Driveshaft clunk

[2001 HD]

Anyone have a copy of the Driveshaft clunk TSB 01-04-17-004. Nickel plated slip yoke fix. I just started getting the clunk!

 

[slaterx2]

Sorry, no complete TSB publication for you, but, I had mine replaced with the nickel jobbie at 11K.

 

Now, its in AGAIN (some more) for a list of 10 f@rkin warranty items at 34K, same FFF problem(s).

 

Also second time around for steering noise/feel (I dont think its intermediate shaft again this time tho, it was done only 5K ago).

 

Good luck, keep on them...

[racer]

here you go

Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004 - (10/05/2001)

Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke )

1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC Extended Cab Short Box Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

 

with 4L60-E (RPO M30) or 4L80-E (RPO MT1) Automatic Transmission and Automatic 4WD (RPO NP8)

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.

 

Cause

A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the drive shaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

 

Correction

Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel plated slip yoke, P/N 12477702 (1500 Series) or 12477704 (2500 Series). Follow the service procedure below.

 

Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information (SI2000 Document ID # 349918).

Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.

 

Important

Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.

 

 

Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.

Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.

Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the drive shaft out of the transfer case.

 

Notice

Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.

 

 

Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.

 

Important

Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.

 

 

Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.

If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.

 

 

 

Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.

 

 

 

Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.

If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.

Rotate the propeller shaft . Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.

Remove and discard the slip yoke and universal joint.

Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.

Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.

Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.

Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint, P/N 12477702 (1500 Series) or P/N 12477704 (2500 Series).

Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.

 

 

 

Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.

Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.

 

 

 

With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.

Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.

Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.

Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups.

 

Important

If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup

 

 

Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.

Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.

Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.

 

 

 

If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.

It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.

Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.

Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.

Install the yoke retainers and bolts. Tighten

Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N·m(19 lb ft).

 

Lower the vehicle.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

Qty

 

12477702

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (w/Ujt) (Nickel Plated) (1500 Series)

1

 

12477704

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (w/Ujt) (Nickel Plated) (2500 Series)

1

 

 

Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO October 15, 2001.

[2001 HD]

Thanks racer. Mine clunks when you hit washboard bumps. I re-torqued all the hardware on my truck and was finally able to isolate it too the transmission slip yoke. Since the symptoms aren't excactly as stated on the TSB, (starting and stopping) I don't expect them to replace it. Mine seems to be on the transmission slip yoke, but could be from excessive play in the rear slip yoke. Also mine is a regular cab. I guess I'll have to do it myself. I've had pretty good service from Freedom Chevrolet in San Antonio, I hope they do me right this time.

 

Thanks again!!

 

[jobee454]

How much have you guys been paying for the nickel plated yoke? My 00 rcsb has the same problem.

[2001 HD]

12477704 (3/4 ton)-$137.03 at GMPD. 1/2 ton should be close to the same. It comes with a new u-joint.

 

Dealer called and is replacing my intermideate steering shaft assy. (26014447) again. Luckily I have GM's extended warranty=N/C.

 

Can't complain about the service with these guys (Freedom Chevrolet).

 

Later

I think they must have re-packed my slip yoke because I could swear

my clunk was coming from the drive shaft and I couldn't feel any clunk in the steering shaft.

 

But the clunk is gone for now.

 

 

Now I can put my 285/75/R16D Michelin LTX M/S tires on. Woo Hoo!!!

[DEV1ST8R]

Is this something that will continuously worsen. . .or will it lead to other problems down the line if not fixed? Mine only does it when I reverse and turn to the left - something I could deal with if it doesn't lead to more problems.

[Dihappy]

Is this something that will continuously worsen. . .or will it lead to other problems down the line if not fixed?  Mine only does it when I reverse and turn to the left - something I could deal with if it doesn't lead to more problems.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

I dont think it will cause other problems, but it will get worse as the slip yoke rusts more and more.

 

I greased it up in about 15 minutes or so. Just remove the drive shaft , give it a light sanding if its rusty, and apply some synthetic grease.

 

Works, well, went almost 2 yrs without hearing anything again.