Replace Water Pump

jtupper · October 16, 2007

Okay, my water pump seems to be leaking so I need to replace it. First, I have a few questions...

Do I need a special tool to get the fan assembly off the old pump? Once I pull this thing apart, I will have no way to get to the parts store so I want to try to get everything I need beforehand.

I've been reading where often times it's just the gaskets leaking. I can't see the weep hole to verify if that's where the water is coming from. Once I get it off, is there any way to determine whether it was just the gaskets or if the pump is actually bad? As long as the water isn't coming from the weep hole, the pump should be okay, right? It isn't leaking too much...just a fairly steady drip, but it's getting on the belts and squealing like a virgin on prom night!

Lastly, I assume this would be done by removing the fan shroud and going in from the top correct? Or would it be easier from the bottom? Anyone have a play by play for this? I can't seem to find one using the search. A local shop quoted me $400, but I can get a new pump for $100 and do it myself.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Norseman · October 16, 2007

Use a strap wrench to keep the WP pulley from moving when removing the fan clutch.

*****Make sure you use the metal Fel-Pro Gaskets******

07Graystone · October 16, 2007

If you are planning to keep the vehicle for a few more years, I would be inclined to replace the pump, even if there is no water at the weep hole, since you have to remove it to change the gaskets.

C & A s Dad · October 16, 2007

Josh, I would not even consider reusing the pump on a 8 year old vehcle. Get a new pump, not a reman and flush the system while in there. If you have rear heat, be sure and run it while doing the flush. Go back with Dexcool and I would suggest a product called Kool It from Lubegard (part # 96001). It is a wonderful product that will eliminate all chemical electrolysis.

At least the top half of the shroud does have to come off. I would also suggest you take a close look at those belts and hoses while in there.

Hey, I bet I sound like some kind of Parts Salesman.

rogerf · October 17, 2007

At least the top half of the shroud does have to come off. I would also suggest you take a close look at those belts and hoses while in there.

Hey, I bet I sound like some kind of Parts Salesman.

Just add a little more insight to this...Throw the hoses & belts away and start over on a vehicle of this age if you are going into a water pump. When I did this job on my '97 C1500, removed the top-half of the fan shroud. Then, the entire radiator simply lifts out the top (which makes it really easy to flush with a garden hose). Secure a piece of cardboard over the exposed A/C coils, climb in and go at it. One tip, remove the fan from the pump before removing the belt, will keep the shaft from spinning while unscrewing the fan.

On your question about pump-squeel and no leaks, it's just an early warning sign the internal pump bearings are on their way out. Another area for bearing squeel is the idler pully and belt tentioner pully bearings. They are too cheap to replace to ignore on a job this involved.

Bish · October 17, 2007

Fully agree on the comment about replacing hoses. I STRONGLY recommend you replace them given the age. Hoses age with use AND exposure so even if your truck sits and doesn't get driven much, the hoses still deteriorate over time. Wouldn't it suck if you changed the water pump and blew a hose in the middle of nowhere two weeks later???

Cheap insurance.

jtupper · October 17, 2007

Thanks for all the input guys. Anyone know what size wrench is needed to remove the fan? Are the fel pro gaskets available at the local parts store or do I need to order online?

C & A s Dad · October 17, 2007

Josh, although I work for CARQUEST and it pains me to do so, I will tell you that most NAPA stores are now carrying Fel Pro and if I am not mistaken, O Reillys does as well. Our gaskets are Victor-Reinz but there seems to be a general concensus that the Water Pump Gaskets on these engines needs to be a Fel Pro. I believe Fel Pro was the first to develop an improved wp gaket for this engine and I would feel that Victor now has an equal quality gasket. I have never had even one complaint on the Victor but I have also heard many people say the Fel Pro is the way to go.

jtupper · October 17, 2007

Josh, although I work for CARQUEST and it pains me to do so, I will tell you that most NAPA stores are now carrying Fel Pro and if I am not mistaken, O Reillys does as well. Our gaskets are Victor-Reinz but there seems to be a general concensus that the Water Pump Gaskets on these engines needs to be a Fel Pro. I believe Fel Pro was the first to develop an improved wp gaket for this engine and I would feel that Victor now has an equal quality gasket. I have never had even one complaint on the Victor but I have also heard many people say the Fel Pro is the way to go.

That is the concensus I've gathered from reading here as well. I've done some searches online for the felpro gaskets at AZ and O'Reilly and all I can find are header gaskets. I'll call O'Reilly. I haven't seen a NAPA around here in ages.

rogerf · October 18, 2007

Anyone know what size wrench is needed to remove the fan?

My old truck was a 4.3L V-6 so the pumps are different. It's been a several years (and suffering from CRS) but recall using an large Cressent or channel-locks on the fan. This V-6 had a single, large-nut & threaded shaft where it attached to the pump. There was something else odd, maybe an opposite thread direction. It does spin right off once you crack it loose. Remember using some Locktite on the reinstall to be on the safe side.

Norseman · October 18, 2007

Thanks for all the input guys. Anyone know what size wrench is needed to remove the fan? Are the fel pro gaskets available at the local parts store or do I need to order online?

I just used a 10'' adjustable wrench.

****NOT ENDORSING THIS BRAND -- JUST USING IT FOR THE PICTURE****

dreman · October 18, 2007

I couldn't get the fan pulley to stop spinning even with the belt in place and pushing on the tensioner! I had to put a wrench on one of the pulley bolts and lay it against the next bolt head to have something to push against that wouldn't spin. And once the big nut finally let go, it spun right off.

jtupper · October 19, 2007

Well, done deal!

The hardest part (as expected) was getting the fan off. I fought it for about 1/2 hr., with the pulley slipping and turning. I couldn't figure out any way to pry a wrench in there to stop it from turning. Finally, I noticed 4 holes in the WP pulley, so I ran a wire hanger through one of the holes and twisted it around the compressor pulley. Once the hanger caught, the bolt loosened right up. After that it was gravy.

I didn't use the felpro gaskets. Neither AZ or O'Reilly had then in stock so I had to go with the ones that came with the WP. They look just like the felpro gaskets. All in all, not too hard of a job and I saved myself about $270 by doing it myself.

hoorders · October 19, 2007

Well, done deal!

The hardest part (as expected) was getting the fan off. I fought it for about 1/2 hr., with the pulley slipping and turning. I couldn't figure out any way to pry a wrench in there to stop it from turning. Finally, I noticed 4 holes in the WP pulley, so I ran a wire hanger through one of the holes and twisted it around the compressor pulley. Once the hanger caught, the bolt loosened right up. After that it was gravy.

I didn't use the felpro gaskets. Neither AZ or O'Reilly had then in stock so I had to go with the ones that came with the WP. They look just like the felpro gaskets. All in all, not too hard of a job and I saved myself about $270 by doing it myself.