Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got a pm from him a few months ago but can't afford to do it right now. He said he doesn't check his messages often. He said the price is still 2700 or everything you need. Said it atkes 2-3 hours and he can still get the stuff. He did say that leather material needs to be specified, here is what he said from the PM...

"I don't have any pictures handy, but there are basically three different cooled seats. There are the ones that match our trucks - out of Suburban/Yukon, the ones out of a Denali (which has a different leather material but functionally the same) and the Cadillac Seats (same function, different leather colors and material)."

  • 1 year later...
Posted

any one found a solution on how to do this mod going from what was said you need the floor harness and door switch and flashing the truck email rich but he said he tore down a brand new truck and would not give the info on how to do the mod unless you bought the seats from him i got mine for 800 with 15k miles on the salvage truck so really would not make sense to buy another set for 3 times more money

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

When I get home I will post up the wireing diagrams. Many of these options can't be added to your build so you have to flash your bcm with a vin that came with that option to trick it or actually the gm online programing tool to think it is a truck with that build. Good luck finding a dealer that will do this. Over the year gm has been cracking down on this and will not provide support if problems arise.

Posted

I have a 2007 Sierra non-classic SLT with heated, memory leather seats and DL3 option

 

Anyone has a link to the write up, I have the heated/cooled leather seats from a 2009 Sierra Denali as well as the switches and controls for the door panels, seats are on my truck, but the heated/cooled doesn't come on, and the "service air bag" its on my dash.

 

I am trying to figure out if its easier to buy the door harness off the Denali donor that the seats came from. Anyone please help

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hoping one of the MODS sees this… wonder if when they upgraded the forum a couple years back some of those "tech wiki" links were lost…but surely the information is still somewhere on the server…

 

Also would like to see the writeup/how-to!! :)

Posted

Have you looked in the how to sub forum? I am on my phone and will try and look later

 

 

Ryan

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Ryan, I did a search in the "how-to" section and came up with no results...

bump to see if the tech/wiki is out there...

  • 1 year later...
Posted

i have an AN3 option (12 way movement, heat and memory) on my 2011 SLT and i just installed KB6 seats with the correct door switches (a/c, heat and memory) in door panels.. the 12 way movement works and the heated seats buttons light up but no heat and no ac light or working fan, there is also no clicking under the seat when the bottons are pressed. what do i need to do to get these seats to work? i have studdied the wire diagram to see what would need to be switched but id rather find out for sure before i start ripping apart a 30 pin

Posted

People know how to do this conversion but they want to be compensated for the info. Best bet is to just learn how to wire up a BCM for these seats and hope a buddy with a tech2 can get GM to release the KB6 code

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Guys,
Sorry I have been so absent from the forum.
I am working on a digital document with instructions/diagrams/etc and trying to get some permission from my friends at GM to release it here. I some assistance figuring this out and I don't want to upset anyone who skirted some rules to be of help.

 

Rich

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I really want to do this conversion on my truck. I'll be in the position to do so at the end of October. Its freaking hot in Texas and there's only a few weeks out of the year that heated seats come in handy. At the time my truck was built, heated/cooled was not even an option. With cooled seats, I could go another 100k and be more comfortable doing so.

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,211 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...