Jump to content

Transfer Case 246, Manual Adjustment


BigSilver

Recommended Posts

Posted

Planning on removing the faulty encoder motor from my K2500 2003 Suburban, (transfer case model: 246), in order to manually adjust the transfer case's cam into 2Hi, from the present 4Hi setting. Don't plan on using the 4wd anytime soon, and therefore want the transfer case to focus 100% power to the rear axle. Is there a technician that may answer the following please:

 

a) The direction of rotation to the transfer case's cam, to set it into 2Hi from 4Hi; clockwise or counter-clockwise rotation?

 

b) How many degrees of rotation would be needed to achieve the desired result?

 

c) Using a socket drive, how many ft-lbs of torque could be expected, to make the adjustment ?

 

 

 

Thanks in advance.

Posted

Do you plan on leaving it out of the truck? That transfer case requires that an encoder motor be installed at all times. The shaft sits loose and if turned one way, it starts to apply pressure to the clutch plates. Perhaps if you give some more details on your problem I can direct you towards a repair.

Posted
Do you plan on leaving it out of the truck? That transfer case requires that an encoder motor be installed at all times. The shaft sits loose and if turned one way, it starts to apply pressure to the clutch plates. Perhaps if you give some more details on your problem I can direct you towards a repair.

Thanks for your reply. Plan to eventually replace the encoder, temporarily hopping to manually overide it in 2Hi, since its inoperative (C0327).

Posted
Do you plan on leaving it out of the truck? That transfer case requires that an encoder motor be installed at all times. The shaft sits loose and if turned one way, it starts to apply pressure to the clutch plates. Perhaps if you give some more details on your problem I can direct you towards a repair.

Thanks for your reply. Plan to eventually replace the encoder, temporarily hopping to manually overide it in 2Hi, since its inoperative (C0327).

 

 

You only plan to replace the sensor inside the motor I hope.

Posted
Do you plan on leaving it out of the truck? That transfer case requires that an encoder motor be installed at all times. The shaft sits loose and if turned one way, it starts to apply pressure to the clutch plates. Perhaps if you give some more details on your problem I can direct you towards a repair.

Thanks for your reply. Plan to eventually replace the encoder, temporarily hopping to manually overide it in 2Hi, since its inoperative (C0327).

 

 

You only plan to replace the sensor inside the motor I hope.

 

That's my intention, though it may be difficult to source just the sensor. Napa only offers the complete recon encoder, as do a couple of EBay outlets. So, I may have no other choice but to replace the entire encoder. Have you a source for the sensor?

Posted
GM. I replace 2-3 of those a week. PM me with your e-mail and I will send you part numbers, and a complete replacement procedure.

 

 

Thanks BlueGorilla. You have PM.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,301 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...