Jump to content

Dual Exhaust

BigBlueV8

Recommended Posts

BigBlueV8 Enthusiast

BigBlueV8

Posted
Posted

Hey guys new to the forum. I have a question about the exhaust on my 1990 GMC Sierra 1500. I have Vortex cherry bomb mufflers on it right now with dynomax headers with 2.5" diamater pipe with no catalytic converters. But I have decided to take the Vortex off cause they are just to loud and don't have a good sound to them. I have just ordered 2 flowmaster 40 series 2 chamber mufflers and was wondering how you guys think this will sound and if you think and x pipe or h pipe will be needed. Thanks for your input.

SnakeEyeSS Senior Enthusiast

SnakeEyeSS

Posted
Posted

from what I have heard from everyone that knows more than squat, YES! It makes sense to me to put an X on, better flow

Shaners Senior Enthusiast

Shaners

Posted
Posted

A crossover pipe will balance the the banks on the motor.  It will help your truck run smoother and will more than likely generate a little more power.  It will also take away some of the "raspy" sound of the straight duals.

 

I don't know for sure, but I would want the "x" or "H" pipe in front of the mufflers a few feet.  That is the location I've seen most of them put...

SnakeEyeSS Senior Enthusiast

SnakeEyeSS

Posted
Posted

I think in between(the cat and muffler) where the pipes would be straight normally, from what I have seen in magazine's.

MarkD Senior Enthusiast

MarkD

Posted
Posted

Reviews I have seen recommend the X pipe over the H pipe for torque.  Yes, it will change the sound.  I would best describe it as Mellow-er.  I was told to put one as early (in the exhaust path) as possible without adding much bending to the system to reach the X.

BigBlueV8 Enthusiast

BigBlueV8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No taking off the cat did not mess with my o2 sensor. the truck only has one which was on the driver side manifold and the dynomax headers that i purchased had a threaded hole for the o2 sensor.

BuckMaster Enthusiast

BuckMaster

Posted
Posted

Having an engineering background I do agree with the comments about x/h pipes balancing the engine's backpressure but I am hard pressed to believe that there would be any significant increase in hp or mpg.  The guys at my local muffler shop also agree.  I personally do not have the cross pipe.  I have searched on different forums and have yet to see dyno results of before and after.  It's all been speculation from what I've seen.

BigBlueV8 Enthusiast

BigBlueV8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I installed the flows without an h pipe or x pipe and they are pretty loud. I am thinking of installing a flowmaster h pipe kit just to quiet it down a bit.

BuckMaster Enthusiast

BuckMaster

Posted
Posted
Well I installed the flows without an h pipe or x pipe and they are pretty loud. I am thinking of installing a flowmaster h pipe kit just to quiet it down a bit.

BigBlueV8, let me know if it quietens down the tone any when you put in your x pipe, I may want to do the same,  just message/email me.

 

tks

GREGGO Enthusiast

GREGGO

Posted
Posted

Here is mine: ASM long tube headers; stock cats,;semi stock Y pipe; 2.5" cutouts (not in pics here); 2.5" pipes; 2.5" Magnaflow X pipe; 2- Magnaflow 1 in /1 out mufflers; dumps. This set-up is amazingly quiet until you want to get on it. This whole thing is queiter than my old complete stock front end with a Dynomax 1 in /2 out Ultraflo Welded muffler.

7594930.jpg

7594950.jpg

BuckMaster Enthusiast

BuckMaster

Posted
Posted
Ok, here is the cutouts that were put on later:

cutout.jpg

 

Greg

Cool!

Where did you get the cut outs?

I see the wingnuts, can just hand tightening seal them completly?

What kind of gasket is that under the plate?

GREGGO Enthusiast

GREGGO

Posted
Posted

I got them at MTI, but Tbyrne (great to deal with BTW ) should be able to get them also. The gaskets re standard paper and will tear up over time, but they seal good enough. I wil be going with a differant type in the future, I'll let people know. I am looking into a brand of gasket we use at work to see if I can get the size I need.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had manager to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
    • revmanii
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By revmanii · Posted

      PS: Here's pic of the 2014 wheels I'd like to run when it's not winter. Stuck my finger around new wheel caliper setup. Very little clearance. I suspect these won't fit, but won't know for sure till I try.   Edit: And my first mod. Stubby antenna from the old truck.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...