Jump to content

1st Oil Change Question...


Recommended Posts

Posted

Currently my NBS Sierra has less than 1000 miles on it, but I am going on vacation the end of August and will be driving to FL and back. I want to switch to a full synthetic at the first oil change, probably Pennzoil Platinum. Should I change it before the trip or after I get back. I doubt I'll hit the 3K mark during the trip, but I have heard it's best to do the first oil change early anyway. What are your thoughts? Thanks...

Posted

I would agree with GRB60. Run it up until a few days before your trip and change it. Just be sure and use a good quality filter, AC, Wix, etc. (CARQUEST and NAPA are supplied by Wix) and not one of those "orange things" they call a filter.

 

Be sure if you buy one from CQ or NAPA, you want the premium filter. Wix supplies us with our second line as well but it is not their premium filter. Sometimes a Counter Person will assume you want the cheapest filter and will sell you the economy one without offering you the premium version.

 

BTW, there are other good filters out there, I just mentioned a few.

Posted

my 98 1500 has 136,000 on it. Would any of you recommend switching over to a full synthetic after this long of conventional? Also if I were to switch over, how extensive should my draining procedure be? Any tips on switching if yall think I should?

Posted

if you switch to synthetic you will add somewhere in the neighborhood of 38HP....if you put in amsoil you will add somewhere around 62HP if you put in amsoil with a wix filter and a amsoil sticker you will add atleast 100HP hahahahahaha. i personally use whale fat for superior lubrication. no just kidding but really i use mobil one but i dont see any reason to change it before 3000 miles

Posted
my 98 1500 has 136,000 on it. Would any of you recommend switching over to a full synthetic after this long of conventional? Also if I were to switch over, how extensive should my draining procedure be? Any tips on switching if yall think I should?

 

 

There are varying opinions on this. However, if you engine is solid, well maintained with no leaks, you should have no issues moving to syn. However, if you do have a leak or leaks, know that they will likely get worse with syn.

Posted
if you switch to synthetic you will add somewhere in the neighborhood of 38HP....if you put in amsoil you will add somewhere around 62HP if you put in amsoil with a wix filter and a amsoil sticker you will add atleast 100HP hahahahahaha. i personally use whale fat for superior lubrication. no just kidding but really i use mobil one but i dont see any reason to change it before 3000 miles

 

 

What do you mean ha ha ha ha? Everthing you said is absolutely true. :chevrolet:

Posted

Thanks for the help, I used Wix Filters from NAPA exclusively in my Nissan Frontier and never worried about quality. I also used full synthetic, mainly Mobil 1, but switched to Pennzoil Platinum for the last few mainly because AutoZone was running some awesome deals on the Pennzoil! I plan on following the same routine with the Sierra!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...