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1995 Sub w/5.7

Suburban Guy

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Suburban Guy Enthusiast

Suburban Guy

Posted
Posted

All-

 

I'm considering a new cam for my Sub (manifold, spacer etc) and want to see if i'm going to need to rechip the ECM.

 

The cam is a Comp Cam 12-206-2 (212/212. .440 .440 lift, 110 degree cam lobe) set straight up ( no degree'ing ). Thoughts? Warnings???

 

Also,

 

I'm going to pull the motor so I'm wondering if there are any special needs or tools or heads up warnings?

 

I've pulled plenty of engines over the years but am looking at this as a more cautious technician and not the race engine swap of yesteryear....

 

Thanks all..

 

SG

  • 1 month later...
AmericanMuscle Enthusiast

AmericanMuscle

Posted
Posted
All-

 

I'm considering a new cam for my Sub (manifold, spacer etc) and want to see if i'm going to need to rechip the ECM.

 

The cam is a Comp Cam 12-206-2 (212/212. .440 .440 lift, 110 degree cam lobe) set straight up ( no degree'ing ). Thoughts? Warnings???

 

Also,

 

I'm going to pull the motor so I'm wondering if there are any special needs or tools or heads up warnings? 

 

I've pulled plenty of engines over the years but am looking at this as a more cautious technician and not the race engine swap of yesteryear....

 

Thanks all..

 

SG

 

 

 

 

I honestly think if you don't touch the heads, your cam isn't going to add very much power. The factory small block TBI heads don't flow well at all. I'd consider swapping Vortec heads and Vortec/TBI intake on there while your doing it.

 

Your cam choice doesn't sound bad, but you may consider a little more duration on the exhaust side (especially if you use Vortec heads).

 

I would definitely get your truck tuned. I had about a 208/215 duration cam in my TBI 350 and it wouldn't run well at all on the stock tuning. The computer sensed something was wrong and would run it really, really rich (it smoked like a late-80's camaro - black smoke though). Your idle will have to be raised a little bit and the factory tuning will definitely not take advantage of the new power.

 

As far as tricky things, I really don't remember anything being very hard to swap in mine. My truck was 4wd and trying to get the oil pan off working through the 4wd system I remember wasn't all that fun. I didn't get the oil pan gasket to seal right the first time I did it. I remember having to redo that. There are some powdered metal "quick connect" fittings that route oil lines to the oil filter housing. Those things are garbage. I broke one and repaired it during the install. The other one broke soon after I put the engine together, broke it in, and took it on a test drive. Fortunately someone behind me stopped me and said I was pouring oil out the bottom of my truck!

 

Other than that, just make sure you sand the "china walls" good before you put your intake manifold back on and lay down a good bead of silicone. I hate having to repull an intake when those don't seal.

 

Otherwise, just remember you engine has a hydraulic cam in it. It's not a roller cam though. I changed mine over to a roller cam and used an aftermarket timing chain for a TPI 350 (those had roller cams).

 

I could go on forever. If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask!

 

Take care,

Steve

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