Leaderboard

As I recall he bought it from Grandma Walton.

The truck: 2017 GMC Sierra 2500 HD CC, 6.0, 4x4, 80k miles, limited slip rear diff G80 locking differential When I took truck in for service there were zero issues the drivetrain. Dealer replaced front and rear differential fluid. The next morning while backing out of driveway and taking off forward I noticed a subtle miss or draintrain slip for the first few minutes whenever I started moving from a dead stop. Did not occur at highway speeds, nor did I notice it after driving a while. It is always there in the morning when first taking off. I've researched this a little and appears slipping/chattering can occur in the rear diff. What could the tech at the dealer have done or not done which could cause this issue? Thanks, Steve

Still about $3.99ish here. Still payed $2.19 for E85 a few days ago.

Similar issue last week 2022 GMC 3500 AT4. Tire tread separated, front driver side, still fully inflated. No accident, but 7k worth of damage to fender and door. Luckily not towing or meeting anyone at the time . GM warranty will not cover anything. Tire warranty - NOT. Better my insurance than theirs so they figure. Obviously a faulty tire. Owned many GM vehicles , will be replaced with competitor truck with non Goodyear factory reject tires.

So my new to me 20123Sierra SLT has the oem nav and backup camera and the guidelines turn when I turn the wheel. The issue is the lines turn WAY more than I do. It’s kinda funny. The guidelines have a turning radius of a tricycle. Anyone have any experience with this. I couldn’t find a setting for this. I tried to add the video, but it was too big.

This is about what I am seeing in my 2024 LTZ with 7000 miles. I got 19 MPG driving at 60 MPH with a tailwind once so far, but most everything else jives with what you've posted. Comparing to my 2016 Denali half ton 4wd with 5.3L, I get about 2 MPG worse in everyday driving, but about 1 MPG better towing in pretty much all conditions.

I wonder if SAE has graded saw dust as an additive....

Barney Fife bought a car with sawdust in the steering box, manual transmission and diff.

Hey All, this past March 2023 I had my custom 01 dually stolen, my fault for not properly protecting it. I was lucky enough to have it recovered missing a bunch of parts but learned a valuable lesson, like so many other Chevy owners they by passed the stock alarm by going into the lock assembly on both doors and that was it. since having it back I spent the $ to have a proper alarm installed with ignition kill, shock, tilt and glass break sensors and even got rid of the front door handles and replaced them with no key option handles that match the rear door handles, the thought behind that change was to discourage a thief by not giving them an option to go through the lock cylinder. so far so good! my advice to all Chevy owners old and new models, spend the $ to protect your truck if you want to try and keep it for years of enjoyment! if they really want it, they will take it but don't make it easy ! Fred R

Too bad the law won't prosecute, Car theft is a felony. I really don't care if criminals are crowed into small spaces, jail is not the Club Med. I do object to the lack of safety in jail, but we can't have lawlessness in the country. "Don't do the crime if you ain't got the time"

Grumpy, Pride of ownership, protecting your investment go a long way. Keeping vehicles longer is the way to beat high costs today.

I love my Bilstein 5100s.

I think you're right. Here's just a few of my concerns though. Price. That's a lot of money for 130hp and 110tq to the rear wheels. That's obviously a big bump but if you are wanting the numbers they are claiming you will need a smaller pulley on the S/C for more boost. My other biggest concern is fuel management and have they been able to dial it in to where you don't have to worry about melting the pistons down. I have no reason to not believe the base engine can't handle it, I'm sure it will handle the boost just fine as long as it's getting enough fuel. So to wrap up my thoughts, fuel requirements, curves, open loop closed loop. It will work just fine as long as they have their fuel mapping down to a science. I look forward to seeing the actual real world results and would never sign up to be a test case for this project. But it is cool as hell.

The GEN 5 engines don't have that valve cover issue as far as I know. I'd be pulling spark plugs, see what plugs look darker than others. You'll be able to tell what ones are burning oil that way.

You might be overwhelmed because you ordered a bunch of trucks you had no intention of taking possession of.

I think it would be awesome.

Check the vacuum Hose at tge brake booster. Pull it out & see if there's oil at end of tube. If so, you're vacuum pump seal is failing & needs replaced. If so,This has a 10 year warranty on it. ADDED: Also check to see if the original valve covers were put back on of if they install an earlier version that had an "oil consumption" issue. I don't think they would have but like you said..."ever since it was worked on".

