Camshaft Swap

redstreetracer36 · May 22, 2008

i have a 2004 sierra 5.3l, i have a cai, flowmaster 40 series, pacesetter shorties headers, and a diablosprt 91 tune..i am wanting to get a new cam but want to get better torque in the low end but isnt to much as its my daily driver....i want to try not to replace any thing but the cam for right now until i find some cheap but good valve springs...any advice or links would be helpful...also what is the factory spec on the 5.3l cam?

Wingnut · May 22, 2008

You'll have to stay small on the cam if you're not swapping the springs too.

redstreetracer36 · May 22, 2008

ok but would be a good size cam that had a bit of power to it?

Schmids5.3l · May 22, 2008

Your going to need springs and hardened push rods, or you'll be pulling your motor and/or heads later down the road. You can get Yellow LS6 springs for $50, and hardened push rods for around $90. You'll need 7.4" rods, unless your cam has a smaller than stock base circle.

http://speed-eng.com/store/index.php?cPath=23_66_571_2146

Any of the top 6 cams (not including the custom grind option) will give some good midrange. The smaller the duration generally the lower the power band is going to be, IE the 206 212 is going to give better low end torque than the 212 218. I have the 212 218 I don't think I gained much low end, but didn't loose any either. For low end torque and mid range, I'd get the 208/212 .554 .558 There's obviously more cam companies out there, but you get the general idea of a torque cam for a 5.3. Most other cam companies are more geared towards racing cams designed for mid range and peak RPM power.

redstreetracer36 · May 23, 2008

wow thanks that just cleared alot for me thanks for the link

Wingnut · May 23, 2008

Hey! You're an Okie!

If you want help picking your cam out, drop down to Boyd's in Norman...Talk to the guys in there, tell them what you want, and they'll grind one specifically for you.

Once you figure out what your lift is going to be, we can work out what springs you need. I may have a set (stockers off an LS2) sitting on my bench that you can get CHEAP...But I'll have to look up how much lift they're good for. I've got a set off of an LS1 as well (I've done two cam swaps in the last month or so and the car owners left them at my place).

Also, if you need a tuner, I've got a guy that's super nice, knows his stuff, is cheap, and will come to you (or meet you at a shop to use their dyno).

Are you going to do the intsall yourself?

redstreetracer36 · May 23, 2008

that would be aweomse yeah this is my first vehicle ive ever put some serious money into it...and well ive done everything myself i could but on the custom cam i dont really know alot to have someone grind one to my specs if you know what i mean...from what schmid has shown me and from what ive seen on other sites im prolly gonna go with this 208/212 .554 .558 ..and i wouldnt mind picking up those springs if they will fit the lift...you wouldnt happen to have any push rods too would ya?!

Wingnut · May 23, 2008

that would be aweomse yeah this is my first vehicle ive ever put some serious money into it...and well ive done everything myself i could but on the custom cam i dont really know alot to have someone grind one to my specs if you know what i mean...from what schmid has shown me and from what ive seen on other sites im prolly gonna go with this 208/212 .554 .558 ..and i wouldnt mind picking up those springs if they will fit the lift...you wouldnt happen to have any push rods too would ya?!

Well, the LS2 springs are gone, and I need to find out about how much lift the LS1 springs will handle, and I couldn't get hold of the guy whose car they came out of...I'll try again this evening. The factory pushrods are laying right next to them.

But I'm not sure about the pushrods...Are they the right length? Aren't the heads different?

As for the custom ground cam, that's why I said to talk to Boyd's. They can walk you through what you want...And grind it accordingly. But if you're more comfortable with a "proven" cam, there's not a damn thing wrong with that either.

Schmids5.3l · May 23, 2008

Custom grinding is the way to go! You can choose your lobes too, less aggressive will help spring life, more aggressive will have higher ramp rates, which = more open valve time, but also harder on springs. I bet they will grind a small reverse split cam in the 21X duration range, that would be an awesome little cam for torque. Reverse splits favor a good exhaust with a not so good intake, so some truck guys are believers in them. With a truck intake manifold and stock heads, with some long tube's I bet a reverse split would rock in a DD tow & haul truck.

redstreetracer36 · May 24, 2008

i think i might talk to sum1 at boyds and see what i can learn b4 i go out and buy a cam i dont know anything about....you have an phone number or address i can get?

Wingnut · May 25, 2008

Boyd's Auto and Machine

1202 N Flood Norman

405-329-3855

There's also a shop not far from you back in the industrial park behind Bob Moore on NW Expressway...I don't think they grind cams though...Just order them/install them.

redstreetracer36 · May 26, 2008

thanks ill be hitting them up later on this week...i didnt know bout the dyno off expressway ..ive seen one of wilshire and council called dynotune they are kindve off in the back(hard to see unless u know where to look)

about installing the cam and the rods and springs would it be best to pay someone to do since i dont know how to do it completely..but i would really like to do the install...i am young but i am looking into going to osu-olkmulgee for the GM automotive technician class in the fall...so i am i guess "somewhat" capable of doing it but would need sum1 who has done it b4 to kindve help out..thanks for all the help that you have gave me so far

Wingnut · May 28, 2008

I think that "Extreme Performance" is the name of the place of NW Expressway.

There's also a Dyno at B&R just off of I-35 and SE 82nd. They're primarily a Mustang shop, but they'll rent out the dyno if you've got your own tuner (not sure if they've got other criteria though). That dyno is the one that was at Powerhouse in Moore until they closed their doors.

As for the install...I'd help you out if I weren't so busy lately. It's not that bad of an install, just time consuming and there are a couple of little things that you don't want to get wrong.

Extreme Performance will probably do the install for you...Not sure how much they charge though.

Schmids5.3l · May 28, 2008

As for the install...I'd help you out if I weren't so busy lately. It's not that bad of an install, just time consuming and there are a couple of little things that you don't want to get wrong.

Agreed. If you have air tools time is cut in half, especially swapping out springs. IMO valve spring removal tools are junk, the ones I've used anyways. LS heads are weird and hard to access springs with the average spring tool. Me and my old man made our own! Free!

The more you torque down on the bolt the further it drives down the spring, and you can use a magnet to pull out the locks. The flat end sits on the head, and the U section goes around the spring. If you have a metal cutting tool or plasma cutter I recommend it, it works GREAT, very easy. I should patent it The real pain in the ass is holding up the lifters. I used dowel rods. Thunder racing makes a tool and a few other companies to hold them up, I've heard good things about the Thunder tool.

Tommo I'm popping off the valve covers and checking out everything, I've developed a very obvious tick, going to check some torque specs

svensk · May 28, 2008

As for the install...I'd help you out if I weren't so busy lately. It's not that bad of an install, just time consuming and there are a couple of little things that you don't want to get wrong.

Agreed. If you have air tools time is cut in half, especially swapping out springs. IMO valve spring removal tools are junk, the ones I've used anyways. LS heads are weird and hard to access springs with the average spring tool. Me and my old man made our own! Free!

The more you torque down on the bolt the further it drives down the spring, and you can use a magnet to pull out the locks. The flat end sits on the head, and the U section goes around the spring. If you have a metal cutting tool or plasma cutter I recommend it, it works GREAT, very easy. I should patent it The real pain in the ass is holding up the lifters. I used dowel rods. Thunder racing makes a tool and a few other companies to hold them up, I've heard good things about the Thunder tool.

Tommo I'm popping off the valve covers and checking out everything, I've developed a very obvious tick, going to check some torque specs

Aww great your ricing around broke the engine! jk lol