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Intermittent no start

Soundside

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Soundside New Member

Soundside

Posted
Posted

Hi, I'm a newbie.

I know there are a lot of no-start questions and answers already posted here, but I have not seen anything that looks exactly like mine. Maybe this is a common problem, but i can't seem to find the answer.

 

Have a 96 Yukon, 2wd, 350. Once in a while, I get absolutely nothing when I go to start it. The lights and accessories all work fine, but when you turn the key, NOTHING. No click, no nothing. If you fiddle with it long enough, eventually it will start. But it's almost impossible to troubleshoot, because it never misbehaves when I have my tool box out and a couple hours to work on it, it's always when we're late to go somewhere.

 

Is this a generic key switch problem? Could it be a bad solenoid? Does this model have a regular solenoid?

 

Help! and thanks.

SPARK CHASER Enthusiast

SPARK CHASER

Posted
Posted
Hi, I'm a newbie.

I know there are a lot of no-start questions and answers already posted here, but I have not seen anything that looks exactly like mine.  Maybe this is a common problem, but i can't seem to find the answer.

 

Have a 96 Yukon, 2wd, 350.  Once in a while, I get absolutely nothing when I go to start it.  The lights and accessories all work fine, but when you turn the key, NOTHING.  No click, no nothing.  If you fiddle with it long enough, eventually it will start.  But it's almost impossible to troubleshoot, because it never misbehaves when I have my tool box out and a couple hours to work on it, it's always when we're late to go somewhere.

 

Is this a generic key switch problem?  Could it be a bad solenoid?  Does this model have a regular solenoid?

 

Help! and thanks.

 

 

 

 

Check your battery terminals for corrosion. On the GM side mount type you can have corrosion under the rubber terminal-stud protectors that may not be noticeable unless you peel back the rubber insulator. Also check for a loose or damaged engine ground strap.

Mr. Smith Enthusiast

Mr. Smith

Posted
Posted
Hi, I'm a newbie.

I know there are a lot of no-start questions and answers already posted here, but I have not seen anything that looks exactly like mine.  Maybe this is a common problem, but i can't seem to find the answer.

 

Have a 96 Yukon, 2wd, 350.  Once in a while, I get absolutely nothing when I go to start it.  The lights and accessories all work fine, but when you turn the key, NOTHING.  No click, no nothing.  If you fiddle with it long enough, eventually it will start.  But it's almost impossible to troubleshoot, because it never misbehaves when I have my tool box out and a couple hours to work on it, it's always when we're late to go somewhere.

 

Is this a generic key switch problem?  Could it be a bad solenoid?  Does this model have a regular solenoid?

 

Help! and thanks.

 

 

 

 

Check your battery terminals for corrosion. On the GM side mount type you can have corrosion under the rubber terminal-stud protectors that may not be noticeable unless you peel back the rubber insulator. Also check for a loose or damaged engine ground strap.

 

 

 

 

 

Sounds link an ignition switch. Not the lock cylinder where you put the key in. The switch is farther down th column on top.

Soundside New Member

Soundside

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm fairly sure it's not battery or ground connections. I've checked and double-checked, cleaned and tightened, changed bolts, etc., etc. The power is coming through the system. I'm inclined to go with the ignition switch. You mentioned it's probably not the keyswitch itself, but it does "seem" like there might be a connection issue in the keyswitch itself. It might be my imagination, but it seems like when you turn it against the stop with more force, it actually helps. Is that possible?

 

How hard is it to changeout yerself? I'm a pretty good mechanic, but I've never taken apart the column on an air-bag equipped car. Special tools or precautions necessary? Does the wheel have to come off, or can you access it by removing the covers from the column?

 

Thanks,

Keith

SPARK CHASER Enthusiast

SPARK CHASER

Posted
Posted

You don't have to remove the steering wheel. Remove the column shroud and remove the bolts that attach the column to the dash. You then need to lower and support the steering column to gain access to the ignition switch. Make sure that the switch is in the lock position when removing or installing it.

citydriver Enthusiast

citydriver

Posted
Posted
You don't have to remove the steering wheel.  Remove the column shroud and remove the bolts that attach the column to the dash. You then need to lower and support the steering column to gain access to the ignition switch. Make sure that the switch is in the lock position when removing or installing it.

 

 

 

 

GM stopped using the rod actuated remote ign. switches (Round style column) after the '94 model year in the C/K series. also the Tahoe/Yukon also. I'm pretty sure.

The last time I tried to seperate the top and bottom 1/2 of my column covers, I busted the plastic hooks that hold them together @ the bottom(near the dash) But then again, maybe I was doing it wrong :D

 

May I suggest reviewing a proper service manual before attempting the repair.

 

 

Just throwing in my $.02

SPARK CHASER Enthusiast

SPARK CHASER

Posted
Posted

Well, you better inform Chilton and Haynes that their manuals are wrong. According to both of them, you have to take off the column shroud and lower the column to access the ignition switch on 96 thru 98 GM trucks

citydriver Enthusiast

citydriver

Posted
Posted
Well, you better inform Chilton and Haynes that their manuals are wrong. According to both of them, you have to take off the column shroud and lower the column to access the ignition switch on 96 thru 98 GM trucks

 

 

 

 

 

You are absolutely right!

 

I was just saying that there was a design change mid '95 that moved the switch further up the column closer to the lock cylinder.

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