Coolant System Service Need Part Numbers

[yukondan]

'01 Yukon 5.3 has almost 100K on the clock. Coolant system has never been flushed. Has had a little seapage around driver side water pump gasket. Since I'm going to do a coolant flush and replace Belts etc. I might as well replace the Pump gaskets, With pulling the Water Puimp to replace the gaskets should I also just replace the pump?

 

What are the correct Fel-Pro water pump gasket parts #'s ? (the metal gaskets) and do they come as a set ?

 

What is a good Thermostat to replaceace with ? 195° F. (robert shaw ? other mfg?)

Does the Thermostat come with the Housing as 1 unit?

Any Special gasket for the thermostat housing ?

 

Should I replace the Idler pulley bearings for the Belts?

If yes what are the part numbers ?

 

Any other suggestions for the 100K coolant service ?

[MS3DALE]

Get ahold of "C & A s Dad" (Trey) He works at Carquest and should be able to give you those Fel-Pro part numbers and some advice (He has an '02 Yukon)

[Norseman]

'01 Yukon 5.3 has almost 100K on the clock. Coolant system has never been flushed. Has had a little seapage around driver side water pump gasket. Since I'm going to do a coolant flush and replace Belts etc. I might as well replace the Pump gaskets, With pulling the Water Puimp to replace the gaskets should I also just replace the pump?

 

What are the correct Fel-Pro water pump gasket parts #'s ? (the metal gaskets) and do they come as a set ?

 

What is a good Thermostat to replaceace with ? 195° F. (robert shaw ? other mfg?)

Does the Thermostat come with the Housing as 1 unit?

Any Special gasket for the thermostat housing ?

 

Should I replace the Idler pulley bearings for the Belts?

If yes what are the part numbers ?

 

Any other suggestions for the 100K coolant service ?

 

Fel Pro Water Pump Gasket

 

Part Number: 35635

 

 

Are you leaking? If not why replace?

 

As far as the other stuff don't replace it if it's working.

 

Trey (C&A's dad), with CarQuest, told me they have one that is better then the Fel-Pro. Give him a PM he's a great guy, he'll help ya out.

[99silverado1500]

I put the felpros in my truck and its leak free. I am going to change my hoses this summer, because theres no visible leak but still a small hint of coolant smell.

[yukondan]

'01 Yukon 5.3 has almost 100K on the clock. Coolant system has never been flushed. Has had a little seapage around driver side water pump gasket. Since I'm going to do a coolant flush and replace Belts etc. I might as well replace the Pump gaskets, With pulling the Water Puimp to replace the gaskets should I also just replace the pump?

 

What are the correct Fel-Pro water pump gasket parts #'s ? (the metal gaskets) and do they come as a set ?

 

What is a good Thermostat to replaceace with ? 195° F. (robert shaw ? other mfg?)

Does the Thermostat come with the Housing as 1 unit?

Any Special gasket for the thermostat housing ?

 

Should I replace the Idler pulley bearings for the Belts?

If yes what are the part numbers ?

 

Any other suggestions for the 100K coolant service ?

 

Fel Pro Water Pump Gasket

 

Part Number: 35635

 

 

Are you leaking? If not why replace?

 

As far as the other stuff don't replace it if it's working.

 

Trey (C&A's dad), with CarQuest, told me they have one that is better then the Fel-Pro. Give him a PM he's a great guy, he'll help ya out.

 

 

 

 

 

Not leaking from the seal, Only occasional leak from the driver side gasket.

 

From all my reading, Owners are getting around 125K miles on a factory Water pump. BUT... in my past experience water pumps allways let go when you least expect them to go AND this is the family vacation hauler towing a 6,000# travel trailer. This year we are planning on traveling approx 3,500 miles between June and August some of which will be in mountains (worst place to have cooling problems).

