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Undercoating and first oil change?


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Posted

I just bought a 2002 2500HD, should I have it undercoated?    How many miles should I go before the first oil change. What brand of oil should I use?

 

thanks

Posted

Joe,

 

Welcome to the forum. As far as the answer to your questions I need more information. I am from Maine and will move back there in 2 years and I am not going to get my truck undercoated because I really don't think it is nessary. The trucks come from the factory pretty well protected. I did my first oil change at 1300 miles, the second at 3000 and the third at 5000. I wanted to make sure the break in went OK. I hope this helps. I had the dealer do the oil change and I am not sure what brand they use.

Posted

I agree with Stepside, pass on the undercoating.  Most people agree that it is a waste of money.  As for the oil changes, follow what your manual says, I don't recall what the intervals are offhand, but they are the best guideline to go by.

 

By the way, welcome, feel free to post often.

Posted

Welcome HDJoe,

 

The only undercoating I'd do is spray some of the rubberized undercoating in the aerosol can in the rear wheel well.  It'll make the truck look better not having a painted rear wheel well. (I don't know why they don't use liners)

 

I have 1800 miles on my truck and haven't changed the oil yet.  I'll change at 3000 or when the light comes on, whichever comes first.  I would think about 1500 miles would be a good place to change if you are going to keep the truck forever...  I usually trade between 6 months and 3 years, so I just go with every 3K.

Posted

I would get your truck rust proofed ( not undercoated) if you live in the salt belt. As for oil changes, I usually change the first time at 1000 miles to get casting junk out of the engine and then every 3000 from then on.

 

Jay

Posted

Hellow,

Just got a 2500hd 8.1 (96 miles so far love it :D ) was wondering some similar things, thinking about going to synthetic moblil one (or is there a better brand?) there seams to be some disagreement on when to do the switch some say to wait until the motor is well broken in 10,000+ and others point out the cars that come from the factory with synthetic, want the best protection possible, therfore longest life (planning on keeping it as long as possible) what do u guys run? what are the pro's and cons of synthetic? and when?

 

oil weight: the manual recomends 5-30  ??? seams awful thin for a big block in georgia heat ??? again what do u guys run?

 

filter: the filter seams realy dinky for this motor, use to run a heavy duty filter in my 79 chevy van 350 it was the same diameter/thread/seal seat but about 10" long realy increased the oil pressure and let a lot of flow through

is there a similar filter alternative for this motor?

 

rust proofing: I was planning on applieing CorBan-35 to all the bare metal underneath (the drive shart realy needs it) it is a realy thin material used in aircraft to prevent corosion it is not tacky after drying and verry thin u can see through it with a redish hase dont want to be fighting rusty bolts 10 years from now

Posted

It says in the OM that rust proofing is neither needed or recommended. Living in NC we don't have the winter salt to put up with and I've never seen a spec of rust on any off our vehicals.

 

g

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