Jump to content

Headlights


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 1996 GMC Sierra and as I have recently driven at night at realized my headlights are absolutly awful...

 

Anyway, my father said he would buy me Silverstars because he thinks lighting is a "safety issue." At the same time I would like to get new housings as these have oxodized and are clearly limiting light output, as well as looking bad(yellow). While it would be nice to get an entire new clear front headlight and corner light setup, I want to know what you guys think. My main concern right now is just getting a good headlight assembly(at least just the top part). It seems that the clear ones would work best, but the only stuff from Napa pretty much appear to be OEM and use distorted glass. I was wondering if you guys could recomend another retailer or back NAPA for the actual headlight portion. I want the most effective lighting using the stock harness and Silverstar bulbs(which I assume are Halogen). Ebay has those dirt cheap projectors, but I don't think those are likely worth it.

 

I know this isn't going to be an HID setup by any means, but I would like upgrade my light output "cheaply" as best as possible.

 

The second thing I want to do is either bypass whatever turns of the normal lights when the brights go on(I assume its a relay), or if its internal, I would like to install a relay when the brights go on that turns on the normal headlights. I'm sure some of you have done this before.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Posted

I have seen headlight relays in JCWhitney for the purposes of allowing all four bulbs (not just the two high beams as in the OEM setup) to be illuminated at once. However, I have always shyed away from it, I assumed that GM must have made it that way for some reason. Be it power draw or heat build up, something must have made them do it. If I were you I would just go for the OEM style Napa lens and put in your standard Wagner Halogen bulbs. That Whitestar stuff is a bunch of s**t. My roommate has Whitestar in his ride, it's worthless. Just go with the 9.99 Wagner. Clear lenses probably wouldn't work better, the reflector wasn't designed to be used with them. It is much harder and requires a lot of engineering to make a light fixture with clear lenses. Thats why until recently everything had that distorted glass.

Posted

Thanks...

 

I think I probably will go with distorted glass lights than... Is it possible to find some that are lead crystal and not plastic? Also, is their anywhere but ebay to get OEM housings for under 100 bucks a piece?

 

On the topic of lights(to avoid another thread), I am looking into getting a set of cab lights from Recon. I have no existing lights, so does the dealer have a patern or measurements for where the mounting and wiring holes must be drilled?

 

Mike

Posted

I had same problem on my 93 Silverado. The lenses were yellow. I took a rubbing compund for fiberglass/plastic and "buffed" the haze off. Lenses were clear again. As to replacement bulbs, BOTH of my bulbs burned out at the same time and so I just went to Wal-Mart and got the correct replacement numbered bulb that was in my owners manual. I have owned this truck since new and have "buffed" the lenses twice. Living in Colorado in the winter really kicks up a lot of debris.

Still going strong at 182,000 miles. Good Luck.

Oh Ya, I put in the kit that allows all FOUR lights to come on in the bright light mode. Works fine, takes 5 minutes, and cosy $20. I also put one on my 1995 Tahoe. The extra illumination is very nice.

Posted

Cool... I'll try some of that rubbing compound. Where can it be bought?

 

Also, did that kit plug into the fuse and relay box, or is it tapped into the harness? Do you have a link as to where you bought the kit?

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Posted

Thanks. I went by a few stores today and no one had any, so before I order that stuff I think I will try wet sanding, which I read is a good thing to try. I got 400 and 600 grit paper today, and will hopefully try it out tommorow.

 

If this doesn't work I will order one of those kits.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Posted

Does that Diode mod work for the 96s?

 

Also, I keep leaving my lights on despite the buzz. Does anyone make an auto off module for the headlights on the earlier models?

 

Mike

Posted

We did the sanding today, I think we will still eventually use rubbing compound but the difference is pretty amazine(e-pics don't do it justice). It is worth noticing the housing is a little frosted, however, it appears much cleaner and light output actually has increased.

 

The right side is the "cleaned" side, very early in the process. It got to dark when I remembered to take pictures after we finished, so I'll show the finished thing for tommorow.

 

DSC01143.jpg

 

Mike

Posted

To achieve a vision-quality finish on the lights you will need to wet sand at least through 800 grit, I would go to 1000, then buff with rubbing and polishing compound. I used to wax the lights on my Crown Vic cruiser when I lived in San Francisco to keep the sun damage to a minimum--it worked well compared to just polishing. In a pinch non-gel toothpaste works well and leaves your fingers minty fresh....

Posted

Ok... Tommorow when I am out to get an "automotive relay" for the headlights I will get some finer sand paper.

 

Any specific rub/polish compound you could recomend?

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Posted

I have no brand preference for rubbing and polishing compound. Usually I end up with DuPont because that seems commonly available and it works well. I forgot to mention: do not machine buff the plastic, it will overheat and turn brown or just craze (very fine cracks--what you started with).

Posted

Thanks... Looks like another trip to autozone/home depot today...

 

It seems as though I am going to have to pick up a relay in order to get my headlights to both come on... I have the know how to wire up a relay, but I am wondering exactly where this should be put. The only reference to a the lighting I can find is a 50 Amp lighting fuse in the center under the hood. I assume that feeds all front lighting. I guess that means that there is no relay for the headlights on these trucks(1996; or that I just can't find it) and the switch controls the lighting directly... I would like to avoid adding a fuse by using the existing one for the lighting. The box under the hood further opens up so you have access the wiring behind the fuse and relay sockets. Would it be ok to tap off of the existing front lighting fuse?

 

My current plan would call for putting a T tap off the high beam wire, hooking that into the relay, grounding the other side of course... Then from there running a line after the "lighting" fuse into the relay, and tapping that into the wiring for the lows.

 

I think the most important question is what is the initial amp draw for both lights, and if I were to put an additional fuse inline, what size should I get(for both lows).

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Posted

Mike,

 

There is a tech article online here that tells you how to do the conversion on our OBS trucks. As far as the headlingts go, you are on the right track, after you finish polishing the lenses, put the silverstars in and you will see a dramatic difference. My low beams out shine my high beams (SS in the lows and normal in the highs). If you would like a set of HID lights, sylvania makes them, the same people that made our lights for the factory. Stay away from the aftermarket crap on Ebay, I am sure there are many other people on this sight that can tell you the same horror stories about the fitment and poor quality.

 

Mike

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...