govener71

Don’t forget though that unless you have the tire height adjusted in the ECM your odometer is not calculating as many miles as it should. You are probably doing better than 12 but it depends on how much height difference their is between your stock and aftermarket tires. There are some calculators out there to give you a mileage adjustment.

I can easy check if it is a heat shield by banging around underneath the motor and exhaust, good thinking, but is there a way to check the other two things? The noise is somewhat inconsistent. It mainly happens when everything is warmed up and has been on for a while. It doesn't happen when it is a cold start and idle. Only a warm idle. Side note about my oil pressure. I tried parking on a very steep hill. My back end was up about three feet higher than my front end. I had no change in oil pressure, so I am thinking it is not my pickup tube seal. Maybe the sending unit screen....

A link to a video of my truck is below with the noise very audible. There is the typical valve train noise and then a lower tone noise. https://youtu.be/WtcCUcn24IA A little about my truck: 06 Silverado, 1500, 4x4, Vin Z, 5.3, Crew Cab, 210,000 Miles, rebuilt motor with new lifters and cam at 97,000 miles. I have replaced the belts and tensioner. Oil pressure 30-45 while driving consistently. Any thoughts about where to start looking or trying?

06 Silverado 5.3 VIN Z 197,000miles I went to use my Superchips programmer today and it began the process and said there was a communication error, reset and then said the vehicle was not responding. I called Superchips and they were helpful in getting me to remove fuses and such but no luck. They believe there is a problem with my ECM now so I have it out and sent in to return to stock, along with my programmer. My question is, why even when the ECM was in, would my gear selector light not come on? It is usually a good indicator that the truck will jot turn over. I have had that a couple times now where if that light was not on I would disconnect the battery, hook it back up, and then it would turn over and fire up. But, if the light is not on it won’t turn over or even try. Why does this happen and when I get my ECM back should that take care of the issue too?

My low rpm rattle came from where the y pipe meets the rest of the exhaust under the passenger side. There are two bolts holding the flange together and mine was loose. To check just tap on the exhaust around it and see if it rattles.

Use a large channel locks. Screw drivers will sometimes tare right through the metal if its on tight enough. Strap wrench might work. But a channel locks can be used all around the house as well. Just get a big one.

It sure was. The guy that machined the heads and did the upgrade builds local race cars. He said he's seen something similar for big HO motors when it's a solid piece all the way through the rocker, but never a nice three piece set up for these rockers. It was a good experience.

After way too much time now I got my truck back. New stock cam, new lifters, trunion bearing upgrade, water pump, new and updated gaskets, all new head and exhaust manafold bolts. After the extended warranty went through all I paid was 400 bucks. Pretty good I would saw for 3183 dollars worth of work I didn't have to pay for. One thing I heard from the machine shop that pressed in the trunion bearings was that it was a very good idea. He was impressed and liked the caged set up. He showed the needle bearings loosely stacked in the stock bearings and said the new bearings and set up was a very good idea. Especially not to put a bearing back in that had been used, removed and then put in a motor that just had so much rebuild work done on it. I was happy to say the least to hear such good things. Now corvette servo.

Is it safe with no fuse in line is my only concern. I do like the pictures that helps a lot.

My only concern with 0 gauge wire is connecting inside the red terminal box. Seems a lot of people go right to the battery and fuse it, but I would like to keep the stock look. Is it possible to hook up in the box on 0 gauge? Everything else is a ground and would be fine but the hook up in that box is my only concern. Thoughts?

Going back with the stock cam, trunion upgrade, new water pump, heads and being machined and pressure checked, new lifters, springs too I believe, new exhaust bolts and head bolts. I am also going to do the big 3 in 4ga when I get it back to try and get rid of dimming lights. That seems simple and cheap assuming my extended warranty holds up, Stillwater siting to hear from them too. Can you think of anything else I should do when I am at this point with the motor?

Today the mechanic called and said the adjuster was there and looking at the motor and was very impressed with how clean it was and how there was no sludge any where just normal bronzing. What was brought up though was the nasty amount of wear on the 4th cylinder portion of the cam and starting I believe on number 6. Everything else looked good but here is what is going to happen to put it back together. Heads cleaned up at the machine shop. Comp Cam Trunnion Kit on the Rockers New lifters New Cam, stock dimensions but after market builder New gaskets and fluids. Nothing crazy but that is all I could think of. I am excited about the Trunnion Kit and hopefully many years of reliable service.

Sounds like it's more important to do that than to change the cam. If the warranty place gives an option I will change it, but if not I will just stick with the trunion upgrade. Would a cam affect my ability to use my super chips? I know BB could take care of it to but my hand held was only 90 bucks. I feel like it would not because the new tune would be saved as the stock tune in the programmer. Hmmm decisions.

What does it do for you? I see it replaces the needle bearing but what is wrong with current bearing? Would you do this with the stock cam or a different one? Thank you for all the input, I am learning a lot.

Just reading about the LPE GT2-3 and a lot of people seem to like it and say it runs like stock, but better built than stock. It also has a longer power band. Not that I am drag racing anywhere. My only fear with stock is if it de-laminates again. I know its not very likely but hey its fun to investigate the options. Ahh its the retune I am trying to avoid. I thought I read that if you go with the LS6 cam the pcm will learn it. My wife is due in the spring to I am trying to do a budget change while I can adding a couple things if I can. If it gets more expensive then I wont do it. But, it is getting new springs, rods, cam, rockers, seals and all the good stuff with it. Its a friend mechanic that is doing it so he is working with me on what I want and the best stuff to put in.