Jump to content

Another Lift Question


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok...i'm about to buy a 3in body lift and now i'm looking at other options to get same lift with better functionality and possibly less money.

 

I'm looking at:

(1) Procomp add-a-leaf (site says 1.5-2.5" lift) - part # 13127 - http://www.explorerprocomp.com/PDFs/07cat/62-71.pdf

(1a) Additional 1" block if part fits my truck and ford keys will crank enough to compensate

(2) Ford keys cranked level - from a ford parts website

(3) New shocks if needed - procomp, rancho, or fabtech probably

 

Questions:

(1) Will this setup work and be about the same lift as 3" body lift?

(2) Will this setup allow 35x12.5x17 tires (I know 3" body lift will)?

(3) Will this setup require new shocks?

(4) Is this setup considered a suspension lift?

Posted

Seems your like me you just want a little more truck look and big tires. I had a rear rought country add a leaf installed by my mechanic when the rearend was being rebuilt only cost me $80 figured thats worth it. me and a friend installed ford keys shortly after and cranked them to the max to almost sit level with the back. Wow the ride was violent the front had Know where to go because the shocks were fully extended. I got new rough country shocks for a 2inch lift which i should have gotten the ones for a 4inch lift because after cranking the ford keys it was probably 4 or close to 4inches. Once I added the new shocks upfront the front sat higher and now was level with the rear. Now im guessing when i install the rear shocks it will go up too.....problem was jcwhitney sent the wrong ones i threw away the box and cant find one to ship them in. You wont be able to add an addiontal 1 inch of block and keep it level with the front maxed out on ford keys the rear will sit higher. So after this long paragraph i hope i have helped you and if someone can help me by telling me if 35s will fit on my truck....I dont want really wide just tall because i run 265/70/16 now and its a v6 4.3 so i dont want to go any wider maybe go back to the stock 245 and taller sidewall will do. any ideas of what i can run on a 17, 18, or 20 inch rim? oh and id only do 20" cuz i can get a deal from my buddy off his lowered silverado

 

 

Ok...i'm about to buy a 3in body lift and now i'm looking at other options to get same lift with better functionality and possibly less money.

 

I'm looking at:

(1) Procomp add-a-leaf (site says 1.5-2.5" lift) - part # 13127 - http://www.explorerprocomp.com/PDFs/07cat/62-71.pdf

(1a) Additional 1" block if part fits my truck and ford keys will crank enough to compensate

(2) Ford keys cranked level - from a ford parts website

(3) New shocks if needed - procomp, rancho, or fabtech probably

 

Questions:

(1) Will this setup work and be about the same lift as 3" body lift?

(2) Will this setup allow 35x12.5x17 tires (I know 3" body lift will)?

(3) Will this setup require new shocks?

(4) Is this setup considered a suspension lift?

Posted

how much are a set (4) of good shocks that will accomodate about a 4in lift? I'll probably do the rear add-a-leaf and ford keys for the front...

 

is there any other way to lift up the front suspension wise besides keys?

Posted

I think that the cheapest way for a lift of that size would be like what I did. You can get the 3" blocks (I think it was like $25 or not uch at all!) for the rear end from auto zone. My rear shocks were fine but I eventually upgraded with Monroe Gas shocks which actually raised my truck in the rear about an inch!

 

And then you can turn your keys in the front and upgrade your shocks!

 

Personally I think that add a leaf sucks and for the same amount of money you can get those custom fit Semi air shocks which help with up 5000lb load distribution. The minimum air pressure is like 5 psi, if your shocks have enought room you could leave more air pressure in them to be the same as the add a leaf. Just keep in mind with the stock axels and the weight.

 

Hope this helps

Posted
I think that the cheapest way for a lift of that size would be like what I did. You can get the 3" blocks (I think it was like $25 or not uch at all!) for the rear end from auto zone. My rear shocks were fine but I eventually upgraded with Monroe Gas shocks which actually raised my truck in the rear about an inch!

 

And then you can turn your keys in the front and upgrade your shocks!

 

Personally I think that add a leaf sucks and for the same amount of money you can get those custom fit Semi air shocks which help with up 5000lb load distribution. The minimum air pressure is like 5 psi, if your shocks have enought room you could leave more air pressure in them to be the same as the add a leaf. Just keep in mind with the stock axels and the weight.

 

Hope this helps

 

so basically you're saying I should just get a larger block instead of the add-a-leaf and still get the ford keys...how much are a good set of shocks?

 

btw - is the pic in your sig after the lift?

Posted

he's right those blocks for the back are much cheaper....say $20-$40 difference. But dont you need more than a 3" block unless your stacking it on the stock block. my add-a-leaf was $65 ill break it down

 

Front

Ford keys $50-$75 cant remember

shocks for front $35 each = $70

Alignment $50

$170

 

rear

add-a-leaf $65+$80 installed= $145 cheaper if u install but my truck was already in shop

two shocks $35each =$70

$215

 

Total= $385 add some $ for shock install if you dont do it yourself and the key replacment. Me personally i went with the leafs because it has more haul capacity since its a helper spring. I do want to bag it though for lift that is all around

 

Now i still want opinions if 35s will fit my truck. Ill know for sure when i get to a tire shop but im not buying new tires for a while.

 

Here i just took some pictures with my Rizr no rear shocks installed just stockers

03-02-07_1022.jpg

03-02-07_1021.jpg

03-02-07_1023.jpg

03-02-07_1024.jpg

 

keep in mind the truck is in the gutter not on flat surface

Posted

I figured out that I can get:

 

Set of 2 Tuff Country 3" blocks - $60 shipped

Ford Keys for the front (Cranked) - $50 shipped

Set of 4 Procomp ES9000 shocks - $130 shipped

 

Install myself - Total - $240

 

Someone suggested I get an add-a-leaf instead because the rear end may sag. Also, they said 3" block was too much because I couldn't safely crank the front enough to be level.

Posted

My truck as shown is with the lift complete but I only put 2" blocks which now I am wishin I put 3" blocks. I think that I am going to switch them out when I do a body lift. I do have some sort of add a leaf installed in my truck but it really didnt do anything and bought some good shocks that were great that I thought would help lift the rear end. I think that when I torked my torsion bars I got like inch and 3/4, maybe 2" I cant remember what I measured out.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,086 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...