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Posted

Hello All,

 

I have been looking at leveing kits for my 08 Silverado. They appear to come in two "flavors", those with spacers at the base of the strut where it meets the control arm, and those that add spacers to the top of the strut.

 

They both perform the same function (changing the length of the strut and changing the ride height). Therefore why would you choose on over the other. If you go by price, spacers at the bottom of the strut are less expensive. However, it seems to me spacers at the top of the strut might be more durable.

 

Additionally, with a change in ride height, I assume a wheel alignment might be required as the camber would probably change.

 

What are your experiences? Opinions?

 

Regards,

 

Keith

Posted
Hello All,

 

I have been looking at leveing kits for my 08 Silverado. They appear to come in two "flavors", those with spacers at the base of the strut where it meets the control arm, and those that add spacers to the top of the strut.

 

They both perform the same function (changing the length of the strut and changing the ride height). Therefore why would you choose on over the other. If you go by price, spacers at the bottom of the strut are less expensive. However, it seems to me spacers at the top of the strut might be more durable.

 

Additionally, with a change in ride height, I assume a wheel alignment might be required as the camber would probably change.

 

What are your experiences? Opinions?

 

Regards,

 

Keith

I went with the Rough Country kit. I put in all the spacers for a total lift of 2". I went this route because I read on these forums it was pretty easy to install the spacers on the bottom of the strut. I took off the wheel, used a couple buddies, two crowbars (to compress the strut), and a hammer. Lining up bolts was a little difficult. One side took 2.5 hours to do, the other side took .5 hours after I figured out the trick. You could probably even use ratchet straps if small enough to compress the spring. I didn't crack any joints, just removed the two bolts on the strut.

 

Alignment is necessary. I drove for about 4 weeks (*note-i did not drive that often) and could tell a difference. It felt really hard to turn. Got an alignment done and toe was way out of whack. 1.88 sum toe I believe (camber caster were a little off, but not as much). After alignment taking turns were much smoother, when I hit the brake pedal I no longer got shuddering. Definitely get the alignment done. After seeing how bad the toe was changed I would say it is a requirement now, not a recommendation.

Posted

I too went with the Rough Country and did the full 2". Both sides took me an hour each. And a big yes on the alignment, as some have said "I think these trucks were aligned with a ruler" I completely agree to that, the alignment seemed off from the factory, my tires now aren't wearing much like they were before the kit or the alignment.

 

I also thought about getting the ReadyLift 2.25" kit, but it's a lot more money. That's what sold me on the Rough Country kit.

Posted

Rough Country here,For the same reason as everyone else....ease of installation,I did it myself in a couple hours!

Posted

Top Gun Customz, I have the 2.5" front leveling which actually raised the front higher than the rear, but I wanted that, I then installed a rear 3" block to keep the factory rake. Front kit was $90 and the rear blocks were $50.

 

They have all sizes for the front, no cutting for the 2.5"

Posted
Top Gun Customz, I have the 2.5" front leveling which actually raised the front higher than the rear, but I wanted that, I then installed a rear 3" block to keep the factory rake. Front kit was $90 and the rear blocks were $50.

 

They have all sizes for the front, no cutting for the 2.5"

What blocks did you order for the rear, the Top Gun Customz? I was thinking about raising the rear up 1". I load up the rear quite often and it gives the saggy-back look because the truck is currently level. I don't want too much rake, so I figured a 1" difference between front and back would be alright, thus raising the rear 1 extra inch. Am I correct to say that putting in 3" blocks raises it 1" (because stock block is 2")?

Posted
What blocks did you order for the rear, the Top Gun Customz? I was thinking about raising the rear up 1". I load up the rear quite often and it gives the saggy-back look because the truck is currently level. I don't want too much rake, so I figured a 1" difference between front and back would be alright, thus raising the rear 1 extra inch. Am I correct to say that putting in 3" blocks raises it 1" (because stock block is 2")?

 

The stock rear blocks are 1", so the 3" gives the truck 1/2" less of a rake than from the factory. The rears where Ruff Country, TGC's found them for me and sent them too me.

Posted
I was thinking about raising the rear up 1"

 

Thats what I did,I just added 1" lift blocks.

Posted

Used the RC kit, all spacers and then added an add-a-leaf in the back. Back is 1/2" higher than the front and I am very pleased.

Posted

Rough Country seems to be the most commonly used but I'll have to say that I'm most intrigued by the Bilstein struts that not only level the truck, but reportedly greatly improve the ride at the same time. I also haven't read any complaints with the Bilstein but have seen a few complaints posted with the RC having to do with bumping noises.

Posted

I went with the truxxx 2.5 inch with rear block and bilstein 5100's. very happy with the results and still rides excellent.

Posted

what about the kit from readylift, it looks like it add the RCkit + other to lift total 2.25in, so you have to install rear blocks to get your truck properly lifted:D

Posted

ICON Racing 3 inch coilovers with Total Chaos Fabrication upper control arms, Readylift 3" rear blocks. Handles washboard and potholes like a dream. The uca's allow 3" more downtravel without coming near the bumpstops.

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