Jump to content

Woah! Injector Popped Out!


SnakeEyeSS

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, it didn't pop out, just looked that way at first....and I found a link(lower in post) that maybe be my answer.

 

The Injector or rail is leaking 2000 Malibu 3.1L V6. the middle injector on the side of the engine closest to the firewall has a small pool of fuel around in to the other side of the engine under the intake manifold. IT took a while to find the problem(mainly because I didn't expect this!), and she had been smelling gas intermittently. what is my line of action? just replace it?

 

I'll need a :

-intake manifold gasket(just the "upper" gasket, right?)

 

-a new injector, or just "INJECTOR SEAL KIT"?

-or fuel rail(is the one in back the "left" or "right" fuel rail)

 

-and the bolt torque specs(if anyone knows them, thanks!), but anything else?

 

also, I found this link, there is a discussion in there about what seems to be the same issue a few people have already had, they say just a new injector o-ring will work, I assume that is the "injector seal kit", but I'll just go to a local dealer since that one is so cheap.

 

Thanks in Advance

 

 

Ignore the yellow drawings.

 

injector.jpg

Posted

You beat me I was going to say you just lost an o'ring. It will probably be more expensive than you think. Usually they will not just give you 1 o'ring they come as a pricey set, but still less than an injector. I can do these without totally removing the upper intake but I wouldn't really suggest it unless you have had a few apart and it doesn't sound like you have. Give me a few minutes and I'll get you some torque specs.

Posted

it looks like I'll have to take off the coils to get to a bolt on back, but it looks like I'll be able to leave most everything intact except the MAS and just put the manifold off to the back. Including those(two nut on the back of the coil are gone), I see 8 bolts total......I have at least moderate mechanical skill, between moderate and expert maybe(been working on cars since before I could drive) I'm thinking This could be taken care of in a few hours if I take my time?

 

Thanks again

Posted

It's been a while since I've done a 3.1, this is a job we can do on auto pilot if it's in the bay but I can't picture everything. Tips I can give off the top of my head are make sure that you hang onto both EGR gaskets when you remove it, there is one between the valve and the manifold and another between the manifold and pipe. That one on the pipe likes to fall down and get lost if your not watching out. The upper intake bolt torque is 18 lb ft. once you have that manifold off make sure and cover the intake runner holes, the last thing you want to do is drop something down one, god forbid you do it will find the open valve and you will end up taking the head off to retrieve it. I usually stuff rags in the holes or cut a strip of duct tape. There are only 2 bolts holding the rail in once you get in there. You will have to do some prying to get the injectors to release from the intake be very careful here, I can't remember when we switched to the thin plastic injectors but it looks like you have them and they break. I usually spray some silicone lube down at the base of the injectors and let them sit for a bit to get pliable before even attempting removal. If you only get the lower o'rings be absolutly sure you did not bend any of the clips retaining the top and that you did not pull any o'rings out of the rail. If one came out at all do not just push it back in, remove it and be sure there are no tears in the ring, the smallest deform and you can get leaks. That is more critical on the lower rings though because vacuum leaks easier than fuel and trust me on this it sucks way bad to get this all back togeather and find you have another injector with a bad one causing a vacuum leak. If they will only sell you a set do yourself a favor and replace them all. Oh I almost forgot when you remove the rail be very careful to inspect all of the holes and see that the injector tips did not stay in the manifold. If so be very careful to get them out and reinstalled on the injector. To reinstall I usually coat the o'rings in some silicone lube (the paste not the spray, spray works just not as good). I usually use a little blue loctite on the fuel rail bolts. Make sure the gasket surfaces are clean and put her all back togeather.

 

Wow I think I can do one faster than it took me to type all that. Take a wide pic of the engine compartment and I'll see if anything else jumps out at me that should be known.

Posted

I replaced ALL o-rings, even the ones in the rail....get this even swapped the injector that was leaking with one opposite it...and the same cylinder leaks....WORSE!!! And once I had everything back together? a injector clip popped off....nice, so I spent an hour putting it back on without taking everything apart, beside the fuel pressure reg, which is now botched.

 

 

The car is going....

I'm going toyota(maybe a hyuandi). I've know too many people who have driven them forever and never had a drivetrain problem. GM cars just seem to be getting worse.

Posted
I replaced ALL o-rings, even the ones in the rail....get this even swapped the injector that was leaking with one opposite it...and the same cylinder leaks....WORSE!!! And once I had everything back together? a injector clip popped off....nice, so I spent an hour putting it back on without taking everything apart, beside the fuel pressure reg, which is now botched.

 

 

The car is going....

I'm going toyota(maybe a hyuandi). I've know too many people who have driven them forever and never had a drivetrain problem. GM cars just seem to be getting worse.

Oh, No, say it ain't so. :D

Posted

oh yes, it is. did it today, in fact I had to call in emergency leave at work, cause the malibu leak was so bad this morning. got a lot better once the engine was hot, but still bad

 

newcol.jpg

 

newcolsback.jpg

Posted

I see cousin Eddie made it in for Labor Day 2 houses down; it adds a nice touch to the neighborhood. I'm glad I live in a neighborhood that has covenants, and enforces them.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I work at a Chevrolet dealership & hear it all believe me.  Just reads like there's going to be a fist fight over filters.  Can't get enough, continue!!
    • I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate.    For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank.    In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car.    If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ). 
    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...