In the old school dayz, it was a known fact, if'n one was to take freshly installed glasspacks and hot rod for a few miles to where they were cooking, stop and shove a garden hose in the end quickly, you'd "break" them in quicker!

Takes about 11 -13 miles, or about 10 minutes... It does not tell you when it does a regen. If it happens on the highway you may not notice, unless you are watching a fuel economy screen (like the last 25 mile page) If you happen to come to a stop during regen it may be idling a little faster. Smell generally only occurs during first few regens. Presumably a '21 is beyond that stage. There have been some trucks that had exhaust leaks. If you're smelling diesel exhaust take it in. Miles between regens depends on how hard it is working. Harder work generally results in higher exhaust temps and also more miles between regens. Could be less than 200 miles or more than 600. If a regen is interrupted (like arriving at destination) it will generally 'resume' next trip. If it was near completion, it may decide that it was 'close enough' for this regen. None of your questions were about DEF (diesel exhaust fluid) questions -- the were DPF (diesel particulate questions) Common misunderstanding that DEF is used for regeneration -- but it is not. Regeneration uses extra fuel, injected directly into the exhaust system to heat the DPF to incinerate the collected soot. DEF is used whenever the engine is running. It is injected with a DEF injector. DEF is used in a chemical process to reduce the NOx in the exhaust stream. (NOx is not the black soot that is associated with diesels) DEF usage will be about 2% of fuel -- so for every 100 gallons of fuel it will use about 2 gallons of DEF. The DEF gauge is very misleading -- don't use it as a method to estimate your miles per gallon of DEF. The DEF system will give level warnings as it gets low. If it ever gets to empty, it will allow the truck to go another 500 miles before it starts the first speed limit. Probably going to need fuel by then anyway, and almost any place that has diesel also has DEF. (most all on and off-road diesel today us def). Most all auto parts departments or auto parts stores also carry DEF.

I picked up a GM accessory illuminated front bowtie ($275 list price) from the dealer and installed it today. Looks awesome at night! Here is a step by step to show anyone else that wants to install their own. Open the hood and remove the hood safety latch handle, it uses 2 torx bit screws. It needs to be removed to get the upper radiator cover off. Take out the push-pins holding the radiator cover on and then remove it. Then take out the 10mm bolts that hold the top of the grill in. Next pull the top of the grill out, it has a little catch on all the top parts. You have to lift it up then pull it out. Then grab the grill above and below the main bar next to a light and pull the grill away from the light. It is tight and you will probably think you are going to break it but it will come loose. Do the same with the other one. Once the grill is pulled back you can get to the backside of the emblem. Now you can get the old bowtie out, reach in there and 4 tabs hold it in. Just push the tabs and it will pop out. Once it is out put your wiring through the hole, hook up the new bowtie and snap it into place. Now run your wiring along the upper radiator support and in behind the left headlight. Then disconnect the truck headlight connector and connect your illuminted bowtie wiring harness to it, then connect the bowtie harness into the headlight. Secure all the wires and turn on your lights and test it. It should be fully functional. Ok, now you just put everything back together in reverse order. Getting the grill all snapped back in is easier with 2 people to line everything up. Make sure you have all the tabs and pins lined up before you push it in or you could snap them off. The grill is sort of at an angle and you have to lift, line up all pins and tabs and then push it in.

Mine were done by Kinney's Performance Exhaust Center in Wautuga. Texas. He has custom made double walled stainless tips in polished or black that fit perfectly. People travel from far out of state to the shop because of the quality work. No one will touch my vehicles except Kinney. https://kinneysmufflershop.com/kinneysmufflershop.com/HOME.html

There is no rear emblem on the 19s. It says Chevrolet and its indented into the tailgate

Thanks for gettin back with me! The way you describe it, it seems to be the same. You are probably right about the phone making it brighter. I do like the look of the front end with the illuminated bow tie!!!!

It is the same brightness all the time. It turns on whenever the parking lights or main lights are on. The brightness of it in that picture most likely because of my phone taking the pic. It is not bright and projecting like a foglight but is definitely noticeable at night. I took that picture with just the running lights on.

I got a pic of the Illuminated Bowtie last night in the dark. Its is awesome! It really shows up at night.

You are correct, plug and play.

Looks great, nice write up and photos also. So, it is just plug and play, no splicing or any other connectors needed?

I once changed out the lube in an aging Oldsmobile Cutlass, some one had added a thickening agent to the gear lube....saw dust.