Jump to content

Refilling Radiator


Recommended Posts

Posted

I want to make sure I got the radiator and engine block full . is there as easy way to purge the system to make sure its full of coolant ? if so how , I got the res tank full and then some

Posted
I want to make sure I got the radiator and engine block full . is there as easy way to purge the system to make sure its full of coolant ? if so how , I got the res tank full and then some

Easiest way to initially fill it is to remove the top hose at the radiator and slowly fill until fluid is coming out of BOTH the radiator and the hose. This gets the engine as full as possible Then fill the reservoir to the line and run through a few hot / cold cycles while keeping a check on the level. Add to the reservoir as needed to keep the coolant level full. This method works great for eliminating air pockets and eliminates a lot of air bleeding.

Posted

You don't even have to do that,Basically you just "fill it" at the tank....On the GEN III & GEN IV engines you don't have to worry about air pockets due to there being an air bleed pipe on the top of the engines.

 

From the service manual....

 

Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities.

Install the coolant pressure cap.

Start the engine.

Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Engine should reach an operating temperature of 90°C (194°F) and the upper radiator hose should be HOT.

Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.

Shut the engine OFF.

Allow the engine to cool.

Top off the coolant as necessary.

Posted
You don't even have to do that,Basically you just "fill it" at the tank....On the GEN III & GEN IV engines you don't have to worry about air pockets due to there being an air bleed pipe on the top of the engines.

 

From the service manual....

 

Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities.

Install the coolant pressure cap.

Start the engine.

Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Engine should reach an operating temperature of 90°C (194°F) and the upper radiator hose should be HOT.

Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.

Shut the engine OFF.

Allow the engine to cool.

Top off the coolant as necessary.

True... but the initial fill is much more complete if you fill it from the top hose. Less air in the system to begin with means less adding later. I revised that post... it didn't make much sense in original form. :thumbs:

Posted
There are a few different ways of doing this . A truck model will help.

:thumbs::thumbs:

Posted
You don't even have to do that,Basically you just "fill it" at the tank....On the GEN III & GEN IV engines you don't have to worry about air pockets due to there being an air bleed pipe on the top of the engines.

 

From the service manual....

 

Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities.

Install the coolant pressure cap.

Start the engine.

Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Engine should reach an operating temperature of 90°C (194°F) and the upper radiator hose should be HOT.

Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.

Shut the engine OFF.

Allow the engine to cool.

Top off the coolant as necessary.

 

Can't get much easier than that!

Posted
You don't even have to do that,Basically you just "fill it" at the tank....On the GEN III & GEN IV engines you don't have to worry about air pockets due to there being an air bleed pipe on the top of the engines.

 

From the service manual....

 

Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities.

Install the coolant pressure cap.

Start the engine.

Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Engine should reach an operating temperature of 90°C (194°F) and the upper radiator hose should be HOT.

Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.

Shut the engine OFF.

Allow the engine to cool.

Top off the coolant as necessary.

True... but the initial fill is much more complete if you fill it from the top hose. Less air in the system to begin with means less adding later.

 

 

True,I see where your coming from now Jim.

I was confused when you said to remove the hose and fill from both ends,then fill the reservoir,etc.

 

One things for sure,you don't have to worry about air pockets on these GEN III/IV engines,that sure is nice! :thumbs:

Posted
You don't even have to do that,Basically you just "fill it" at the tank....On the GEN III & GEN IV engines you don't have to worry about air pockets due to there being an air bleed pipe on the top of the engines.

 

From the service manual....

 

Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities.

Install the coolant pressure cap.

Start the engine.

Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Engine should reach an operating temperature of 90°C (194°F) and the upper radiator hose should be HOT.

Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.

Shut the engine OFF.

Allow the engine to cool.

Top off the coolant as necessary.

 

Can't get much easier than that!

 

 

Yeah......but some people can mess it up! :thumbs:

Posted
You don't even have to do that,Basically you just "fill it" at the tank....On the GEN III & GEN IV engines you don't have to worry about air pockets due to there being an air bleed pipe on the top of the engines.

 

From the service manual....

 

Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities.

Install the coolant pressure cap.

Start the engine.

Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Engine should reach an operating temperature of 90°C (194°F) and the upper radiator hose should be HOT.

Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.

Shut the engine OFF.

Allow the engine to cool.

Top off the coolant as necessary.

 

Can't get much easier than that!

 

,

Yeah......but some people can mess it up! :thumbs:

 

 

That's for sure!! Opps you were suppose to put coolant in there, not window washer fluid.. :thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,218 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My brother has an Escalade. The warranty has expired so he told his wife to go to the Valvoline quick lube he uses some times. They told her if her car was a 2020 and newer 6.2 engine they wouldn’t touch it. Hers is a 2019, so they did the oil change.
    • The oil filter has NOTHING To do with oil leak. GM sources parts from 1,000's of vendors and as with anything mass produced, flaws are unavoidable.    Putting a larger oil filter will do nothing but satisfy emotions. The OEM filter is designed for the engine and perfectly capable of handling the demands on the engine. Oversize oil filter could result in reduced flow and overall lower oil pressure.
    • You're better read than that Atlas. 😏   British science fiction writer Arthur C. Clarke formulated three adages that are known as Clarke's three laws, of which the third law – that "any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" – is the best known and most widely cited.   Stribeck and the pivotable Hersey Number isn't voodoo nor snake oil. That part is physics. It's what marketing and bean counters do with it that is snake oil and voodoo.    Stribeck is the relationship between Hersey and the Coefficient of Friction. Within the Hersey Equation if viscosity and viscosity is 'Dependent' on.......heat.......and.......viscosity index or the temperature to viscosity slope.    Specifically Hersey is the viscosity AT THE TEMPERATURE IN THAT LOCATION FOR THAT SLOPE.   Hydrodynamic lubrication exist when the film thickness in the location is 3X the Ra roughness of the surface. This is irrespective of the hardness of the substrate. To obtain that thickness X viscosity is required for Y velocity at Z load. That's a lot of moving parts. It is also impossible to maintain in an ICE but nearly possible with a turbine under constant load.    What does that mean? Error heavy and operate light. Wear is inevitable but the rate of wear and the milage obtainable are a function of prevailing conditions and HABITS. The only penalty is viscous drag and at fractions so low as to be well worth the effort. Double the life, half the manufacturing carbon foot print. Greed is the only impediment.    The materials generated by SwRI are the RESULT not an estimation or a hypothesis.    Don't delude yourself sir, EV's have as many pitfalls as ICE's. We just don't know what they are yet and it will take longer to sort as MARKETING and GREEDY CEO's have had more time to polish the turd they are selling. 
    • You can always count on greed to prey on ignorance and stupidity.    Friend bought a 2019 Ford Flex and asked me about using Valvoline R&P 5W30 in it. Told him give the miles on it and the fact it wasn't yet using oil that it was a good plan. He uses a Valvoline quick change shop for his oil service.   First they tell him that isn't the oil the OEM recommends. He told them he didn't care what the OEM thought. Then they floated the, "But it will void your warranty"    His reply was it's a 2019, there is no warranty and informed them their knowledge of the law was lacking.    Then they tell him 'But it will ruin your motor"!.    Mine to ruin he says. Finally they give in and charge him 150% the semi-syn price    Point it the brainwash is so embedded that even the service industry is drunk on their swill. The public is right behind them. Echoing the same lies on every forum and media platform. If the end goal is indeed EV then I'd say that ship is about built. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...