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Towing Truck On Trailer

J45p3r

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J45p3r Enthusiast

J45p3r

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be pulling a 1996 K1500 RCSB Z71 on a car hauler this weekend with my truck. My question is, where is the proper place to put the straps on the truck? Around the rear axel and front A-Frame's?

turbojoes Enthusiast

turbojoes

Posted
Posted

however you strap it dowm just make sure that the suspension still moves as if it was on the road itself (otherwise do not strap it to the frame). the rear use the axle and the front i don't know what's under there to tell you what to use. maybe the a arms as long as it doesn't cut the strap.

spartus Enthusiast

spartus

Posted
Posted
I'm going to be pulling a 1996 K1500 RCSB Z71 on a car hauler this weekend with my truck. My question is, where is the proper place to put the straps on the truck? Around the rear axel and front A-Frame's?

 

I've been towing my Caprice (4340 lbs) behind my truck for over 4 years now, for a combined weight of around 6,200 lbs car and trailer. I like crossing the straps, and then hooking up to the factory anchor points on the frame used by GM and the delivery semis. I've hit some nasty dips on the highways and back roads, and the car has never shifted. Just be sure to compress the suspension some.

 

I used to anchor to the rear axle with axle straps, and the front control arms, but have never had an issue with using the frame.

C & A s Dad Senior Enthusiast

C & A s Dad

Posted
Posted

If you look at what the semi car haulers do, they hook to the frame and compress the suspension to reduce the roll and bounce in the vehicles while they are moving. Of course they are hauling 7 or 8 vehicles at one time. I would think you would want it strapped down at the frame to the point of compressing the springs to some degree. However, I am just assuming this would be correct and am certainly no expert in this area.

asilverblazer Senior Enthusiast

asilverblazer

Posted
Posted

If you do use the frame, it would have to compress the suspension completely, other wise if you hit a bump that compresses the suspension more than your straps do, they will be momentarily loose, I would fear one coming unhooked in this brief window of oppurtunity. I would use the axle tube in the rear and cross those. Lower controls arms up front so long as the strap isn't cut by any sharp edges. As mentioned above. Make sure the trailer is properly balanced too. I've noticed those semi-car haulers cinch them down TIGHT to the frame. I don't know that Joe-blow could get them that tight with out the proper tools or equipment.

turbojoes Enthusiast

turbojoes

Posted
Posted

also if the trailer starts swaying around on you stop and pull the truck up further on the trailer to put more weight on the tongue.

Y2KLimited Enthusiast

Y2KLimited

Posted
Posted

I tow my vette regularly to races and to the shop (just got back from dropping it off again actually) in a 24 enclosed, I originally started with axle straps crossed over the 4 arms in an x pattern, I've since switched to T or R hooks into the factory tie down slots (they're along the frame rails on the tahoe the oval shaped holes bottom side an along the side of the rails) once again in an X without any problems, This is at well past the recommended 60 mph speeds for towing (think 80-90), hills, NYC potholes, major hills (watkins glen etc.) without any problems with the car shifting, moving etc.

 

big thing is cross the straps it gives the tied down vehicle more lateral stability for the intstanced while towing if/when it can become light. I've heard stories about big dollar cars going sideways in trailers because people were afraid to tie them down firm enough and x the straps.

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