Jump to content

I need a new muffler for my truck...


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everybody. I'm looking for a new muffler to replace the stock muffler on my 1995 C1500 truck. It has a stock 350 small-block with a single 3" exhaust pipe coming from the cat. I looking for a muffler that has a nice deep rumble at idle, but gets very loud under acceleration. It'd also be great if it didn't drone much within 1,500-2,000 RPMs but that's not really a big requirement, I just don't want a headache after driving on the highway.

 

Well first, will a new muffler even sound good with a single pipe? I heard some other people's vehicles with the same engine but with different mufflers and they sound fine, but my dad keeps insisting that I need get full-length headers and a true-dual exhaust to get good sound. I don't want to change much too from the factory system and I especially don't want to pay for all that.

 

I've been listening to some of the Flowmasters... I really like the sound of Super 40 mufflers, but I think they may be too loud to be street legal. What do you think? I do have a cat on my exhaust system, so that may lower the volume just enough.

 

There's one more concern I have. Will the new muffler will allow the exhaust to slow and cool down so much that I lose low-end torque? I really don't want that at all, because that's exactly where I want all my power. I'd rather lose HP in the higher RPMs than lose torque at low RPM.

 

Thanks!

Posted

with a single pipe you get dubble the pitch and rythem of dual pipes.

 

puut puut puut puut puut becomes put put put put put put

 

all your back pressuer is at your cat any muffler will not effect it much at all.

 

if you like the sound of duals you will never be satisfied with a loud single the loder a single gets the closer to fart can it gets.

Posted
with a single pipe you get dubble the pitch and rythem of dual pipes.

 

puut puut puut puut puut becomes put put put put put put

 

That's exactly what my father said would happen.

 

But that fart sound only happens at higher RPMs, right? I rarely take my truck over 3,500 RPMs and never past 4,000.

 

Sorry for being such a n00b.

Posted

What are you guys talking about?

As far as I'm concerned a 3" in and dual 2 1/2" out on those TBI's will rock won't have any drone at all.

Check out the Edelbrock RPM series catbacks...

Which is what I have on my 94 and sounds better than most around...

Limited Lifetime Warranty and fair price

Posted

nah were talking like what a glasspack sounds like on a single pipe it's buzzworthy.

 

yea lot of good single in duall out catbacks with same side, under bumper, and oppisite side exits availble.

 

the guys at the left can hook you up. just call up tbryne or zoomers and tell um what your want.

Posted
Hi everybody. I'm looking for a new muffler to replace the stock muffler on my 1995 C1500 truck. It has a stock 350 small-block with a single 3" exhaust pipe coming from the cat. I looking for a muffler that has a nice deep rumble at idle, but gets very loud under acceleration. It'd also be great if it didn't drone much within 1,500-2,000 RPMs but that's not really a big requirement, I just don't want a headache after driving on the highway.

 

Well first, will a new muffler even sound good with a single pipe? I heard some other people's vehicles with the same engine but with different mufflers and they sound fine, but my dad keeps insisting that I need get full-length headers and a true-dual exhaust to get good sound. I don't want to change much too from the factory system and I especially don't want to pay for all that.

 

I've been listening to some of the Flowmasters... I really like the sound of Super 40 mufflers, but I think they may be too loud to be street legal. What do you think? I do have a cat on my exhaust system, so that may lower the volume just enough.

 

There's one more concern I have. Will the new muffler will allow the exhaust to slow and cool down so much that I lose low-end torque? I really don't want that at all, because that's exactly where I want all my power. I'd rather lose HP in the higher RPMs than lose torque at low RPM.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Are you having trouble finding a complete cat back for your older truck?

 

Replace your stock muffler with one of our Long Barrel Exhaust Chambers . T304 Stainless Steel Lifetime Warranty

 

Take it to a local muffler shop and have them install it with a 3" mandrel bent Universal Tail Pipe most shops stock.

 

This will get you a great sounding great performing exhaust system for under $400.00. Install a stainless or chrome tip to complete the look.

 

Order today $249.00 Zoomers Long Barrel Exhaust Chamber. This will give you that deep throaty sound your looking for plus increased low end torque...

 

Ask for Ron 949-916-3240 or 866-4Zoomers

 

Specs. on Zoomers Exhaust Chamber: http://www.zoomersexhaust.com/exhaust_truck_suv.asp

 

Here's an example of an installation we did with our muffler and a universal tail pipe.

post-19709-1156872799_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872870_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872941_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156873078_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872799_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872870_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872941_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156873078_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872799_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872870_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872941_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156873078_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872799_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872870_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156872941_thumb.jpg

post-19709-1156873078_thumb.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...