Jump to content

Pioneer Avic D3 Finally Installed!


aczr2k

Recommended Posts

Posted

I had few month old D3 I took out of my F150 laying around so I figured I would install it or it was going on ebay. Not much action here on audio visual forums compared to the ford site I'm on. Figured I would post some info I learned along the way. Truck is a 2008 with bose and front buckets.

 

I used a best kits dash kit BKGM317, seems to fit okay, the finish doesn't exactly match, I don't know what the Metra kit looks like. If I knew what paint color would match I'd sand this one down and paint it. You do have to cut a small bracket out in the rear of the radio opening, not a major deal I just used a die grinder.

 

I was able to use the factory XM antenna, with an adapter from My Radio Store p/n 243-3507 ($30). You just need to unplug the factory single wire lead and plug in the adapter cable. The other end will plug right into the Pioneer XM unit. The xm unit is behind the glove box.

 

The most expensive part is the adapter to use the Bose amp and to retain the chimes and onstar. I used Peripheral Electronics GMAHLANB ($200), simple to connect just follow the harness wiring diagram. An antenna adapter is included. I turned the onstar volume screw up about half way. I placed the chime box behind the glovebox.

 

To retain the steering wheel controls I used Peripheral Electronics adapter PESWIPS ($100). The GMAHLANB provides an output wire to connect the PESWIPS to so the wiring was real easy, just connect the power and ground to the GMAHLANB. The PESWIPS plugs right into the rear of the D3. Programing is a bit tricky but after you play with it it does get easier, the instructions are poor, program the PESWIPS for option 2, then follow the manual for the different buttons.

 

I did not hook up the VSS wire, or brake light wire, my D3 is already bypassed and the internal gps calculations for distance are close enough for me.

 

DSC00615Medium.jpg

 

DSC00618Medium.jpg

Posted

I agree. Looks like you did a good job and if everything works...... :D Enjoy a cold one. I would like to have a NAV unit in my rig but dollars are short.

  • 2 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...