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Knock Sensors


nastyZ71

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Posted

just got my PCM back from wait4me now after a couple weeks my truck has thrown a P0332 code for the rear knock sensor.

have done a search and got some good info for changing them as well as a TSB about it.

do I have to change both of the sensors or just the rear?

 

any other tips or stuff I should watch for would be great as well.

 

thanks in advance!!

Posted
just got my PCM back from wait4me now after a couple weeks my truck has thrown a P0332 code for the rear knock sensor.

have done a search and got some good info for changing them as well as a TSB about it.

do I have to change both of the sensors or just the rear?

 

any other tips or stuff I should watch for would be great as well.

 

thanks in advance!!

 

 

If yer in there might as well change them both.

Posted

If yer in there might as well change them both.

 

 

that is what I was thinking. not like an O2 sensor that is pretty easy to get at.

any tricks, or problems I should watch for?

have not had the top end of one of these apart yet.

with all the plastic how about torque values for the intake bolts?

it is a 5.3 if that makes any difference.

Posted

It's an easy job.

 

Hope this helps!

 

4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L Engines

To Remove:

 

NOTE: The intake manifold, throttle body, fuel injection rail, and fuel injectors may be removed as an assembly. If not servicing the individual components, remove the manifold as a complete assembly.

 

Remove or disconnect the following:

PCV hose and valve

MAP sensor, if required

EGR valve

Knock sensor harness electrical connector from intake and set harness aside

EGR pipe bolts from intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and cylinder head

Vacuum brake booster hose from rear of intake manifold

Engine coolant air bleed clamp and hose from the throttle body (not necessary of you just unbolt the TB and just let hang out of the way)

Accelerator control cable bracket and bolts, if required

 

Throttle body and gasket (I just unbolted it and let it hang out of the way)

 

 

EVAP solenoid, bolt, and isolator

Intake manifold bolts

Intake manifold with gaskets

Intake manifold-to-cylinder head gaskets from the manifold and discard the intake manifold gaskets

Fuel rail with injectors

 

 

 

Throttle body and gasket

Clean the intake manifold in solvent

Dry the intake manifold with compressed air

Inspect the throttle body studs and stud inserts for looseness or damaged threads

Inspect the wire harness stud and stud insert for looseness or damaged threads

Inspect the fuel rail bolt inserts for looseness or damaged threads

Inspect the intake manifold vacuum passages for debris or restrictions

Inspect for damaged or broken vacuum fittings, damaged MAP sensor mounting bore, or broken MAP sensor retaining tabs

Inspect the composite intake manifold assembly for cracks or other damage

Inspect the areas between the intake runners. Inspect all the gasket sealing surfaces for damage

Inspect the fuel injector bores for excessive scoring or damage

Inspect the intake manifold cylinder head deck for warpage

Locate a straight edge across the intake manifold cylinder head deck surface

Position the straight edge across a minimum of two runner port openings

Insert a feeler gauge between the intake manifold and the straight edge

NOTE: An intake manifold with warpage in excess of 0.118 in. (3 mm) over a 7.87 in. (200 mm) area is warped and should be replaced.

 

To Install:

 

NOTE: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install or connect the following:

MAP sensor

EVAP solenoid, bolt, and isolator and tighten the EVAP solenoid bolt; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

New intake manifold-to-cylinder head gaskets

Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) band of a threadlocking compound to the threads of the intake manifold bolts and install the intake manifold

Intake manifold bolts and tighten intake manifold bolts as follows:

First pass in sequence; Torque to: 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm)

Tighten intake manifold bolts on second pass in sequence; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

 

Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence- 4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L

 

8 . 9

5 . 3

1 . 2

4 . 6

10 . 7

 

 

 

 

PCV valve and hose

Engine coolant air bleed hose and clamp onto the throttle body

EGR valve

Knock sensor harness electrical connector to intake

EGR pipe bolts to intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and cylinder head

Tighten the EGR pipe-to-intake manifold bolts; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Tighten the EGR pipe-to-cylinder head bolts; Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Tighten the EGR pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts; Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)

Vacuum brake booster hose to rear of intake manifold

Accelerator control cable bracket and bolts, if applicable and tighten the accelerator control cable bracket bolts; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

Posted

one last thing, on the TSB is says to build a dam around the knock sensor with RTV.

so it sounds simple enough only you will leave a small gap at the back for any water to drain out. if it was completely encircled obviously the water would pool.

am I correct on this?

Posted
one last thing, on the TSB is says to build a dam around the knock sensor with RTV.

so it sounds simple enough only you will leave a small gap at the back for any water to drain out. if it was completely encircled obviously the water would pool.

am I correct on this?

 

Give me your e-mail and I'll send ya the TSB with an illustration.

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