Help Needed, Gmt900 Front Bumper

[AZ_DZRTRNR]

Hello all. I need to know the easiest way to remove the front bumper on '08 Silverado. I own an LS with a chrome center section in the bumper and will be swapping it for a black one off of a WT model and replacing the chrome grill with a black one off of a WT as well.

 

I am going for a blacked out look but want to keep the painted end caps of the bumper. I have searched all over trying to find a how-to but with no luck. Any know know how to do this???

[handsomerob]

GM itself doesn't even have a replacement procedure for that part.

[pchrist]

I have an exploded view of the bumper assembly. I have seen them on ebay as the side pieces and everything not sure if they take them off like that or what. looking to replace my bumper as well.

[handsomerob]

It appears that you have to remove the sides of the bumper and that thier are possible fasteners holding side tabs down.

 

 

[takevin]

I was thinking about replacing my side bumper caps with fog light insert bumper caps. Wanted to see how they got removed too....

[handsomerob]

here end cap removal.

 

[lvlagnum]

Hello everyone. I work in the factory where the GMT-900 Silverado front bars (front bumpers, for you non autoparts types) are manufactured. The Silverado front bar is held together by 18 bolts, 37 screws and their associated speed nut clips. Each and very Silverado front bar is built by hand using computer controled air powered and electrical powered bolt and screw runners. Many of the bolts and screws are tightened to different torques because of the different types of materials being fastened to each other. IE: Some screws attach metal to metal, some are plastic to metal and others are plastic to plastic. Aditionally, when the bar is being assembled, it is held securely on a jig and is not approved for removal from that jig untill the complete bar is in perfect alignment measured in hundredths of an inch. The computer physicaly locks the assembled bar onto the jig and will not release it untill that bar is as perfectly aligned as is humanly possible. For those two reasons , I would strongly recommend that you NOT disassemble any GMT-900 Silverado front bar unless it is absolutely neccessary. These different torques are required to ensure that the parts fit together properly, remain in proper alignment and do not shake apart when the vehicle is used for it's normaly intended purposes. The alignment between the main metal pieces including the two black frame brackets, the chromed or painted centre piece and the two black inner end brackets is critical for the security and fit of the whole front bumper assembly and is almost impossible to duplicate without using the original jig fixture.

 

AZ_DZRTRNR.

I would strongly recomend that you NOT use a black Work Truck (WT) bar because they are only either painted or powder coated and will not stand up to the sand blasting and stone chipping that your current nickel and chrome plated bar will. If you must have a blackout look, I would suggest that you go to a good auto trim shop and take a look at the protective and decorative film coatings similar to the 3M chipguard series. These self adhesive protective and decorative films can be had in a wide variety of colours and textures to suit your heart's desires. A chromed bar with black film on it will be much more durable and resistant to dammage and corrosion than a painted or powder coated bumper would. If you don't believe me, just cruise the used car lots and construction sites and have a look for yourself.

 

pchrist and takevin.

The plastic end caps are not too difficult to remove and replace as long as you remember to properly remove and retighten all of the screws holding them on. If you don't have a suitable torque wrench, hand tight and then another quarter to a half turn like a sparkplug, would probably do. Like the old saying goes: "snug and a bit, ensures a good tight fit". Also, if you are putting foglight end caps on, you must remember to obtain and install a small stamped metal foglight bracket to each side as well. The small black stamped metal foglight bracket helps to reduce vibration which can damage the end caps and foglights. If you are simply swapping out the null endcaps for the ones with foglights, you might want to verify that your truck is prewired for them first before you start. I have heard that some trucks are prewired and some aren't. Also, if your truck has the chromed centre piece, you might want to consider replacing your null painted endcaps with the chromed plastic endcaps with foglights as I think that would greatly enhance the look of the truck. Most 1/2 ton Silverados were built with painted endcaps and just a very few 1/2 ton and most heavy duty Silverados were built with the chromed plastic endcaps. It is my humble opinion that the Silverados with chrome bumper center pieces look much better and more truck like with the chromed plastic endcaps. There is something about a truck that has a bumper that is half chromed and half painted that just doesn't look right.