 

I might be overly cautious, but I hate any type of mechanical problems on vacations. Replacing a water pump myself at home only cost a few hours and about 1 tank of gas in todays pump prices. On the road I usually don't bring the Vasaline for a shop to repair. More than likely, The pump would not give me any problems and could go 50K more but........ SInce I'm flusing the coolant and want to replace the leaker gasket. I might just as well do the pump.

 

Thanks for the felpro part number thats what I'm looking for.

 

Anyone have any thought on a good thermostat replacement, I searched NAPA they have several and about $ 23.00 seems the going cost. Looks like a 186° is the correct temperature thermostat.

[Norseman]

'01 Yukon 5.3 has almost 100K on the clock. Coolant system has never been flushed. Has had a little seapage around driver side water pump gasket. Since I'm going to do a coolant flush and replace Belts etc. I might as well replace the Pump gaskets, With pulling the Water Puimp to replace the gaskets should I also just replace the pump?

 

What are the correct Fel-Pro water pump gasket parts #'s ? (the metal gaskets) and do they come as a set ?

 

What is a good Thermostat to replaceace with ? 195° F. (robert shaw ? other mfg?)

Does the Thermostat come with the Housing as 1 unit?

Any Special gasket for the thermostat housing ?

 

Should I replace the Idler pulley bearings for the Belts?

If yes what are the part numbers ?

 

Any other suggestions for the 100K coolant service ?

 

Fel Pro Water Pump Gasket

 

Part Number: 35635

 

 

Are you leaking? If not why replace?

 

As far as the other stuff don't replace it if it's working.

 

Trey (C&A's dad), with CarQuest, told me they have one that is better then the Fel-Pro. Give him a PM he's a great guy, he'll help ya out.

 

 

 

 

 

Not leaking from the seal, Only occasional leak from the driver side gasket.

 

From all my reading, Owners are getting around 125K miles on a factory Water pump. BUT... in my past experience water pumps allways let go when you least expect them to go AND this is the family vacation hauler towing a 6,000# travel trailer. This year we are planning on traveling approx 3,500 miles between June and August some of which will be in mountains (worst place to have cooling problems).

 

I might be overly cautious, but I hate any type of mechanical problems on vacations. Replacing a water pump myself at home only cost a few hours and about 1 tank of gas in todays pump prices. On the road I usually don't bring the Vasaline for a shop to repair. More than likely, The pump would not give me any problems and could go 50K more but........ SInce I'm flusing the coolant and want to replace the leaker gasket. I might just as well do the pump.

 

Thanks for the felpro part number thats what I'm looking for.

 

Anyone have any thought on a good thermostat replacement, I searched NAPA they have several and about $ 23.00 seems the going cost. Looks like a 186° is the correct temperature thermostat.

 

 

Yea, if you're leaking, I'd change the pump also while you have it off. Give your local CarQuest a call they will make sure you get the BEST parts available. Also check out the NEW WP gasket they offer it is said to be better than the one from Fel-Pro. I think it's their problem solver one. Maybe Trey will chime in on this.

[C & A s Dad]

I can certainly help you with some part #s. Sorry I have not responded sooner but I had my Yuk XL working this weekend with my camper behind it.

 

I will address the water pump first and will tell you what I would do if my gskt were leaking and my trk had 100K on the clock.

 

I would replace the WP with a New 51-1813 pump. This is an all new pump supplied to us by ASC, a division of Airtex. It comes with the new style steel shim / nitrile o ring style gasket. These gaskets are just like Fel Pro and Victor supply and is likely supplied by one of these companies. It is not like the original Paper style gskt. I am sure the OE gskts are now of the same design.

 

The stat is a 32758 and is 186 degree as came in your truck. It does come as an unit with the housing and is supplied to us by Stant.

 

You have two options on the idler pully and the tensioner. You can buy the units or just the pulleys. You can price both and see what you want to do but I would suggest the entire assy's. The tens assy is a 38158 and the pulley only is a 38009. The idler assy is a 38159 and the pulley only is a 38001. These are also supplied to us by Gates.

