Leaderboard

Can't do it.

Thanks. I reached out to them will see what they say.

Have you made the service center at your preferred dealership aware of these concerns? If not, we would love to help and get you into a dealer who can help. Please email us at [email protected] so we can learn more. By sending us a message, you consent to the information you provide being monitored and recorded by GM or those acting on GM’s behalf, subject to the GM Privacy Statement: https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.

We are here to help, Jacob. So we can learn more and connect you to a dealership who can assist, please email us at [email protected]. In your message, please be sure to include your VIN. By sending us a message, you consent to the information you provide being monitored and recorded by GM or those acting on GM’s behalf, subject to the GM Privacy Statement: https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.

LOVE IT!!

Responded to a "one hit wonder"...... Kind of like you guys (bots) are when responding with "your concerned" replies that never go anywhere or resolve issues. Or update with resolutions to customer you're so concerned about. Now I see the bot responded to the one hit wonder again. This is the same stuff that is on 5th Gen Ram. Ford dropped their social media group on the F150 forums this year. Same thing.... Nothing comes of it.

Nine weeks to the day from official order to delivery to the dealer. I will take possession this Friday. In 2020, I waited just over 6 months for my 2021 AT4 and in 2017 it took over 3 months to get a Denali. A little over 2 months isn't too bad......

If you're like me, you like to keep them for a long time. That means the manual gate will piss you/her off for a long time. I'd be talking to the sales person and finding what it would take to move up one trim level. For 2025 model, LS is the only trim without power lift.

I ended up replacing my 15 LTZ with a 14,000 mile '18 LTZ 6.5 bed (Looks, smells and drives like new) comparably equipped because I wasn't willing to deal with the high probability of reliability issues with a new one. For the price difference between a new one and what I paid for the '18 I can get extended warranty's to take me to the 10 yr 150K for drive train and still have money in the pocket. Plus it will be much less likely to leave me sitting without a vehicle for a long time while GM tries to find parts to repair it. Getting 23mpg driving 70mph on the interstate empty, good enough for me from a 6.2. With the current mileage and how much I drive, this will probably last me long enough to not need a truck again when I need to replace it. Note to GM - your truck reliability problems made for a missed sale to me.

Tread lightly. I own my favorite year model run of GMs. I put about one million miles looking at a similar dash owning several from 2001 through 2006 models. I have no reason to own my avalanche except if it’s gone, it will be the last. My favorite was a 2006 avalanche. Finding the Ridgeline for a minute thinking of selling my avalanche. A sinking feeling filled my body. I don’t have a collector car anymore except my wife’s. I gave my avalanche collector car status in my mind. I treat it that way. Peace of mind returns.

My BTDiesel Autosync works well with my after market radio from AutoTech Pro. I just have to select "console" from the menu. I'll post a BTDiesel screen tomorrow, if that helps.

This thread has been a bit of an exploration of a few topics but has been blended with mudflaps for the last couple of pages, it wouldn't be my fault would it LOL. I thought the rear wheel wells of those trucks I looked at today had liners although I can't claim that with 100 percent certainty. The front definitely has the liners since that is the way the truck is designed. But as to what I stated about these units only fitting on the standard length factory splash guard bolt on pieces, that I am sure of as they look exactly like the factory pieces on the rear of each wheel well as the ones I pictured of my truck with the kick back style flaps I decided to buy are through a non GM outfitter as they are popular here in part because they "Bullet Proof" brand are made in Alberta but a few companies out there make their own version of a similar thing. If you had a chance give them a call and quote those weathertech part numbers and see if they even handle them and if so what feedback you can get through them, and if they do fit on a rear wheel liner truck ( and he can confirm about which GM factory rear splash guard its designed for ). You will soon find out if its an item they even bring in. Here its a popular thing to put mud flaps of some sort on a pickup front and rear unless its a city dweller that never goes off the pavement, same with running boards to try and protect the rocker panels from rocks and also assists in preventing some mud spray up the body sides.

I would say to reach out to https://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/ as Chris White would probably have the most knowledge about if this could be done and what would be needed.

Doesn't Ford put a chassis damper on the rear of the frame - something of a harmonic resonance? Seem to recall something like that on my father-in-laws truck. For comparison, both our trucks are configured similarly his a Ford and mine a Chevrolet. The only difference between them is his is a long bed compared to my short bed. His rides noticeably better, that I attribute to the longer wheel base. A co-worker has a 3/4 ton Ford in similar configuration except 3/4 ton, and gas engine, rides more comparable to mine.

