Jump to content

Nbs Back Up Camera Tailgate Handle?


maxed

Recommended Posts

Posted

I can't see the cam in the pic but I have a Rostra Latch-mount on my 08 and it looks like it came from the factory that way. Click the 08 GMC link in my sig to see pics.

Posted
I can't see the cam in the pic but I have a Rostra Latch-mount on my 08 and it looks like it came from the factory that way. Click the 08 GMC link in my sig to see pics.

 

Nice! Thanks! exactly what I was looking for......"Rostra" Is that aftermarket? or did the denali come with it?

Posted
Dean:

Who are your bed rail caps made by?

 

Thanks,

Mike

 

They are from GM parts (the dealership). I think the part number (for 5'8" GMC bed) is 17802473.

Posted

Dean: where did you buy the camera from? and how much did it cost you?

any suggestions for cheap online sellers?

 

man this cam system rocks!! looks very neat on you Denali - good choice!

Posted

I got the camera (plus everything else I've mentioned) from Woody's Electronics (the shop I worked at many years ago). I think it was $200 plus labor. I'm not sure how much the labor was since I paid one lump sum for the labor to install the cam, lockpick, bluetooth kit, alarm and laser jammer. The install should only take a couple of hours and I'm guessing the most time consuming part is running the cables from the cam to the radio.

Posted
I got the camera (plus everything else I've mentioned) from Woody's Electronics (the shop I worked at many years ago). I think it was $200 plus labor. I'm not sure how much the labor was since I paid one lump sum for the labor to install the cam, lockpick, bluetooth kit, alarm and laser jammer. The install should only take a couple of hours and I'm guessing the most time consuming part is running the cables from the cam to the radio.

 

 

thanks mate!

 

any idea if there are any online stores selling it? I googled it but no results

Posted
I got the camera (plus everything else I've mentioned) from Woody's Electronics (the shop I worked at many years ago). I think it was $200 plus labor. I'm not sure how much the labor was since I paid one lump sum for the labor to install the cam, lockpick, bluetooth kit, alarm and laser jammer. The install should only take a couple of hours and I'm guessing the most time consuming part is running the cables from the cam to the radio.

 

 

thanks mate!

 

any idea if there are any online stores selling it? I googled it but no results

 

 

It is nearly impossible to find online. I didn't pick this camera, I just went to the shop and showed them the install pics from a member here of the cam in the tailgate cap. His cam was from ebay and was less then $100 but required a bit more work to install. I gave Dylan (the manager at Woody's) the specs for this guys camera and he showed me this Rostra which had slightly better specs and required drilling a hole in a much less expensive part (tailgate latch bezel vs tailgate cap).

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,295 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...