 

The alt belts are: KO60923 for the 105 Amp alt or a KO60930 for the 130 Amp. Supplied by Gates

 

You have an option on the A/C belt. Gates offers a HD Fleetrunner belt for the AC due to the issues with the early 5.3s breaking belts. The HD # is a KO40378HD and the std # is a KO40378. The Fleetrunner belt is extremely HD and this is the same series of belts we sell to Over the Road HD trucks.

 

If you have rear heat, be sure you have it on along with your front unit while flushing. Also, I use a mild flush and not one of the really HD products. Be sure and flush it well to remove all of the flush chemical. When finished, I would strongly suggest you add a bottle of LubeGard's Kool It (part # 96001). This chem is designed to do two things. It will reduce temps a few degrees but more importantly, it will eliminate all chemical electrolysis. Electrolysis is an electrical current that can be generated in a cooling system that can severly damage the htr core, radiator and hoses. It is caused by coolant passing through multiple materials, i.e. rubber, plastic, alum, iron etc etc. If you have really hard mineral laden water in your area, you may want to consider distilled water. If your water is normal, I would not use the distilled water. There are some who feel distilled water can contribute to electorlysis.

 

On a 8 yr old truck with 100K, I would suggest you consider the hoses as well. The likely "look" very good but they likely are not as good as they look.

 

Let us know how this comes out or if I can help you with anything else.

 

PS I try not to sound like I am "selling" on this forum. If you do not have a CARQUEST Store in your area, I can tell you that NAPA's belts and hoses are Gates as well and their stats are Stant just like ours. However, I am not sure who provides their tensioners and New Water Pumps. I would be careful with your selection of the water pump. Many stores have New pumps but they are not OE quality. I would go with an OE GM unit if you cannot find an Airtex supplied unit. I am sure there are other good ones out there, I just am not familiar with the names of the quality ones.

[yukondan]

I can certainly help you with some part #s. Sorry I have not responded sooner but I had my Yuk XL working this weekend with my camper behind it.

 

I will address the water pump first and will tell you what I would do if my gskt were leaking and my trk had 100K on the clock.

 

I would replace the WP with a New 51-1813 pump. This is an all new pump supplied to us by ASC, a division of Airtex. It comes with the new style steel shim / nitrile o ring style gasket. These gaskets are just like Fel Pro and Victor supply and is likely supplied by one of these companies. It is not like the original Paper style gskt. I am sure the OE gskts are now of the same design.

 

The stat is a 32758 and is 186 degree as came in your truck. It does come as an unit with the housing and is supplied to us by Stant.

 

You have two options on the idler pully and the tensioner. You can buy the units or just the pulleys. You can price both and see what you want to do but I would suggest the entire assy's. The tens assy is a 38158 and the pulley only is a 38009. The idler assy is a 38159 and the pulley only is a 38001. These are also supplied to us by Gates.

 

The alt belts are: KO60923 for the 105 Amp alt or a KO60930 for the 130 Amp. Supplied by Gates

 

You have an option on the A/C belt. Gates offers a HD Fleetrunner belt for the AC due to the issues with the early 5.3s breaking belts. The HD # is a KO40378HD and the std # is a KO40378. The Fleetrunner belt is extremely HD and this is the same series of belts we sell to Over the Road HD trucks.

 

If you have rear heat, be sure you have it on along with your front unit while flushing. Also, I use a mild flush and not one of the really HD products. Be sure and flush it well to remove all of the flush chemical. When finished, I would strongly suggest you add a bottle of LubeGard's Kool It (part # 96001). This chem is designed to do two things. It will reduce temps a few degrees but more importantly, it will eliminate all chemical electrolysis. Electrolysis is an electrical current that can be generated in a cooling system that can severly damage the htr core, radiator and hoses. It is caused by coolant passing through multiple materials, i.e. rubber, plastic, alum, iron etc etc. If you have really hard mineral laden water in your area, you may want to consider distilled water. If your water is normal, I would not use the distilled water. There are some who feel distilled water can contribute to electorlysis.