 

An aditional caution to all of you. Remember that the plastic end caps are just that, plastic. They are backed up by metal inner brackets but if you ever kiss a snowbank in cold weather or a bush at speed with them, they will break easily. If you hit a snowbank or piece of ice when it is very cold out, those plastic endcaps will be brittle and will shatter like glass. That is one of the reasons that General Motors is planning on putting an all metal front bumper on the 2010 Chevy Silverado just like the GMC Sierras are now. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

 

Come to think of it, you might want to save yourselves a whole lot of trouble and wait for the 2010 MCE (Mid Cycle Enhancement) bumpers to become available and see if they and or the new grills will fit your truck. Voua-la! An hour and a few bolts and screws later and you could have yourself a 2010 Silverado lookalike.

 

Cheers, lvlagnum.

[pchrist]

Well i have a dented chrome bumper on the front. It looks as if it threw the end caps out of alignment. What would you suggest to fix that? Thought if i took the bumper off and replaced it with a new one. When i replaced that i would correct the spacing issues then.

 

What would be the chances of you being able to purchase a bumper??? Would love to get the new bumper with the slot in it but just one without a dent would be great.

 

Any info is always appreciated.

[lvlagnum]

pchrist.

In the "good old days" I could get two bars a year for "myself". But that was 20 years ago an a lot has changed. Nowadays, I probably couldn't even get my own bumper replaced without going through all the bother of making an official waranty claim through GM.

 

The last I heard, the "service" bumpers that we ship out to GM are fully assembled units. They are meant for body shop repairs, waranty replacements and such. I have no idea what the retail cost would be but I'm betting that they aren't cheap. I'm going to take a guess and say about $1,000 for each assembled bumper. I could be wrong but you can confirm that by calling a dealer's parts department and asking. If you have a buddy at a body shop or such, perhaps he could get you one at a jobbers price.

 

The other two options that come to my mind are to either wait for he 2010 MCE bumpers and see if they fit or if money is tight, contact all the local body shops, wrecking yards and such in your area and tell them what you want. If you treat them right, they are usually pretty good at finding what you need. Perhaps not today or tomorrow but sooner or later.

 

As far as repairing your current bumper in some way, Without seeing it, I'm going to guess that it's a writeoff. Perhaps not but without seeing it it's difficult to tell. If you have a picture, post it and I'll take a look. I wish you much luck in solving your problem. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

Cheers, lvlagnum.

[AZ_DZRTRNR]

Thank you all for the information. I ended up trading my chrome grill for a black WT one a few days ago and for now the chrome part of the front bumper will stay. The paint chipping is something I have seen on the WT model bumpers and I really don't want to deal with that. Plus the head light housings and rear bumper are chrome so I think it balances out well.

 

Thanks again!!!

[slomo007]

Hello everyone. I work in the factory where the GMT-900 Silverado front bars (front bumpers, for you non autoparts types) are manufactured. The Silverado front bar is held together by 18 bolts, 37 screws and their associated speed nut clips. Each and very Silverado front bar is built by hand using computer controled air powered and electrical powered bolt and screw runners. Many of the bolts and screws are tightened to different torques because of the different types of materials being fastened to each other. IE: Some screws attach metal to metal, some are plastic to metal and others are plastic to plastic. Aditionally, when the bar is being assembled, it is held securely on a jig and is not approved for removal from that jig untill the complete bar is in perfect alignment measured in hundredths of an inch. The computer physicaly locks the assembled bar onto the jig and will not release it untill that bar is as perfectly aligned as is humanly possible. For those two reasons , I would strongly recommend that you NOT disassemble any GMT-900 Silverado front bar unless it is absolutely neccessary. These different torques are required to ensure that the parts fit together properly, remain in proper alignment and do not shake apart when the vehicle is used for it's normaly intended purposes. The alignment between the main metal pieces including the two black frame brackets, the chromed or painted centre piece and the two black inner end brackets is critical for the security and fit of the whole front bumper assembly and is almost impossible to duplicate without using the original jig fixture.

