Jump to content

Suburban Temperature Gauge Pegged


Mickey_Spiers

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 1998 GMC 2500 Suburban with a 454, A/C, no AIR pump. At 100,054 miles, the bearings in the water pump disentegrated. This caused the serpentine belt to derail and fly off - fun stopping with no power brakes or steering (a drawback to a hydraulic brake system). Anyway, the truck completely overheated before I could pull it over (middle of nowhere in eastern Colorado during a snowstorm and not many exits) and basically drained the block of all coolant through the nose of the water pump in the form of a giant steaming disaster. 120 miles on a flatbed later, a quick check showed that even after sitting for two weeks the temperature gauge was still pegged. No hoses had burst. I've replaced the water pump and the temperature sensor (and the hoses & belt since I was in there), filled back up with DexCool; the truck started right up, seems to run OK (it has a slight stumble which is new, but pulled fine when I accelerated) and doesn't look to leak anything, but I've not driven it much at all as the gauge is still pegged. What else did I fry? I've found no water in the oil (Mobil 1 if it matters) nor oil in the water, but again I've only driven it a half mile in my neighborhood before shutting it down for fear of doing further damage. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

-Mickey

Posted
I have a 1998 GMC 2500 Suburban with a 454, A/C, no AIR pump. At 100,054 miles, the bearings in the water pump disentegrated. This caused the serpentine belt to derail and fly off - fun stopping with no power brakes or steering (a drawback to a hydraulic brake system). Anyway, the truck completely overheated before I could pull it over (middle of nowhere in eastern Colorado during a snowstorm and not many exits) and basically drained the block of all coolant through the nose of the water pump in the form of a giant steaming disaster. 120 miles on a flatbed later, a quick check showed that even after sitting for two weeks the temperature gauge was still pegged. No hoses had burst. I've replaced the water pump and the temperature sensor (and the hoses & belt since I was in there), filled back up with DexCool; the truck started right up, seems to run OK (it has a slight stumble which is new, but pulled fine when I accelerated) and doesn't look to leak anything, but I've not driven it much at all as the gauge is still pegged. What else did I fry? I've found no water in the oil (Mobil 1 if it matters) nor oil in the water, but again I've only driven it a half mile in my neighborhood before shutting it down for fear of doing further damage. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

-Mickey

 

My 95 has 2 sensors,maybe yours does too,did you check both?Same location on the other side of the engine......

Posted
My 95 has 2 sensors,maybe yours does too,did you check both?Same location on the other side of the engine......

 

I only saw one, which was centered on the front of the motor, right at the top radiator hose at the intake manifold, smack on top of the water pump itself. Are yours different? Do you have one in the rear? I'd think your '95 has the same 7.4L that I do. My Chilton's only mentions one for all big blocks so I'm obviously missing something.

Posted

The CTS is the one with a yellow & black pair of wires that go to the PCM the guage sender is a one wire with a green wire that only goes to the cluster. If you have no SES light the engine isnt overheating. I recall the SES will come on at about 247-250F. Yo9u can have someone a use a data scanner and read PCM coolant data its more accurate then the guage.

Posted

SES is the service engine soon. If it didnt come on the engine never got to 247F i would replace the guage sender. Does the SES light come on when engine is not running and ign. is on?

 

Sorry, what does SES stand for? The only light on the dash is the one that tells me to check the gauges. That's also the only light that came on when the water pump let loose.
Posted
SES is the service engine soon. If it didnt come on the engine never got to 247F i would replace the guage sender. Does the SES light come on when engine is not running and ign. is on?

 

Ah, thank you. Yes, Service Engine Soon is on when ignition is on with no motor running. Crank it up, all lights go out except Check Gages.

 

I looked at the sensor I replaced - it is on the intake manifold below the water inlet above the water pump, and has two wires: a greenish/yellow wire and a black one. The only other obvious sensor/sender I found was on the head, just above the exhaust manifold on the left (drivers) side about right in the middle. This had a single purple wire going to it.

 

I also stopped by NAPA to ask for another sender/sensor, figuring I could track down by looks whatever they sold me. They list the same part number for both the gage and the computer, but weren't sure if this meant it took two of the same sensors or if the one sensor did both functions.

Posted

The sender on the cyl. head is the guage your NAPA is on the wrong Platform you have a GMT400 & he is on the GMT800 all GMT800's use the CTS for both the PCM & cluster.

 

SES is the service engine soon. If it didnt come on the engine never got to 247F i would replace the guage sender. Does the SES light come on when engine is not running and ign. is on?

 

Ah, thank you. Yes, Service Engine Soon is on when ignition is on with no motor running. Crank it up, all lights go out except Check Gages.

 

I looked at the sensor I replaced - it is on the intake manifold below the water inlet above the water pump, and has two wires: a greenish/yellow wire and a black one. The only other obvious sensor/sender I found was on the head, just above the exhaust manifold on the left (drivers) side about right in the middle. This had a single purple wire going to it.

 

I also stopped by NAPA to ask for another sender/sensor, figuring I could track down by looks whatever they sold me. They list the same part number for both the gage and the computer, but weren't sure if this meant it took two of the same sensors or if the one sensor did both functions.

 

Posted

Alright, that was the one. I hopped on the online NAPA catalogue, found a temperature "switch" that was for the gage, and that got everything back to normal. Thanks so much for the help!

 

-Mickey

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 506 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...