 

On a 8 yr old truck with 100K, I would suggest you consider the hoses as well. The likely "look" very good but they likely are not as good as they look.

 

Let us know how this comes out or if I can help you with anything else.

 

PS I try not to sound like I am "selling" on this forum. If you do not have a CARQUEST Store in your area, I can tell you that NAPA's belts and hoses are Gates as well and their stats are Stant just like ours. However, I am not sure who provides their tensioners and New Water Pumps. I would be careful with your selection of the water pump. Many stores have New pumps but they are not OE quality. I would go with an OE GM unit if you cannot find an Airtex supplied unit. I am sure there are other good ones out there, I just am not familiar with the names of the quality ones.

 

Thank You!

 

Great information with the numbers I need

 

I am going to replace the pump, just had to convince myself to do it now and not take a chance.

 

I'll report back on the progress.

[UGA91]

I'm in the same boat at YukonDan. My '02 Tahoe has 93k mi and started with the slow leak. Looks like I'll go with the ASC pump, hoses, etc.. but have a few questions:

 

*Do the new metal type gaskets still need RTV sealant or just the gasket?

 

*What's the best method of flushing (my radiator doesn't have a drain)?

Just pull the lower hose, refile w/water and run, then drain again or keep it running with the hose in the radiator and just keep it running over?

 

Thanks guys!

 

Wayne

[redvett]

All GM vehicles take a 195F thermostat since the late 1960's.

[bossier62guy]

All GM vehicles take a 195F thermostat since the late 1960's.

 

Not true, my 02 Silverado takes a 186 as well....

[C & A s Dad]

I'm in the same boat at YukonDan. My '02 Tahoe has 93k mi and started with the slow leak. Looks like I'll go with the ASC pump, hoses, etc.. but have a few questions:

 

*Do the new metal type gaskets still need RTV sealant or just the gasket?

 

*What's the best method of flushing (my radiator doesn't have a drain)?

Just pull the lower hose, refile w/water and run, then drain again or keep it running with the hose in the radiator and just keep it running over?

 

Thanks guys!

 

Wayne

 

 

Wayne, my bet is you have a drain in your rad. It is on the drivers side almost at the bottom.

 

If you have rear air/heat, be sure it is on and wide open when you flush. You want the flush chem to flush everything. I use a mild flush, drain the system, fill with cold water and the flush. Run it at least 10 to 20 mins after it is at normal temp. Then let it cool some, drain, refill with cold water and run it another 10 to 15 mins. I recommend doing this step at least 2 times if not 3. You want all of the flush out of there.

 

Then refill with Dexcool approved ant and a bottle of Lube Gard Kool It.

 

I really cannot answer the question about the sealant on the wp gskt. I do not think it does because they are a bead seal type gasket. I am not in a store this morning but traveling but I will ask someone later.

 

You also do not have to worry about Fel Pro gskts anymore. Victor is making the same style beaded gskt and they are great. Just make sure it is a beaded gskt of a good name brand.

 

Hope this helps and let us know if you find the drain

[UGA91]

Thanks for the info. Will get into it this weekend. Hope to find the drain then.

[UGA91]

For anyone interested in the follow up:

Replaced the pump this morning. Not too bad. 1 hr 45 min (without the flushing time). Original gaskets did not have additional sealant so I did not add any this time. The drain plug was on the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side just as C&A's Dad said.

 

It was easier to take the pump and the fan off as an assembly then take the fan off the old pump on the bench.

 

Thanks to the replies and great info here!!!

[C & A s Dad]

Glad it went well.

 

Compare what you did today to the same job in a Camry, Accord or other front wheel drive vehicle with the motor mounted east and west. You would still be in the garage working on it.