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Power Window Stuck

DEV1ST8R

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DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
Posted

. . . So I dropped off some letters at a mail drop-box, went to close the window and only heard a *click* I've never had ANY trouble with the window, switch or motor before today. The passenger-side works normal. When I press the button to lower the window, i can hear a grinding sound from inside the door and it continues to run until I press the button to close the window. I was able to manually pull the window up, but with a little pressure it slides back down.

 

Any tips or advice on fixing this? Why would it just die all of the sudden, with no problems before today?

 

I just hit 100k and I hope this is not signs of things to come. . . :driving:

HuskieMobileMan Enthusiast

HuskieMobileMan

Posted
Posted

Sounds like the window motor is not aligned correctly with the mechanism to open or close the window. Take the door panel off and take a look at what you can see or feel. It sounds like the motor is functioning properly assuming you have an auto open feature on the window. Sounds like you may have a loose bolt. Good luck.

DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well. . .I tore the driver-side door apart, yanked the window motor out and found that the wire cables were tangled up and frayed - and I'm guessing one end of the cable separated from something. I tried piecing the cable and motor back together, but that ain't happening. So this would mean that the regulator is shot, correct? The local shop quoted me $280.00 for part/labor. After I split my finger open on the glass of the bottom of the window, I said #$%&-it, I'm gonna pay a professional to do this before I start losing appendages.

 

Soo, just out of curiosity, is it difficult to replace a regulator?

Perry Enthusiast

Perry

Posted
Posted

This seems to be a common problem with these trucks. The same thing happened to me a couple years ago on my '02. The cable was frayed so the window would go down but not up, but the regulator and everything else worked fine. I couldn't buy just the cable. I would have to buy the whole setup (cables, brackets, etc), you could find some on eBay for around $50. Me personally, I refused to pay $50 for one little cable so I went a different way. I think if its just the regulator you can find that at a dealership, or eBay, not sure how much.

2kwolfgang Enthusiast

2kwolfgang

Posted
Posted

The cable on my 99 Sierra snapped on me back in February, I finally got around to fixing it last week on Friday since summer is here I would like to be able to use the driverside window. I went to a local reputable salvage yard and got the full track assembly with window regulator etc..etc.. from an 02 Tahoe. Went over to my buddies house and we had the old track out and the new one in in about 25 minutes. It's actually a fairly simple part to replace. Just make sure when you disconnect the old track from the window that you have your glass well taped around the top of your door so it doesn't fall down and break. Only tools you will really need is a socket set and a perhaps a small screwdriver to help pop the clips off of your window control module. I also hit up the door lock mechanism and the new track with some white grease just to make it run smoother.

 

 

 

The used track from the tahoe cost me $110 with a full lifetime parts replacement warrantey. You can find full track assemblys on ebay for around $40 or $50 but they are aftermarket made in China junk parts.

DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info guys. So basically, without going to a junk yard or eBay, a new regulator will come with the new wire cable and everything I need to hook it back up?

2kwolfgang Enthusiast

2kwolfgang

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the info guys.  So basically, without going to a junk yard or eBay, a new regulator will come with the new wire cable and everything I need to hook it back up?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm actually not 100% sure about that as I bought the whole assembly. My friend called around and got quotes of up to $400 to fix it so that's why I did it myself. If your even a semi-mechanically inclined person you should have no problem. Even, if you can find just the wire or the wire and regulator you may find it more of a hassle then just buying the whole thing and bolting it in.

 

 

Let us know how it turns out.

timmy23 Enthusiast

timmy23

Posted
Posted

I just replaced my drivers and passengers for $100. I got them on e-bay and it was the complete window system. Just unbolt the tracks and unplug the motor, it took me about 45 minutes to do both doors.

DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I just replaced my drivers and passengers for $100. I got them on e-bay and it was the complete window system. Just unbolt the tracks and unplug the motor, it took me about 45 minutes to do both doors.

 

 

 

 

timmy23, can you get me a link to the auction page of the item you bought? After you remove the interior door panel, do you also have to remove the inside metal panel as well, to get to the tracks?

 

THANKS MAN!

 

:driving:

2kwolfgang Enthusiast

2kwolfgang

Posted
Posted
I just replaced my drivers and passengers for $100. I got them on e-bay and it was the complete window system. Just unbolt the tracks and unplug the motor, it took me about 45 minutes to do both doors.

 

 

 

 

timmy23, can you get me a link to the auction page of the item you bought? After you remove the interior door panel, do you also have to remove the inside metal panel as well, to get to the tracks?

 

THANKS MAN!

 

:)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No, the tracks are easily accessable from the large hole in the bottom of the door. Once you unbolt them they fold right up like a kite and you can easily slide them out.

DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Awesome! Y'all saved me about $250, because I was about to take it to a shop who was going to get the part from the dealership and charge me about $288 to do it all.

 

T H A N K S !

 

:)

2kwolfgang Enthusiast

2kwolfgang

Posted
Posted

No problem. Remember to put your window all the way up when you do it and use lot's of tape to make sure it won't fall down while you take the track out. I wrapped the tape all the way up over the top of my door when I did it.

DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
  • Author
Posted
No problem. Remember to put your window all the way up when you do it and use lot's of tape to make sure it won't fall down while you take the track out. I wrapped the tape all the way up over the top of my door when I did it.

 

 

 

 

Will do! I'm assuming the tracks come un-lubricated. What did you use? And just apply it the whole length of the inside of the tracks?

2kwolfgang Enthusiast

2kwolfgang

Posted
Posted
No problem. Remember to put your window all the way up when you do it and use lot's of tape to make sure it won't fall down while you take the track out. I wrapped the tape all the way up over the top of my door when I did it.

 

 

 

 

Will do! I'm assuming the tracks come un-lubricated. What did you use? And just apply it the whole length of the inside of the tracks?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mine was used from an 02 Tahoe so there was still some lubrication on it. My buddy had a spray can of "white grease" so I put some of that on there. Wait till the track is in before you grease it then it won't be so slippery going in. I got some on the window but it came right off with windex and a paper towel. Pretty sure you can get this stuff at most auto parts stores.

Nappers Enthusiast

Nappers

Posted
Posted

My 2000 Yukon had the same problem with the passenger rear door. I discovered also that the cable had gone south. I did further inspection that the wheel that the cables wrap around was shot, they got tangled somehow and ripped up the wheel. The motor was fine so I have a spare motor. So be careful if you just want to replace the cable, I was going to do the same.

 

A new Regulator with motor is $269.00 (here in So. Oregon) and I found a new one on ebay, which didn't sell and I contacted the seller and got a brand new regulator with motor still in package for $60.00. I haven't put it in yet but don't expect too much trouble. I lubed the driver rear door and it rolls up like a charm. I suspect that once a year or so to do some lubing on the windows. I used Slick 50 spray oil, but will probably use white grease or something. The oil may collect more dust.

 

Be patient, the regulators are not a common thing and just wait a bit to find one on ebay or go to your local junk yard. The regulators should be the same from 99 to 02 on Sierras or so I was told.

 

Good luck.

 

If I have good luck with mine, I may post a how to do it for you.

 

I will probably do it Wednesday when I get up (I work nights in a county lock up)

 

L8R

 

Aaron

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