Jump to content

Upper Control Arm Ball Joint


icecoldtexan

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a torn boot on my passenger side upper control arm ball joint. It looks like it's pressed into the control arm. Will I need a press to replace this ? ...or just a big hammer :cool:

'01 2500hd 6.0l

Posted

Yes you need a press to do this... they usually are very tight. on my 01' it wasent very easy but i did it at work. Also did the control arm bushings casue they were shot and they are a pain as well. Better off to the a tech to do it with a press, plus u need the front end off the ground casue when u disconnect the ball joint, the whole arm hangs out.

Posted

Changing the upper ball jiont is not recomended. The dealer here deosn't sell just the ball joint.They want you to buy the whole control arm. I have just changed the upper ball joint but it was loose in the arm so I just welded it. Some went in tihgt and was ok. Got the ball joint from AC Delco. I didn't use a press just a ball joint tool.

  • 3 months later...
Posted
Changing the upper ball jiont is not recomended. The dealer here deosn't sell just the ball joint.They want you to buy the whole control arm. I have just changed the upper ball joint but it was loose in the arm so I just welded it. Some went in tihgt and was ok. Got the ball joint from AC Delco. I didn't use a press just a ball joint tool.

 

I just changed the complete upper control arm. It only took about an hour and the job wasn't too bad. The new control arm from the dealer also had the bushings in it. The cost was only $150.00. I thought that was a very good price for the complete assembly from the dealer. The only thing negative I could say about it is the new control arm didn't seem as "tough" as the old one. They must have made a design change since '01. The original arm was "boxed" the new arm is not. Can someone verify the GM part #15224737 is the correct arm for a 2001 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 ?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...