Jump to content

replaced the ignition switch.. still no worky


Recommended Posts

Posted

I tested the old ignition switch.. it was bad... bought the new switch for $160 :lol:

 

the new switch tests out fine but my starter still will not turn over (my original problem)... I have no power going to the selenoid in crank position..

 

I even brought my 2 month old battery in to have it tested.. works fine.

 

checked all fuses... Swapped the starter relay with the RR defogger relay.. still doesnt work... after putting in the new ignition switch i do hear a relay Labeled RAP1 clicking in the dirver fuse panel... dont know why this is

 

It would seem hard to belive that the Neutral/position switch would blow at the same time as the ignition switch... im just thinking that cant be it... but its the only thing left in the ignition circuit .. and a pain in the ass to get to and test :crazy:

 

Do i need to reset the computer? Ive been trying to get this thing working for 1 week :tear:

 

Please help me :jester:

Posted

Did you try messing with your shifter? It might be the park/neutral cutout switch. Turn the key and while turned wiggle the shifter or try neutral instead of park.

Posted

went to test the neutral/position switch under the car... and was pulling on the connections so hard because GM put soo much dielectric grease or something that got hard in between the conntcion.. the plastic broke off the neutral switch... so I had to go pick a neutral switch $60...

 

 

Still doesnt work... I just about replaced everything in the starter/ignition circuit circuit...

 

i tested at the connection plug into the neutral switch and it has juice and good ground

 

 

this is getting insane! :cheers::banghead::banghead:

Posted

will it turn over if you use a screwdriver to jump the terminals on the starter? It almost sounds like you have a bad connection fron the hot on the starter to the interior wiring harness. GM used to use a fusible link from the hot terminal on the starter to the interior.

 

I had a olds that would not start and turned out to be that same thing. Just a thought.

Posted

I have a Haynes manual for my 2000 silverado, but I think your tahoe should be about the same. When you say you have no power to the solenoid, is it a purple wire from the start relay, or the big red wire from the battery?

 

 

I see 3 fuses, there is a 10 amp fuse in the left bus electrical center marked "crank fuse" it's 10 amps.

 

There's a 20 amp fuse marked Ign C in the underhood center and one also marked Ign A which is also 20 amps.

 

It looks as thought he ac compressor clutch relay is they same type in my diagram, you could try swapping that one too. (I don't have a rr defog, but it could be the same too, I just don't have it in my diagram).

 

Do you by chance have a remote start system on this?

Posted

hey thanks for the replies guys!

 

 

 

 

Well... I have finally got this thing running after 7 days.. i cant believe it.

 

 

 

I still dont what exactly caused this problem...or what fixed it... but heres the breakdown of events.

 

 

Car doesnt crank at all... although full power light..etc.

 

I test ignition switch... and it doesnt pass continuity test.. so i replace it.

 

still no juice being sent to purple wire to starter in crank position.

 

i then check neutral position switch and break it in the process.. so i have to replace it.

 

after I replace it it still wont crank... but I am now getting juice to purple wire on starter.

 

 

 

I then pull the starter out and bench test it.... works fine.... So that means bad connetction with the starter grounding or on the selenoid posts... clean then up a little bit... bolt her back up and she starts!!!!

 

 

:cheers:

 

:banghead:

Posted

Glad you got it figured out. Maybe you had 2 problems, the neutral safety switch and the starter.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...