Jump to content

Lowered Spindle Or Control Arm? (gmt900)


Recommended Posts

Posted

now that i have the back of my truck down 2" ... i think i am going to go ahead and lower the front 2" as well (and 1 more inch in the rear) ...

 

but i can't decide between spindles or control arm (lower) ... not really sure of the advantage or disadvantage of either ...

 

i do know my truck has 17" wheels on it .. so if i am not mistaken i have to do some grinding with the spindle install for everything to clear ...

Posted
now that i have the back of my truck down 2" ... i think i am going to go ahead and lower the front 2" as well (and 1 more inch in the rear) ...

 

but i can't decide between spindles or control arm (lower) ... not really sure of the advantage or disadvantage of either ...

 

i do know my truck has 17" wheels on it .. so if i am not mistaken i have to do some grinding with the spindle install for everything to clear ...

Spindles and control arms pretty much do the same thing although at different points. The lower control arm will relocate the lower ball joint and upper control arm upward by lowering the spring mount while the spindle will relocate the actual mounting point for the wheel bearing assembly. Because of this, the spindle keeps the factory geometry intact which in my opinion is better (but I am willing to hear the other side of this argument).

 

As far as 17 inch wheels go, I am sure the manufacturer of whichever product you buy can tell you what you need to do there. Some people run a 5mm spacer to create better clearance. You may have to do the same or get out the grinder.

Posted

from what i have read on the spindle ... i have to use a thinner nut on the bottom .. and grind off some of the bolt so it doesn't contact the rim ...

 

the spindle is what i am thinking about more .. but interested in hearing about the control arm users as well to see how it rides / handles .. etc ... mostly because the control arm is something i know i can do at my house .. the spindle ... another story ... not sure if i would be up for doing that ...

Posted
from what i have read on the spindle ... i have to use a thinner nut on the bottom .. and grind off some of the bolt so it doesn't contact the rim ...

 

the spindle is what i am thinking about more .. but interested in hearing about the control arm users as well to see how it rides / handles .. etc ... mostly because the control arm is something i know i can do at my house .. the spindle ... another story ... not sure if i would be up for doing that ...

Spindles ride like factory. I'd like to know if the control arms do the same. Hopefully somebody else can chime in here and let us know.

Posted

http://www.djmsuspension.com/Articles/07Silverado2_3.htm

 

thats more of the drop i am considering ...

 

for 2" i don't think the tie-rods will be at to bad of an angle ... but the wheel location when compared to the a arms is still centered ... with lowered spindles .. more force is put on the upper arm because of the shift in the mounting location for the front wheel ...

 

not that either of those things really have an effect ...

 

but still interested in hearing from someone that has used the 2" dropped lower a arms

Posted

every time i have rode in a truck that has had different coils or leaf springs on it ... it rode like crap ... so i am wanting to keep those peices stock ...

Posted
every time i have rode in a truck that has had different coils or leaf springs on it ... it rode like crap ... so i am wanting to keep those peices stock ...

 

Okay, its very different with struts though.

Posted
every time i have rode in a truck that has had different coils or leaf springs on it ... it rode like crap ... so i am wanting to keep those peices stock ...

 

Okay, its very different with struts though.

 

I agree. With struts, the correct spring rate is important but you can run lowering springs and keep most of your ride.

Posted
every time i have rode in a truck that has had different coils or leaf springs on it ... it rode like crap ... so i am wanting to keep those peices stock ...

 

Okay, its very different with struts though.

 

I agree. With struts, the correct spring rate is important but you can run lowering springs and keep most of your ride.

 

 

but a disadvantage of struts ... most lowering springs have an increased spring rate ... and if you go to much heavier (higher rate) over stock .. you will blow the stock struts out pretty d**n quick ... and as far as i can tell .. there isn't a company yet that makes aftermarket front struts that you can customize the valving on ...

 

for the most part you have to have a strut matched to the spring rate of the spring .. or within 5 to 20k miles you will likely have a blown strut... so it's more of a headache to me ...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,936
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    juggernautusa
    Newest Member
    juggernautusa
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 543 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...