cluster modifications

[cvdcksn]

I have read several of the posts pertaining to the modifications that are desired for cluster color/motors/faces, etc. and have found it rather frustrating to find that most are directed to head to the dealer for cluster replacements when bulbs burn out.

 

If GM were to have used LED's in the first place, there wouldn't be this issue. But then how would they make money on the whole gauge set right?

 

There are some difficulties with respect to retrofitting the lamps out, but it can be overcome with a little electronics/soldering know-how and a little patience. The dealers won't replace the lamps as it is not cost effective for them to install a 2bit bulb and charge the same labor as would be required to replace the whole cluster!

 

Most of the gauge cluster has color filters for the turn signals & DRL (green), hi beams (blue), and then the seat belts, emer. brake, airbags, check engine (red) and various others for those of you with diesel engines. These filters are necessary due to the costs involved with producing buld covers for the bulbs and having replacements available thereafter. These filters wouldn't be required if LED's were used. As a matter of fact, several of the LED colors available can nearly completely override the filter colors present since the LED's produce the color as opposed to an incandescent lamp shining through a filter.

 

I am currently in the process of retrofitting my cluster to blue LED's, which will include the door switches, heater and radio controls, headlight switch, air bag sel. sw. and the canopy switch.

 

Perhaps I should take this service 'on the road' and offer it to those of you out there that require simple bulb replacements!? Courier components c/w list of mods/repairs required and voila, back to you good as new!

 

I welcome your feedback!

[Rolandd]

How are you dealing with the voltage differences (bulbs are usually 5 or 12 volts, LEDs 1.5-3)? Also, what will the effect be when you dim the cluster: will the LEDs dim at the same rate as the bulbs or will the cluster dim way down while the heater and radio are still bright.

 

I agree that creating a soldered cluster is rediculous. I will laugh if a signal or high beam indicator bulb dies while I still have warrenty coverage: it will be a $400 repair for GM so that I can pass state inspection, all due to a $0.001 bulb that could have been a plug-in, adding $1 to the total cost of the truck.

[HawkeyeOC]

Were LEDs cost effective to put in back in '97?. It may have been way too expensive then. They have only just started to filter down from higher end luxury cars into the mainstream car market for more than just 3rd brake lights in recent years.

 

I know it doesn't help your situation, but my '07 came with LED lighting in the cluster. Finally it appears they got it right. The '07 clusters are amazing to look at at night with the green LEDs.

 

Sounds like you will have a good business going replacing bulbs! Good idea!

[cvdcksn]

How are you dealing with the voltage differences (bulbs are usually 5 or 12 volts, LEDs 1.5-3)? Also, what will the effect be when you dim the cluster: will the LEDs dim at the same rate as the bulbs or will the cluster dim way down while the heater and radio are still bright.

 

I agree that creating a soldered cluster is rediculous. I will laugh if a signal or high beam indicator bulb dies while I still have warrenty coverage: it will be a $400 repair for GM so that I can pass state inspection, all due to a $0.001 bulb that could have been a plug-in, adding $1 to the total cost of the truck.

 

The voltage difference is addressed with the use of resistors. Each LED must have a resistor or must be soldered together in series to handle the 12volts.

 

Dimming still operates the same as the voltage is adjusted via a variable resistor (rheostat) in the dimming module. All items that are retrofit with LED's will function the same as before.

[ZZebes]

I Feel a How-To coming on

[Rolandd]

How are you dealing with the voltage differences (bulbs are usually 5 or 12 volts, LEDs 1.5-3)? Also, what will the effect be when you dim the cluster: will the LEDs dim at the same rate as the bulbs or will the cluster dim way down while the heater and radio are still bright.

 

I agree that creating a soldered cluster is rediculous. I will laugh if a signal or high beam indicator bulb dies while I still have warrenty coverage: it will be a $400 repair for GM so that I can pass state inspection, all due to a $0.001 bulb that could have been a plug-in, adding $1 to the total cost of the truck.

 

The voltage difference is addressed with the use of resistors. Each LED must have a resistor or must be soldered together in series to handle the 12volts.

 

Dimming still operates the same as the voltage is adjusted via a variable resistor (rheostat) in the dimming module. All items that are retrofit with LED's will function the same as before.

 

 

The issue with dimming is that an LED will emmit about 50% of its maximum light output when supplied with 50% of its maximum power. A filliment bulb will emit about 20% of its maximum light output when supplied with 50% of its maximum power. The LED cluster will stay bright relative to the other dash modules. The difference between using in-line resistors and wiring in series may help to get the LEDs to behave more like the bulbs in the other modules (heater and radio).

[cvdcksn]

How are you dealing with the voltage differences (bulbs are usually 5 or 12 volts, LEDs 1.5-3)? Also, what will the effect be when you dim the cluster: will the LEDs dim at the same rate as the bulbs or will the cluster dim way down while the heater and radio are still bright.

 

I agree that creating a soldered cluster is rediculous. I will laugh if a signal or high beam indicator bulb dies while I still have warrenty coverage: it will be a $400 repair for GM so that I can pass state inspection, all due to a $0.001 bulb that could have been a plug-in, adding $1 to the total cost of the truck.

 

The voltage difference is addressed with the use of resistors. Each LED must have a resistor or must be soldered together in series to handle the 12volts.

 

Dimming still operates the same as the voltage is adjusted via a variable resistor (rheostat) in the dimming module. All items that are retrofit with LED's will function the same as before.

 

 

The issue with dimming is that an LED will emmit about 50% of its maximum light output when supplied with 50% of its maximum power. A filliment bulb will emit about 20% of its maximum light output when supplied with 50% of its maximum power. The LED cluster will stay bright relative to the other dash modules. The difference between using in-line resistors and wiring in series may help to get the LEDs to behave more like the bulbs in the other modules (heater and radio).

 

 

You sir, are correct. If you don't fit other incandescent lit components, you will notice the difference between those lit by LED's. Typically, the cluster is isolated enough that any mods to the cluster will not throw off the rest of the interior panels. It is purely a matter of preference/choice.

[Draenor]

I always thought the LED's were either in an on or off state. You could not dim them.

[uh6077]

LED's can be dimmed but it is tricky. I doubt they can be dimmed using the stock dimmer switch. Most dimmer switched require resistance or load which is way above what a LED will offer. It also depends on the LED being used. Some will only dim to 50%, even if the dimmer is off. Some will not dim at all. The effect will not be worth the trouble. LEDs only last a long time if the are set up right. Start adding resistors, solder and DIY engineering and those LEDs will last 1/4 of what a regular bulb would. It is possible but why?