Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks for all of the replys.

 

Darin - I am dealing with a different dealer today than I was yesterday. The one yesterday was close to my office - this one is close to my house. I have a feeling that the dealer yesterday was seeing several codes related to this problem and that they thought the encoder motor was causing all of them. I don't think I wasted my time or money changing it out last night - I just think it was one of many problems.

 

I wish I felt more comfortable with all of the electrical stuff. I just hope that at the end of the day - although I will have $1,000 less in the bank - it will be fixed.

 

I now appreciate the simplicity of a floor-mounted transfer case shifter. I don't think you can get those anymore, can you? Probably on a work truck.

Posted

Wow. I know your pain all too well. I went through all that a few months back and still don't have the problem completely corrected. I though have the lock circuit low code, changed the encoder motor, the push buttons and the tccm, I did buy the 60 buck one from a salvage yard and slipped it in myself and still NO luck. I Gave up I can pull my ATC fuse and unlock the front end but the transfer case will not shift to 2hi or 4lo just 4hi and auto. If I need 4hi I just put my fuse back in. I know its not good but i didn't know what else to do. Please post your outcome, I am curiouse to know how you end up. I think I might need the dealer to program the tccm and the new Encoder motor. I ohnestly exhausted myself with the whole deal and simply let it be.

Posted

Gunner, I can imagine you are exausted with the problem - I was after only two days of dealing with it. The final outcome is that the problem is fixed after they replaced the TCCM. I have a feeling that they had to do some work with a programmer getting everything to sync back up - so you might try going to a dealer or transmission shop (that has a scanner that can read and program the transmission codes).

 

The end result for me was a new dashboard switch, new encoder motor, and finally a new TCCM. The switch was me trying to fix the problem - the original switch was probably fine. There was a code thrown for the encoder motor so I replaced that...didn't fix the general "stuck in 4WD" problem - so off to the dealer and there was a different code that said the TCCM needed to be replaced.

 

Anyways...thanks for all of the advice. Hopefully someone reading this post in the future that is having a similiar problem will find it helpful.

Posted

Nathan, congrats on finally getting it fixed. On the bright side you shouldn't have any electrical issues with the 4WD system for quite awhile now. Thanks for keeping us posted. :thumbs:

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Thanks to everyone who commented on this thread. My 2004 Chevrolet 1500 Z71 recently had an encoder problem. Sometimes when I would crank it it would be in 4L or the Neural light would be on letting me know there was a transfer case code. It would always shift back to 2WD with no issues. The problem seemed to get worse anytime the truck was driven over 2 hours straight.

I used this thread to change the encoder motor. It was very easy. It took under an hour and went smoothly. I did need to rotate the transfer case encoder motor shaft a small amount to get the new encoder to line up. I just used a crescent and rag. Otherwise no issues, thanks to your thread. Dealership $800.....do yourself......1 hour.....$260 part.

  • 3 years later...
Posted

I am doing the transfer case encoder motor fix on my 2002 chevy silverado. The obstacle I've ran into is, after I got the encoder motor off I decided to cycle through the 4 different transfer case positions, I can get 4-Low, Neutral, and 4-Hi but I can't get it into 2-Hi manually with a crescent wrench. Is it possible the transfer case has seized up? I did a transfer case fluid change and it improved the manual shifting between the 3 available positions but I still can't get the 4th position. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?

Posted

Tires off the ground and transmission in neutral ?

 

If that shaft falls inside you are screwed , ask me how I know

Posted

I haven't had the tires off the ground when manually cycling through the positions. I've been able to shift to the other 3 positions with the tires on the ground, the transmission in neutral and the parking brake on. Next time I'm working on it I'll jack it up and see if that solves the problem.

 

Ouch.....I can't imagine how the shaft could fall inside, but I'll keep that in mind when manually cycling.

Posted

I haven't had the tires off the ground when manually cycling through the positions. I've been able to shift to the other 3 positions with the tires on the ground, the transmission in neutral and the parking brake on. Next time I'm working on it I'll jack it up and see if that solves the problem.

 

Ouch.....I can't imagine how the shaft could fall inside, but I'll keep that in mind when manually cycling.

Iirc I removed the detent for some reason , and in it went , then the tcase came out and apart lol

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I had all 4 tires off the ground and the transmission in neutral. And while manually shifting I could only get 4-Hi, Neutral and 4-Lo. It definitely felt like there was one more position from 4-Hi going the opposite direction of the Neutral position, but i couldn't get it to click in to place, even with a cheater bar on a stubby wrench.

 

I read another post, where people have been able to get a troublesome transfer case to shift to 2-Hi by driving in reverse and then selecting 2-Hi, I'm thinking if I put the encoder motor back on and try shifting while driving in reverse, that will be my last possibility before declaring the transfer case shot (even though the encoder motor was diagnosed as the bad part by a transmission shop). Thoughts?

 

Thanks,

 

Joe

 

 

the history for this issue is:

I am doing the transfer case encoder motor fix on my 2002 chevy silverado. The obstacle I've ran into is, after I got the encoder motor off I decided to cycle through the 4 different transfer case positions, I can get 4-Low, Neutral, and 4-Hi but I can't get it into 2-Hi manually with a crescent wrench. Is it possible the transfer case has seized up? I did a transfer case fluid change and it improved the manual shifting between the 3 available positions but I still can't get the 4th position. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestion?

  • 7 months later...
  • 4 years later...
Posted

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra with the electronic 4WD...its currently stuck in 4WD-High... I cant seem to get it to shift into anything...Do I need to have the codes cleared first?  How do I tell if its just an actuator? Thanks in advance....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 528 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...