Jump to content

99 GMC 2500 7.4 PICKUP


RACECAR

Recommended Posts

Posted

Wonder if someone can help? I have a 1999 gmc pickup with a 454 came from Colorado it was a state truck very well maintaned vin 1GTGK24J2XFO18935 in the glove box is the tag with the RPO numbers at the top is the vin directly across is TK20903 THE UNDERNEATH ARE THE CODES which i no what most of them are is the TK20903 THE ENGINE NUMBER? i looked on the block and the number there is T1012XDH i no T is Tonawanda is this a replacement engine number? if so what is XDH 1012 is month and year? i asked my Chevy parts guy about a vin check he said he would only find warranty work done? THANKS VERY MUCH IF ANYONE REPLIES.

Posted

I looked up your VIN on GM's database and it appears that's the original engine based on the XDH in the code on the engine. That's what the build information says the code of the engine is. A replacement engine wouldn't have that.

Posted
I looked up your VIN on GM's database and it appears that's the original engine based on the XDH in the code on the engine.  That's what the build information says the code of the engine is.  A replacement engine wouldn't have that.

 

 

 

The engine pad just looks strange and it looked as tho the hood was off the truck unless it was rebuilt and decked and the number re stamped, anyway if it is T1012DXH we no T is Tonawanda DXH? 1012 month day year? should be a 98 or 99 block?

Posted

The engine identification number is located on the right front side of the engine block. The engine identification number gives specific information about the assembly of the engine. If reading the identification number from the left the following information can be obtained:

 

The first digit identifies the plant code.

The second and third digits give the month of the engine build.

The fourth and fifth digits describe the date of engine build.

The sixth, seventh, eighth digits give the engine broadcast code.

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Derivative is located on the left rear side of the engine block (2) and is a nine digit number stamped or laser etched onto the engine at the vehicle assembly plant. If reading the identification number from the left the following information can be obtained:

 

The first digit identifies the division.

The second digit identifies the model year.

The third digit identifies the assembly plant.

The fourth through ninth digits are the last six digits of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Engine Verification Label

 

The engine verification label is placed in two locations on the right side of the engine.

 

On the back of the valve rocker arm cover

On the side of the oil pan

 

The engine verification label displays the bar code and the broadcast code that identifies the engine RPO, transmission RPO and other component RPOs that the engine includes and excludes.

Posted
The engine identification number is located on the right front side of the engine block. The engine identification number gives specific information about the assembly of the engine. If reading the identification number from the left the following information can be obtained:

 

The first digit identifies the plant code.

The second and third digits give the month of the engine build.

The fourth and fifth digits describe the date of engine build.

The sixth, seventh, eighth digits give the engine broadcast code.

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Derivative is located on the left rear side of the engine block (2) and is a nine digit number stamped or laser etched onto the engine at the vehicle assembly plant. If reading the identification number from the left the following information can be obtained:

 

The first digit identifies the division.

The second digit identifies the model year.

The third digit identifies the assembly plant.

The fourth through ninth digits are the last six digits of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Engine Verification Label

 

The engine verification label is placed in two locations on the right side of the engine.

 

On the back of the valve rocker arm cover

On the side of the oil pan

 

The engine verification label displays the bar code and the broadcast code that identifies the engine RPO, transmission RPO and other component RPOs that the engine includes and excludes.

 

 

 

Thanks alot for taking the time to post this info.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
    • Very often the part number on the trim part is just for the vendor order/assembly plant and will not show up in the parts system.  They won't make a bunch of extra parts that were not ordered. Keep in mind, lots of these parts were made to be "just in time" parts meaning they were dedicated to a vehicles ordered and sequenced for assembly.       Also, trim parts will often say, paint to match.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...