Jump to content

Rear Dvd Help


Recommended Posts

Posted

hey there need some help guys, i have a 2004 2500 silverado with rear panasonic dvd roof mounted. i just installed the alpine dd in dash dvd and the blackbird navagation i used all the pac modules that were required. everything works fine but i need to feed the roof mounted dvd player 12 volts ign so i can still use it stand alone with wireless head phones, i could not figure out which wire to feed it too. i choose not to hook it up to the alpine unit because i may want to add head rest screens in the future and did not want to occupy the aux outputs. so please if someone knows which wire to feed it would help since my truck is still in pieces.

 

thanks

frank

Posted

There is 12V switched and a 12V constant in the relay box on the firewall to the left of the brake pedal (the connections I used were in bottom right corner inside the box, test with your volt/ohm meter to figure out which is switched and which is constant). I wired my detector, phone kit and laser jammer to this box. It's much easier and secure to do this using spade lugs then it would be to try and tap into the fuse panel using those little metal clips with spades.

Posted

sorry i may have not explained myself properly, i know where to get the ign source from. i dont know which wire on the dvd plug to feed it too to get the dvd to power up withoutthe stock deck...

 

thanks

frank

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,992
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    liddlera
    Newest Member
    liddlera
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 339 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If you have actually done it, there must be some secret tool or method of accessing the hidden bolt head that both manifold connections have. Two of the three bolt heads are staring at you in the face from below but the third one is covered by shielding and as far as I know only accessed by removing part of the fender well lining to gain access to it and even then its awful to access or from what I had seen of someone fighting with it on a video.    There is a reason why even mechanics that deal with the awkward or risky business of undoing the exhaust at the manifolds have done the same method others are doing with these L8T by flexing the exhaust if need be or just able to slip the pan out as I did without needing to touch hardware or pry on the exhaust. By rights the two seals should be replace when those joints are cracked loose as well.     
    • Actually it was a lot more controlled then I thought it might be and that isn't actually when I spilled some oil. I had thought prior of rounding up a couple of longer bolts with the same thread to swap out for a couple of the front edge pan bolts and then leaving one bolt left in the back but loosened off and then using a suction device to remove most of the fluid, that certainly would have worked and while I do have a couple of different devices I could have used to suck the fluid, now having done the job once I wouldn't even bother. I had thought of buying one of those pressurized vessels to suck or new fluid in and would if I was doing a job like this on a few vehicles but with one vehicle I just didn't bother and I have pail pumps as well I could have used assuming the hose end would fit into that less than roomy space but being such a thin fluid it pumped well with a quart type pump and just kept the hose into the trans and kept swapping containers and repeat.    What I would change to the method I did though was first jack up just the rear of the truck to put on jack stands to allow more oil to come out of the check plug on the front of the pan ( and as I did, I made sure to put that drain plug back in finger tight ) then follow through by putting the front on jack stands. Also that I would have used a larger sized drain pan in the sense of covering an area wider/longer beyond the transmission but I didn't have one and saw someone else on a youtube video using a masonry mud mixing tub and bought one at a hardware store to use in the future. The main oopsy  I did and why I spilled some oil was all my fault as I neglected to follow my own plan, I should have let down the pan as I did to drain out the front of it as much as would come out but then scooped out the remainder of the oil with the Dixie cup I had sitting there just for that purpose as by that point there is enough room to reach right into the front of the pan and just bail it out basically. 
    • Pretty easy to just remove/drop the exhaust behind the manifolds. They're in no way hard to get to. Maybe 5min of work, and you get the opportunity to put some anti-sieze on them in case anything ever comes up, you eliminated the risk of snapping a stud. 
    • I let the dealer do every other oil change simply so they can rotate the tires, which is a pita at home. 
    • I addition, I won't have a pan full of fluid sloshing around to get all over the place.   I am putting on the Dorman pan with the drain plug. It looks like it is around the same height. I have one of these guys to make life a lot easier.   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CDXJCCT?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...