Jump to content

Spare Tire Removal - Gmt900


Recommended Posts

Posted

2008 GMC regualr car.

 

Page: 5-96 manual.

 

"Be sure hoist end of extensiion (F) connects to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare.

 

I can't seem to get the end of the extension to connect to anything. Yes, the correct end. And there is no way to look as it is in a tunnel from rear of bumper. Is there a trick to this? Has anyone actually taken the spare off on GMT900?

Posted
2008 GMC regualr car.

 

Page: 5-96 manual.

 

"Be sure hoist end of extensiion (F) connects to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare.

 

I can't seem to get the end of the extension to connect to anything. Yes, the correct end. And there is no way to look as it is in a tunnel from rear of bumper. Is there a trick to this? Has anyone actually taken the spare off on GMT900?

 

I have taken my spare out to do other work and I had to fiddle around with it. Glad I did, instead of figuring it out in the dark and raining. Is the shaft bottoming out on something in the tunnel or is it just flopping around in there? Pardon me if this is too basic: I can't remember how many sections of shaft it required, probably all three.

Posted
engage other end of rod assy - trust me - happened to me first time around

 

That'd be the female end. Male end will fit in square hole in middle of OEM lug wrench handle.

Posted

Yeah, it was a pain to lower the first time. It took me quite a while to figure out that you use the end with the square hole in it to connect into the socket that lowers the tire. It's not explained very clearly in the manual.

Posted

If I am reading above correctly, one is telling me to put square end in tunnel and the other is telling not to.

 

I did put square end in tunnel. There are 3 sections. And L shaped wrench. The three sections of tubing snap together. Square end inside bumper tunnel. It goes way in. But it seems to not engage/and/or connect to anything. And yes, I tried moving it all around slowly to see if it would connect/engage. I just seem to be hitting metal and no engage. It does go way in. I pushed hard to make sure it wasn't stuck on anything. If it is not going in far enough, then it is hitting something.

 

Any suggestions?

Posted
If I am reading above correctly, one is telling me to put square end in tunnel and the other is telling not to.

 

I did put square end in tunnel. There are 3 sections. And L shaped wrench. The three sections of tubing snap together. Square end inside bumper tunnel. It goes way in. But it seems to not engage/and/or connect to anything. And yes, I tried moving it all around slowly to see if it would connect/engage. I just seem to be hitting metal and no engage. It does go way in. I pushed hard to make sure it wasn't stuck on anything. If it is not going in far enough, then it is hitting something.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Just for giggles I went out and checked mine out. The bigger square end, the one that is to big to fit in the hole that is half way up the lug wrench handle, that'd be the one with the hole in the side for the spring-loaded button on the small square end to lock into, is that end that goes in the tunnel. You will only need two joints of the shaft to make it in and the BIG square end will fit the square male lug with ease EVERY TIME YOU PUT IT IN.

Posted
Either I am an idiot or I got an alignment problem or both!

 

I had a hell of a time with mine as well. There is a plastic tunnel that leads to the socket that the bar locks onto, and it was disconnected on mine. I had to get underneath my truck to align it the first time.

Posted

Shine a flashlight in the hole and see the orientation of the square drive on the tire winch.

 

Instead of putting the entire gigantic tire tool/handle assembly into the hole, simply slide ONE of the sections (the big end) into the hole and line up with the square drive.

 

On that single extension, put the tire iron on it and turn it counter clockwise to lower the tire.

 

Yes I've really done it - under a week ago.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sir, economics doesn't have a moral compass. 😉 Just say'n. 
    • One would think. BUT....This is what a Google search gives for the GM OLM system:    It doesn't measure oil condition save the highly indirect water temperature. It should measure oil temperature and as we've discussed they are not as closely related as one might assume. The algorithm is based on expected conditions at the end of a certain number of miles or revolutions. And sirs, this estimated value is not tilted in the engines favor. It favors the OEM's bottom line. There are no magical number of miles nor revolutions. No magical time limit. There is only what can be measured directly and only in the broadest of terms would the values used even come close to reality.    It samples nothing. It has no idea where the oil started or where it will finish given the limited values use to create the algorithm. It is just a reminder for the brain dead to do something at some time to keep the warranty in tact. Pure fiction.    Key Factors in Oil Life Calculation The OLM calculates the remaining oil life percentage based on the following factors: Factor Description Engine Revolutions Tracks the number of engine revolutions since the last reset, decreasing oil life with use. Mileage Since Last Reset Monitors the distance driven since the last oil change, capped at 7,500 miles for most models. Time Since Reset Decreases oil life over time, dropping to 0% after one year, regardless of mileage. Engine Temperature Adjusts oil life based on coolant temperature; exceeding 260°F sets oil life to 0%.  
    • Towing power and I guess MPG matter that’s why I may end up going with a gear swap as soon as they’re available for this truck if I’m correct
    • If I may, I'd like to post my prediction of the trim levels for the 2027 GMC Sierra, based on what was released/introduced today about the Chevy Silverado.   Using the "Professional Grade" wording already in use by GMC, here are the eight (8) trims I believe the Sierra will offer (comparable Chevy trim in parenthesis): Sierra Pro (Work Truck/WT) Elevation (Custom) Elevation Premium -or- Ultimate (Silverado) AT4 (Custom Trail Boss) AT4 Premium -or- Ultimate (Trail Boss) AT4X (ZR2) Denali (High Country) Denali Ultimate (N/A) If GMC would rather simplify the trim levels, then I predict six (6) with package upgrades in parenthesis: Sierra Pro (with a Graphite package upgrade option) Elevation (with a Premium -or- Ultimate package upgrade) AT4 (with a Premium -or- Ultimate package upgrade) AT4X (with AEV and Ultimate packages upgrade) Denali Denali Ultimate  Let's see if I'm close.
    • I have to believe there are already a bunch of threads on this, but my searches didn't turn up much. While I like the ease of a plugin solution like the Carbyte, It appears it disables the AFM or DFM too, and is not configurable to only disable the auto stop/start. So, I'm looking at the Autostop Eliminator product. I like the idea of it better, but I'm concerned about the install and having to pull so many panels to get it installed. Mines a 2026 work truck, so from what I've read it's a less involved install, but having watched a couple install vid's, I'm still a little intimidated. Might need to buy some plastic trim tools to get it done without breaking or marring stuff. Any experience intalling in a WT greatly appreciated.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...