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Texanfisherman

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Everything posted by Texanfisherman

  1. Just to clarify, you put a 3.5 rough country kit on and now you want to upgrade your control arms?
  2. Yes, a-arms/UCAs same thing. This is what I am banking on: https://www.jackit.com/bds-121260.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9deiBhC1ARIsAHLjR2AH8h5vX_coGf8m9IH8Lxcw94-iiPk3Z34gA3d21xnTpKfHIzrYd4QaAqlMEALw_wcB Same setup they use in their 4 or 6 lifts. Just in case I want to go higher later. More expensive, but hard to find anyone dissatisfied with BDS and their quality.
  3. The 275/65 will fit without a level kit. Possible that an extreme tread may rub a little, but it will fit. If you want to level on the cheap, I personally would not install anything more than a 1” without also replacing a-arms to correct geometry and improve the ball joint. Just my $.02. I have the silverado with the factory 2” and will do the BDS arms when I swap the tires. I will run a 295/65 with a 2” level and the BDS arms.
  4. I was hoping to see what someone has done to resolve this. With the fade all the way to the back and the volume up, the sound is not only substantially lower than the fronts, but also not very full or clear. It is as though the speakers are not full range speakers and the tweeter is missing. Back seat passengers get a poor audio experience and I have to do a fair amount of adjustment to balance it and one would expect better from not only Bose, but a ~$60K pickup. Although not a deal breaker, it is annoying.
  5. 2022 LTD LTZ Duramax, factory 2", high clearance steps, red tow hooks, bakflip revolver bed cover. Needs less chrome up front, different wheels and bigger tires.
  6. The “amp” is not an amp. It is a sound processor. It is required for the non-bose system. The bose system already has the processor and does not require an additional. Hope this helps.
  7. I have the same harness and glad to have it. This has happened to me exactly one time in 4K miles. I read up on it and there is a link between having the autostop off and the stutter. I ran it a few times with autostart on and then put it back to off. Hasn’t happened again. Yet.
  8. In this particular case, it is actually a longer strut with 2” more travel. This is different than a preload setup where the spring is compressed by inserting a block above or below the strut. That is the reason for the longer dog bones. In addition, I just traded my ‘19 Z71 with a lower block 2” level. I bought a trail boss and the ride is substantially smoother even with the MT tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Sounds like your decision might be made and my input may not be helpful, but I have a revolver on my truck and it is the second truck this particular cover has been on. Can’t speak to snow as we have only recently seen any volume of that, but rain and heat don’t seem to have any negative impact. I haven’t much moisture in the bed even in a driving rain. I roll the cover all the way up and clip it whenever I haul something as it is easy. My cover also has the optional Bak box which I keep tools, tie-downs, jack stands, and a floor jack in. Keeps things off the bed floor so I can still use the high majority of the bed. My rating would be high and this is the third Bak product I have owned. It’s not flawless, but it is very versatile and what I was after. Good luck and happy hunting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Not sure about issues with rubbing the CV boot, but I most recently had a lower aluminum 2” kit from ReadyLift. In 30k miles, there were no issues of any kind. My preference is the lower just based on ease of installation. Putting the upper in just requires pulling the whole strut. Many people will have many different reasoning, and that is mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks for sharing! That does look good.
  12. Do you have pics of it installed? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I bought them from Rough Country as well. The were a little hard to find on their site, but they are tapered part # 6592 and do a good job. You’ll have to buy the new u bolts. I already had some from a previous truck, so they worked. I also bought the aluminum level kit part # 1313.
  14. Michelin LTX AT2 LT275/65/20. 2” Rough Country level front and 2” block rear. Rides fantastic. No rubbing. No trimming. These should last another 75k miles until an upgrade to a 4”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. That’s awesome news. Thank you for sharing. Now I’m on the hunt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. We’re you able to figure out the wiring? What about the AC rear vents? Any install pics? Did you have to find hardware or does it mount up exactly as the jump seat? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Can you share some pics and details about the amp and speakers you used in place of stock? I, too have a non-Bose and want to amp and replace the stock speakers. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Definitely wanting to see the console install. Power folding mirrors on an LT trim would also be excellent. Those are the only two things I really want on my truck that it didn’t come with. The dealer just didn’t have my truck with buckets on the day I went in and I didn’t want an LTZ this time mostly because I really wanted red hot color. So, here I am in want of console and mirrors. I know@pgamboa has the answers I am awaiting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Had some other things to do at the dealer so I mentioned this since I was showing 80% life at 2K miles. They inspected the pads and found them at slightly less than 100%. They reset the indicator and sent me on my way. As such, I removed the brake wear indicator from the displayed items and am blissfully unaware of its reading.
  20. Bump. Any intel on this topic? Interested in possibilities for power fold and lighting.
  21. X2 on this. I just ran into the same question. Why would composite leaf spring make a difference? On the accessories site, that’s what the restrictions cite.
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