Routine Maintenance

[woyster_00z71]

I've got some routine maintenance items coming up pretty quickly and just wanted to know what I should expect.  The truck is a 1997 C1500 with the Vortec 305.  85,000 miles.  Oil changed every 3,000 miles with Penzoil 10W-30 and an AC-Delco filter.  Never had a tune-up, coolant change, differential fluid change, or the like.  Just need to know what needs done, what parts need replaced, what brands of stuff are recommened to use, and briefly what is involved in performing the maintenance item.

 

1. Coolant flush - I know I need to use the Dex-cool stuff but what all is involved?  Is one brand of Dex-cool any better than the next or is it all made by Texaco/Halvoline?

2. Tune-up - Getting close to the 100,000 mark.  What all needs changed?  I know plugs and wires.  What else needs done?  What brand plugs, wires, etc?

3. Transmission - Got a new one put in at 45,000...currently at 85,000.  What needs done?  Just fluid and filter or more?  How difficult a job is this to do-it-yourself?  Weights, brands, etc?

4. Differential - Lubricant change...weights, brands, additives?  Anything else need done to the diff?

 

Anything else that I have left out that might be due for some routine maintenance?  I want this truck to last for many more years and even more miles.  Currently I put about 1,000 miles per week on it (all highway miles) so the 100,000 mark is quickly approaching.

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

B.J.

[Heavy Cruiser]

The first place I'd check would be the owners manual and look at the maintainence schedule for "A". Schedule B, I think, is for towing/heavy/dusty conditions. Look through the chart and check the ones missed and do those.

 

With the engine hot, take a vacuum gauge and read manifold vacuum, is it steady? if it is, then spray the gasket area, where the manifold meets the head, with carb cleaner and check for leaks by spraying the gasket and listening to the engine for smoothing out. If it does, you might consider manifold gasket replacement when doing coolant change.

 

1. Dexcool - yes, made by Texaco, must use again after flush. If reular antifreeze used, the new mixture will gel. Just be sure to try and remove both block drain plugs, right above the oil an rail, remove the thermostat, and flush both sides with fresh water. remove bottom radiator hose from radiator, and flush radiator. Install new thermostat, gasket, coolant anf heater hoses and clamps, belts.

2.Tune-up - along with plugs and wires, don't forget distrubutor cap and rotor as well. While the plugs are out, do a compression check of the cylinders to see how well the combustion chambers are, all readings taken should be within 10% overall from the highest to the lowest. Change engine oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, crankcase filter ( in the air cleaner), PCV valve, Check all vacuum lines for cracks, if some are found, replace hose(s). Check looseness of throttle shaft in throttle body unit, if excessive, you might want ot consider replacing it, but only as a last resort.

3. A/T - drop the pan, change the filter, add clean oil, DEXRON III, I believe. If you want, remove the upper oil line on radiator, connect a hose to the radiator oil cooler and the other end of the hose into the drain pan. Requires another person to hold or start/stop the truck. Start engine up, when bubbles appear, turn off engine, add more A/T oil, start engine, let the transmission oil pump pump clean oil through tthe convertor, do this until oil from the cooler is clean, replace oil return line back onto radiator and fill trans with oil, check level again after oil is up to operating temperature, if a half a quart above full mark, that's fine. Or take to shop and have them change filter and do the Bilstein oil change trick.

4. - check manual for lube weight, some use amsoil or another synthetic.I'd probably use dino oil. Grease all joints on driveshaft and front axle, if equipped with zerks. Lube door hinges, door locks, hood hinges, anything on a hinge/slide. Clean battery cables, replace if too corroded. Remove all grounds you can see and wire brush the joints and the terminals, apply grease to joints.

 

Check front tires for incorrect wear, might need to change the control arm bushings at a later date. Check the center support bearing for the driveshaft, if broken, replace. Check brakes, if low pad/shoe, change out. Might consider a shop to do a presurized bleeding to brake system to remove all brake fluid from system, maybe change those three brakes hoses before doing this or at the same time.

 

I think this is enough for now, others here will have some good ideas...

[bassdog]

My $.02 worth

 

Dexcool - don't waste your money, this is suppose to be good for 150,000 miles, check your owners manual on this.

 

Tune-up - Plugs, wires, cap, rotor : unless you want to "up" performance a little, stick with ACDelco parts here. Grab the rotor, cap, and wires at your dealer. Plugs can be found at most auto parts stores. Everything else Heavycruiser said...

 

Tranny - again Heavycruiser has hit the nail on the head. My addition : you can take this to a Jiffy Lube type shop or your dealer and have your tranny completely flushed my having them hook it up to a machine and getting ALL the old fluid out. This is a bit costly, I think it's worth it. This could also be the time to switch all your fluids to synthetic.

 

Diffs - see Heavycruisers post  ;)

[woyster_00z71]

Thanks for the input!  I'm sure it will come in handy.

 

In addition to the above, what (if anything) can be done to improve the gas mileage?  Would different spark plugs, etc help anything?  Any ideas?

 

Thanks, B.J.

[bassdog]

A tune-up in general should show some gas mileage improvement. I use AC Delco Rapid Fires, they're suppose to be good and idle a bit smoother.

 

At 85,000 miles, parts are getting worn and old, the new parts you put in will make a difference.

 

Did I see air filter mentioned? HP and gas mileage can be improved by adding a K&N filter...plain drop-in or FIPK type.

[Heavy Cruiser]

One item I did forget to mention during the compression testing, check the stretch of the timing chain for the camshaft. Grab ahold of the harmonic balancer and rotate from side-to-side and check for number of degrees of slack. If more than 8 degrees of slack, I'd figure on replacing the chain and sprockets while there is no coolant in block.

 

This would bring camshaft timing back to original as if the engine were new, this would definately  be a fuel saver, and power enhancer to a certain point. I've seen chains last 60K miles before needing replacement.

 

Save fuel? Lose weight!  

[fixer]

Just need to know what needs done, what parts need replaced, what brands of stuff are recommened to use, and briefly what is involved in performing the maintenance item.

 

Flush cooling system

 

Fuel Filter

 

Change Transmission fluid

 

Change spark plugs

 

Change wires if needed

 

Change diff fluid

[gilbo]

might as well change your radiator hoses we'll u r at it, and thermostat, serpentine belt