Jump to content

1999 S-10 Dash Lights Not Working

Wilmero

By Wilmero
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

Wilmero Enthusiast

Wilmero

Posted
Posted

Hello, I'm glad I found this forum, and thanks to anyone who may be able to help me out. Heres my problem:

 

First off, I should add that I had a shop install an in-dash dvd player/stereo. I noticed a few months later that my instrument cluster lights and my climate control lights do not work. So basicly, my cab is dark inside at night except for the stereo screen and the digital odometer. I should also add that the ashtray light works, as well as the dome light, but the dome light cannot be turned on manualy, I have to open the door for it to go on, and then I can't turn it off with that little accesory button by the manual light switch on the left side. Also, the interior lights don't come on with the manual swittch either. So...pretty much, my lights don't work in the cab. Where should I begin to look? I checked the fuses..under the hood and on the side of the dash...all seem to be good. Is there something else I can try? It sucks to drive at night because I can't see my guages, or my heater controls... Good thing my headlights at least work! Any suggestions would be helpful... did a ground come loose somewhere or something?

Wilmero Enthusiast

Wilmero

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sounds like dimmer switch, I had a similar problem as did another poster not too long ago...

 

 

 

 

Is there a way I can check the switch? I am not too electircally inclined. I hope I don't have to buy another switch to test it.

Wilmero Enthusiast

Wilmero

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sounds like dimmer switch, I had a similar problem as did another poster not too long ago...

 

 

 

 

Is there a way I can check the switch? I am not too electircally inclined. I hope I don't have to buy another switch to test it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maybe I should have put this in the s-series forum... :seeya:

GM-Tech Senior Enthusiast

GM-Tech

Posted
Posted
Maybe I should have put this in the s-series forum... :seeya:

 

I can probably help, I just haven't had the time to sit down and look at the schematics for your vehicle and I don't want to spout off without knowing exactly what I'm talking about. There's nothing common that I could say, oh yeah, your problem is...

 

 

I'll try to look this afternoon, if not, then tomorrow.

Wilmero Enthusiast

Wilmero

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Maybe I should have put this in the s-series forum... :D

 

I can probably help, I just haven't had the time to sit down and look at the schematics for your vehicle and I don't want to spout off without knowing exactly what I'm talking about. There's nothing common that I could say, oh yeah, your problem is...

 

 

I'll try to look this afternoon, if not, then tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

Thank You very much GM-Tech! I can wait till tomorrow or next week! Anything to save money on the outageous electrical diagnostic costs...possibly only to find out it's only a 30 dollar fix. :seeya:

GM-Tech Senior Enthusiast

GM-Tech

Posted
Posted

Okay, I took a quick look. First of all, is it safe to assume your taillights, front park lights work?

 

If yes, then power from the park fuse is getting to the headlamp switch. This is important because this is where the dimmer for the interior dash, a/c control, etc., lighting gets power.

 

In the IP fuse block, there's a fuse labeled ILLUM. Put your headlights on, turn the dimmer to the brightest setting and see if you have power in and out of this fuse. If only one side has power, the fuse is blown. If neither side has power, the dimmer in the headlamp switch is not supplying power and you probably have a bad headlamp switch.

 

The lights in the various door switches (windows, locks, mirror) get their power from another direction and would not be affected by a dimmer problem.

 

Start there and if we need to go further, let me know.

Wilmero Enthusiast

Wilmero

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Okay, I took a quick look.  First of all, is it safe to assume your taillights, front park lights work?

 

If yes, then power from the park fuse is getting to the headlamp switch.  This is important because this is where the dimmer for the interior dash, a/c control, etc., lighting gets power.

 

In the IP fuse block, there's a fuse labeled ILLUM.   Put your headlights on, turn the dimmer to the brightest setting and see if you have power  in and out of this fuse.  If only one side has power, the fuse is blown.  If neither side has power, the dimmer in the headlamp switch is not supplying power and you probably have a bad headlamp switch.

 

The lights in the various door switches (windows, locks, mirror) get their power from another direction and would not be affected by a dimmer problem.

 

Start there and if we need to go further, let me know.

 

 

 

 

Yes, the headlights DTRL Parking lights, and tail lights work, The IP fuse box is the one on the side of the dash right? Or is is the one under the hood?

GM-Tech Senior Enthusiast

GM-Tech

Posted
Posted
The IP fuse box is the one on the side of the dash right? Or is is the one under the hood?

 

IP = Instrument Panel, so yes, it's the fuse box there.

Wilmero Enthusiast

Wilmero

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The IP fuse box is the one on the side of the dash right? Or is is the one under the hood?

 

IP = Instrument Panel, so yes, it's the fuse box there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Right On GM-Tech! I did as you asked and found that there was no power going to the switch, so then I proceeded to disassemble the dash bezel and found that the entire switch was "Unplugged"! So I plugged er in and Voila! I now have power back to all instruments! Thank You for your advise and patience. All Is well with the S-10 now.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 348 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By newdude · Posted

      This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • newdude
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By newdude · Posted

      2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Coastie05
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Go back to OEM wheels. 
    • newdude
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By newdude · Posted

      Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...