 

AZ_DZRTRNR.

I would strongly recomend that you NOT use a black Work Truck (WT) bar because they are only either painted or powder coated and will not stand up to the sand blasting and stone chipping that your current nickel and chrome plated bar will. If you must have a blackout look, I would suggest that you go to a good auto trim shop and take a look at the protective and decorative film coatings similar to the 3M chipguard series. These self adhesive protective and decorative films can be had in a wide variety of colours and textures to suit your heart's desires. A chromed bar with black film on it will be much more durable and resistant to dammage and corrosion than a painted or powder coated bumper would. If you don't believe me, just cruise the used car lots and construction sites and have a look for yourself.

 

pchrist and takevin.

The plastic end caps are not too difficult to remove and replace as long as you remember to properly remove and retighten all of the screws holding them on. If you don't have a suitable torque wrench, hand tight and then another quarter to a half turn like a sparkplug, would probably do. Like the old saying goes: "snug and a bit, ensures a good tight fit". Also, if you are putting foglight end caps on, you must remember to obtain and install a small stamped metal foglight bracket to each side as well. The small black stamped metal foglight bracket helps to reduce vibration which can damage the end caps and foglights. If you are simply swapping out the null endcaps for the ones with foglights, you might want to verify that your truck is prewired for them first before you start. I have heard that some trucks are prewired and some aren't. Also, if your truck has the chromed centre piece, you might want to consider replacing your null painted endcaps with the chromed plastic endcaps with foglights as I think that would greatly enhance the look of the truck. Most 1/2 ton Silverados were built with painted endcaps and just a very few 1/2 ton and most heavy duty Silverados were built with the chromed plastic endcaps. It is my humble opinion that the Silverados with chrome bumper center pieces look much better and more truck like with the chromed plastic endcaps. There is something about a truck that has a bumper that is half chromed and half painted that just doesn't look right.

 

An aditional caution to all of you. Remember that the plastic end caps are just that, plastic. They are backed up by metal inner brackets but if you ever kiss a snowbank in cold weather or a bush at speed with them, they will break easily. If you hit a snowbank or piece of ice when it is very cold out, those plastic endcaps will be brittle and will shatter like glass. That is one of the reasons that General Motors is planning on putting an all metal front bumper on the 2010 Chevy Silverado just like the GMC Sierras are now. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

 

Come to think of it, you might want to save yourselves a whole lot of trouble and wait for the 2010 MCE (Mid Cycle Enhancement) bumpers to become available and see if they and or the new grills will fit your truck. Voua-la! An hour and a few bolts and screws later and you could have yourself a 2010 Silverado lookalike.

 

Cheers, lvlagnum.

This is fantastic information, thanks for sharing.

 

Interesting idea about the 3m colored film to "paint" your bumper. I had thought of that when I was having my clear 3m film put on my truck but the installer kind of laughed at me saying he had never heard of someone doing that to change the color of a bumper. I will research this and may end up doing it. Installation would definitely be tricky however.

[Bagginz130]

Hello all. I need to know the easiest way to remove the front bumper on '08 Silverado. I own an LS with a chrome center section in the bumper and will be swapping it for a black one off of a WT model and replacing the chrome grill with a black one off of a WT as well.

 

I am going for a blacked out look but want to keep the painted end caps of the bumper. I have searched all over trying to find a how-to but with no luck. Any know know how to do this???

 

 

Remove the cover over top of the grille with all the push clips, remove the 4 10mm bolts in the top of the grille, squeeze the 6 clips in the back of the grille to pull the grill.

 

There's a rubber splash guard in the center remove the 4 push clip things

 

Now there are 2 big bolt heads around a 7/8 or 21mm 1 in the front of each frame rail remove both, crawl under the truck and there are 2 bolts that need to be removed 15mm one on the drivers side one on the passenger side in the bumper brackets you'll know the 2 bolts because just above them is a round piece of steel tubing remove those 2 bolts and the entire bumper assembly will come off and you can pretty much look at it and figure out how to do the rest