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Reverse Lights Inop

bossier62guy

By bossier62guy
in Ask A GM Technician

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bossier62guy Senior Enthusiast

bossier62guy

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I've got a 02 Silverado and I'm having a lil problem with the reverse lights....they don't work! I've checked all of the fuses in the engine compartment, the bulbs and even changed the Park Neutral Position switch (on a tip from someone else) and still no go. I also checked for voltage at the bulb socket itself to rule out a ground issue and there is none there. Any help would be much appreciated....

  • 2 weeks later...
bossier62guy Senior Enthusiast

bossier62guy

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I guess I'm the only one that's ever experienced problems w/ the back up lights. Come on Bobcat, point me in the right direction :crackup: . I'm about to start shooting some wires....although I doubt that's the problem. Another thing is my N light has been failing to illuminate when the truck is in neutral for sometime now. I know it's not the instrument panel and it's not the PNP switch....could the two be related?

atboley Enthusiast

atboley

Posted
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i hope this helps you, just follow and check for power at each of the points, starting at the begining and working to the end......

 

Starts at the 25A "B/U LP" fuse underhood, from there, you should have power at the PNP switch at the pink wire(there is only one pink wire) , then there should be power comming out of the switch in reverse at the LT Green wire(terminal F, there will be 2 lt grn wires...) , from there it goes back to the underhood fuse block to the 15A "VEH B/U" fuse, then it goes all the way from the front of the vehicle to the junction block on the right rear under the bed... you should have power going into the junction block at terminal F connector C1(blue connector) LT Green wire... then it goes out of the junction block straight to the backup lamps... also check the ground which is G401 located on the spare tire hoist bracket...

 

you need a test lamp or a voltmeter for all this testing, if you dont have either, BUY ONE!!!, let me know what you find!!!

Remember, dont just pull the fuses and look at them, poke the top with the test light and see if they have power, a good fuse does no good if it has no power going thru it :crackup:

bossier62guy Senior Enthusiast

bossier62guy

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I appreciate the assistance....I just got the factory manuals a couple of days ago and I do indeed have a digital multimeter. Acutally I spent about 25 years in the Air Force and Air Force Reserves as an Avionics Technician. I'll let you know what I find!

atboley Enthusiast

atboley

Posted
Posted

i would say the main things are, the fuses of course, but also mack sure you have ground at the lamp sockets, and make sure you have power going into that junction block... those terminals are always melting and opening up and not making good contact, so make sure the terminal is not damged also

bossier62guy Senior Enthusiast

bossier62guy

Posted
  • Author
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i would say the main things are, the fuses of course, but also mack sure you have ground at the lamp sockets, and make sure you have power going into that junction block... those terminals are always melting and opening up and not making good contact, so make sure the terminal is not damged also

 

I'll check it all thoroughly and let you know what I find....once again I do appreciate the guidance.

bossier62guy Senior Enthusiast

bossier62guy

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Alex,

I got the reverse lights working today! The problem was self induced :crackup: . I installed a flex-a-lite fan system in my truck last summer and used the 25A B/U lamp fuse as a source of ignition voltage for the fan controller. Obviously when installing the fuse tap I managed to open the fuse contacts in the panel so much that the left leg of the fuse was making intermittent contact at best. I removed the fuse tap and the fuse just fell into place without any help from me. I've got everything back together now and it's working fine. I do appreciate your assistance in this matter.

John

BTW, I hate fuse taps....

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