Va2500HD Posted May 5, 2006 Posted May 5, 2006 Well, cranked t-bars the other day. Measured at bottom center of fenders my starting heights were: lf 38 1/8" rf 39 lr 41 rr 41 1/8 After cranking lf 40 1/4 rf 40 1/4 lr 41 1/4 rr 40 7/8 4 turns on right tb and 10 turns on left I also replaced crap stock shocks with Bilstein 5100's. Stocker's were a joke. New shocks are great and should have been done way sooner. Also got an alignment. Starting measurements were: lf camber -.2 degrees, caster 2.3 deg, toe .37 deg rf camber .5 deg, caster 2.3 deg, toe .44 deg total toe .81 deg steer ahead -.03 deg current: lf cam .4 deg, cas 3.4 deg, toe .05 deg rf cam .5 deg, cas 3.4 deg, toe .03 deg total toe .08 deg steer .01 deg Needless to say alignment and caster adjustment were much needed. All for $100.
mmmikkke Posted May 5, 2006 Posted May 5, 2006 Wow, that's precision. Kudos to your alignment guy for giving you the details. In my opinion, Greg, you should be a little suspicious about your rear suspension given the fact that you had to crank the left side so much more than the right side. If your truck's rear springs are uneven, and it took cranking those extra turns to on the t-bars to compensate for it, you should be able to stand way back behind your truck and notice any resulting twisting in the box by comparing the top edge of the tailgate with the top edge of the front of the box. If the box is not twisted--if the top edges of the front and back of the box line up perfectly--then you're good to go! On the other hand, if you detect some twist in your box, then the rear springs are not the same height and your front springs are compensating for them, and your handling will suffer, as will your braking.
Va2500HD Posted May 6, 2006 Author Posted May 6, 2006 Thanks for the head's up Mike. I'll check for twisting. My lr did go up 1/4" and rr went down 1/4". I have probably almost half a bolt left on the left tb and more than that on the right. Yeah I was glad to get the before/after printout with the alignment. Something about having hard numbers. Easy for the shop with the computer doing the work.
Supercop8100 Posted May 6, 2006 Posted May 6, 2006 I cranked mine up to level with roughly the same numbers as yours and then had the alignment. The alignment numbers were perfect. Didnt need any adjustment.
Supercop8100 Posted May 9, 2006 Posted May 9, 2006 Nope. But trust me, it looks helluva lot better.....
Mgreathouse77 Posted May 12, 2006 Posted May 12, 2006 Nope. But trust me, it looks helluva lot better..... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Did your ride quality or handeling suffer at all? I've heard cranking the t-bars makes the ride horrible
Va2500HD Posted May 15, 2006 Author Posted May 15, 2006 I cranked t-bars but also added Bilsteins and new 285 Revo's (from 265's) on all four corners. The net difference is a better ride.
ridge Posted May 15, 2006 Posted May 15, 2006 Did you add stock length Bilsteins or did you go with a longer one?
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