Jun 13th, 2024 brought 300k miles. Clyde is still trucking, though there have been some developments. Currently north of 326,000. Drivetrain: at 252,064 miles in August of 22 I developed a substantial misfire that significantly affected drivability. Made it home and attempted to diagnose the issue. New plugs and wires didn't solve the issue, and a new MAP sensor (was throwing a MAP sensor code and Cylinder 2 misfire). Injectors did not solve the issue either. Compression testing on Cylinder 2 suggested a massive issue as there was none, so I limped to the dealer. A teardown found likely the intake valve failed and eventually took the exhaust valve with it. The cylinder head took a beating, as the valve seats were damaged severely in a couple spots, and the piston was cracked all the way through. Due to costs related at the least to a removal and replacement, I decided on an engine replacement. I found a brand new engine out of Michigan Motorz for truck applications at $8,000, and the dealer installed it for another $6,000. I had initially suspected the original engine was toast, but I didn't have to turn it in for a core so I stuck it in storage. After a brief inspection the cylinder 2 wall appears to have survived. Unscathed. Further inspection is naturally merited, but I believe I have a rebuildable block on my hands. The new engine runs like a top, burns no oil, runs at temp, and gets slightly better fuel economy. Break in was textbook as I followed a 55mph speed limit with a rev limit of 3,000, no racing starts, no lugging, and generally gentle driving for the first 500 miles. Oil analysis shows the engine wearing in well. Interestingly the oil analysis showed no signs of failure prior to the valve drop. A couple hours prior to the valve drop I completely drained the tank and coasted to a stop at a pull off on the side of the interstate. I did 2 cranks at 10 second intervals, so that may have have something to do with it. I've been much more vigilant about gambling with fuel economy, and ran out once since then with immediate shutdown and no restarts. I leave myself a buffer of about 10 miles to empty before I stop to refuel.

Any play in the water pump pulley?

My Hypertech Max Energy programmer has a setting to reduce tq converter slip. There are 3 levels; Stock, Street, and Economy. I have mine set on economy which has the least amount of slip. Between that, the thermostat pill flip, and replacing 5 qts of fluid every year (roughly 10k miles) maybe my 6L80 will live a long happy life. Fingers crossed

The software to download on your computer is free. The OBD module is $400.00. It cost $100.00 to unlock a 2014 to 2016 truck and $200.00 to unlock a 2017 to 2019 LD truck.

The inner wheel well gaps were collecting rocks so I followed the TSB and BURIED both cavities with frame wax. No wheel well rust through and no more rocks. Box is doing well and Line-X liner is holding up well. Color match is wearing well. I finally installed my tonneau cover at 304k and should have put it on in 17 when I got it. So nice to have the bed contents out of the weather, not as involved with removing it as I had thought, and I got a nice fuel economy bump from it. Interior is mostly stock, RF door panel (crack), RR door panel (scratches), RR and LR C pillar trim (gouges) have been replaced following body shop trips but otherwise no issues. Driver seat foam was replaced at 215K. Infotainment, interior lighting, and dash lights all function as designed. No issues with the cooling system, radiator was replaced at 252K with the engine and cooler lines for concerns of metal in the oil. Alternator and belt drive were replaced at 256k for noise concerns but otherwise make it about 90k. Brakes were last touched at 150k. No issues whatsoever. Fluid flushes continue at 45k intervals. Waxing the wheels after stripwashing, claybar treating them, and polishing works very well. Now on Michelin Defender LTX M/S2 tires. They are amazing and work very well. Battery was replaced with the engine as I discharged it limping to the dealer. Replaced for free under warranty. U joints were serviced on the main driveshaft when I did the pinion seal. Front shaft looked, felt, and operates fine so I have new parts but continue to monitor. Excellent all around vehicle. Great on long drives, great for bombing around town, great for work (usually save that for the work car), and great for hauling. 15/10, would buy again.

The catalytic converter started failing at about 290k, with a P0420 code recurring. Cataclean did nothing so I opted for a new assembly to maintain full functionality. Problem solved and fuel economy slightly improved. Transmission is behaving well. No concerns at fluid changes and the trans cooler line (factory part) was replaced at 293 due to a persistent weep at the rubber/metal junction in front of the right frame rail. Following my thermostat delete I opted to take the guts from a revised 6 speed tstat (opens fully at 158) and install them into a body for the 8 speed at 221k. Following that mod I have consistent temps from about 140-158, and temps have gotten only as high as 185 with spirited mountain driving. Four Wheel Drive is operating flawlessly. Front hubs were replaced at 242 for suspected sound, though there were no other wear indicators. I suspect I was being far too cautious. Struts and shocks in the rear were serviced at 306k. The Pinion seal for the rear differential was serviced at 312k and I did it right because no more leaks and no new vibrations or sounds. Followed the shop manual for the most part. Frame is good. Surface rust that responds well to frame wax sprays and/or Amsoil MP HD. Right Rocker was replaced due to incompetent prior shop, as well as the RF fender. No more Prazma work present anymore. Some rust on the LR wheel well outer surface above the tire and the right inner rocker was removed and the area repainted. No issues since. Both inner rockers were bombarded with cavity wax.