tips or helpful hints on diagnosis & r&r?

Thanks,

-John

GM-Tech · October 2, 2005

Crawl underneath and look really close at each bearing cap on each joint, right where the cap and the seal on the open end of it is. Usually, you'll see rust all around the cap that is dry and making the noise.

The noise you describe does sound like a u-joint and we see them failed now and then on trucks, even ones newer than yours.

Bish · October 3, 2005

Universal Joints. Should be 2 of them.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bish,

Thanks for the reply. Have you personally had these go bad on your 01 Tahoe? If so, how many miles were on the vehicle when you replaced one/both of them? Can you give me any information on how to pin-point if the U-joints are indeed the culprit and if you know the amount of difficulty that is involved with changing them.........Any tips or helpful hints on diagnosis & r&r?

Thanks,

-John

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I replaced mine at about 115K. They were not squeaking. I pulled the cap off the one rear one when I had my driveshaft out. I did not like what I saw (dry needle bearings) so I decided to just replace them both.

It's all about the tools when replacing. The best method is a press. I used a 10 ton press. Alternatively, you can use large sockets and a BIG vise. Lastly, you could bring your driveshaft to a machine shop and I bet they would swap them for less than $20 or possibly a case of beer

I suggest replacing them with a greeaseable heavy duty unit.

Elwood 2000 · October 3, 2005

You could also lay under the Suburban on a creeper, hang on to the frame rails and have the wife drive down the highway while you made your inspection!

JLeosnow · October 3, 2005

Universal Joints. Should be 2 of them.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bish,

Thanks for the reply. Have you personally had these go bad on your 01 Tahoe? If so, how many miles were on the vehicle when you replaced one/both of them? Can you give me any information on how to pin-point if the U-joints are indeed the culprit and if you know the amount of difficulty that is involved with changing them.........Any tips or helpful hints on diagnosis & r&r?

Thanks,

-John

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I replaced mine at about 115K. They were not squeaking. I pulled the cap off the one rear one when I had my driveshaft out. I did not like what I saw (dry needle bearings) so I decided to just replace them both.

It's all about the tools when replacing. The best method is a press. I used a 10 ton press. Alternatively, you can use large sockets and a BIG vise. Lastly, you could bring your driveshaft to a machine shop and I bet they would swap them for less than $20 or possibly a case of beer

I suggest replacing them with a greeaseable heavy duty unit.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bish,

Do you know the part# for the direct fit greasable HD replacement? I'm not certain that I will go this route since the original(s) lasted 150,000 miles but I would like to know the part#/price so all the facts are know ahead of time and can make a decision on which to go with......

Thanks,

-John

JLeosnow · October 3, 2005

Crawl underneath and look really close at each bearing cap on each joint, right where the cap and the seal on the open end of it is. Usually, you'll see rust all around the cap that is dry and making the noise.

The noise you describe does sound like a u-joint and we see them failed now and then on trucks, even ones newer than yours.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the helpful information GM-Tech!

-John

JLeosnow · October 3, 2005

You could also lay under the Suburban on a creeper, hang on to the frame rails and have the wife drive down the highway while you made your inspection!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

LOL!

-John

Bish · October 3, 2005

Universal Joints. Should be 2 of them.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bish,

Thanks for the reply. Have you personally had these go bad on your 01 Tahoe? If so, how many miles were on the vehicle when you replaced one/both of them? Can you give me any information on how to pin-point if the U-joints are indeed the culprit and if you know the amount of difficulty that is involved with changing them.........Any tips or helpful hints on diagnosis & r&r?

Thanks,

-John

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I replaced mine at about 115K. They were not squeaking. I pulled the cap off the one rear one when I had my driveshaft out. I did not like what I saw (dry needle bearings) so I decided to just replace them both.

It's all about the tools when replacing. The best method is a press. I used a 10 ton press. Alternatively, you can use large sockets and a BIG vise. Lastly, you could bring your driveshaft to a machine shop and I bet they would swap them for less than $20 or possibly a case of beer

I suggest replacing them with a greeaseable heavy duty unit.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bish,

Do you know the part# for the direct fit greasable HD replacement? I'm not certain that I will go this route since the original(s) lasted 150,000 miles but I would like to know the part#/price so all the facts are know ahead of time and can make a decision on which to go with......

Thanks,

-John

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Don't have a part number but I bought then at my local Napa. THey had regular duty non-greaseable and heavy duty greaseable. I think the price difference was around $8. No reason not to go with greaseable IMO. I give them a shot or two every other oil change and figure they should last long after I get rid of the truck.

JLeosnow · October 3, 2005

Universal Joints. Should be 2 of them.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bish,

Thanks for the reply. Have you personally had these go bad on your 01 Tahoe? If so, how many miles were on the vehicle when you replaced one/both of them? Can you give me any information on how to pin-point if the U-joints are indeed the culprit and if you know the amount of difficulty that is involved with changing them.........Any tips or helpful hints on diagnosis & r&r?

Thanks,

-John

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I replaced mine at about 115K. They were not squeaking. I pulled the cap off the one rear one when I had my driveshaft out. I did not like what I saw (dry needle bearings) so I decided to just replace them both.

It's all about the tools when replacing. The best method is a press. I used a 10 ton press. Alternatively, you can use large sockets and a BIG vise. Lastly, you could bring your driveshaft to a machine shop and I bet they would swap them for less than $20 or possibly a case of beer

I suggest replacing them with a greeaseable heavy duty unit.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bish,

Do you know the part# for the direct fit greasable HD replacement? I'm not certain that I will go this route since the original(s) lasted 150,000 miles but I would like to know the part#/price so all the facts are know ahead of time and can make a decision on which to go with......

Thanks,

-John

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Don't have a part number but I bought then at my local Napa. THey had regular duty non-greaseable and heavy duty greaseable. I think the price difference was around $8. No reason not to go with greaseable IMO. I give them a shot or two every other oil change and figure they should last long after I get rid of the truck.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bish,

How many miles were on your Tahoe when you replaced them?

Thanks,

-John

Bish · October 3, 2005

Bish,

How many miles were on your Tahoe when you replaced them?

Thanks,

-John

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

About 115K. When I removed the old ones, ALL of them were pretty much dry and rusting so they probably should have been replaced much sooner. Never was a fan of the sealed units. Similar to front end components...the sealed non-greaseable ones may be cheaper for the manufacturer but if you grease greaseable components regularly, they should wear much longer. I got 145K out of my ball joints and many have theirs fail under 75K. I grease mine every 5k to 10k.