calgator73

Yes you can. Someone else on this forum has done that very thing. It's a bit of a trade-off in my opinion if you're looking for the articulation and the ride then you go with the springs in the DSSV kit. If you're willing to give up some articulation and keep payload capacity then you stick with the factory springs. Not sure on the ride quality in that situation. You would have to drive both of our trucks back to back and see which one suits you.

Too many variables. But if I was going for the ultimate in longevity and I was going to drive it like a half ton pickup... I would buy a 3/4 ton gasser. If I had to buy a half ton and I had to keep it for that long and I wanted no possibility of malfunctions or okay that's not possible but much less possibility. I would go for a work truck trim with no bells and whistles to break. Maybe find a naturally aspirated V6.

No real issues as the water doesn't pool. It tends to run forward as you roll and spills to the sides and forward bulkhead. If it rains tomorrow I'll get pics of the leaks.

Yep. I'll take a picture tomorrow.

Aerospace 303. Also good for tires and practically everything.

My 2015 (for my 2500) had the roll-x and it lasted three years until I sold the truck with minor degradation to the felt on the underside. I never treated this one. In June '21 I purchased the upgraded x4s for my 20 AT4 and after about one year noticed that the vinyl seemed to be wearing abnormally with no treatment. At the time I was going through the local scratch and shine several days a week. After the warranty swap in Aug 22 I started treating the vinyl quarterly and mostly hand wash. No issues since then.

That's a tough one. 22's on a truck typically suck on anything short of something with mag-ride due to reduced sidewall. In order to install this you must have the at4 suspension first then upgrade to the zr2/at4x. Costly unless you get all the parts used. To get you as close as possible before you buy...drive an at4x understanding that it does have 18s then drive a at4 with 18s. Pay close attention to how the trucks respond to hard braking, hard cuts to the wheel and normal impacts. I think you'll find that you have less nose-dive, flatter cornering and a less disturbed ride with the at4x suspension compared to the at4. Worth it? Depends on how obsessive you are. Positively love my truck now. I can drive fast on horrible roads and my wife doesn't perceive anything except the speed warning. Fly across railroad tracks with little regard to anything. I will be switching back to factory size/weight tires to restore fuel economy/performance lost due to high unsprung mass (LT305/55r20 weigh almost 60lbs each compared to factory @ 40lbs). Haven't towed anything yet but I think the sag will be noticeable with the softer springs.

Check out BAK Revolver X4s. It has the aluminum slats, covered in vinyl so no leaks and fits tightly to the locking tailgate which minimizes the odds of someone easily getting in. I've been using this and the predecessor since 2015. Just use 303 to keep it looking good.

I'll check it out when I get back see if I can find a tag or part number on the spring pack.

It's a different part number than the 2 inch lift.

Think dorman does. Why the change?

My bet is open and using traction control to fake an LSD until you manually lock the axles. https://markenperformance.com/n-12841-eaton-locking-differentials-application-chart-elocker.html

No problem

I'll pull it out later and take a few...nothing really to see other than the shocks...tires cover everything up.

Qualitatively it's night and day difference between the 1500 and 2500 regardless of the similar stats. Pulling an 11k trailer with 1300lbs of tongue was rough with the 1500 nht. 3/4 Duramax was much more composed.

A lot of GM dealers are no longer offering GM extended warranties. My dealership does not offer them however they do honor them. On my last two trucks approaching 3 years you'll get a series of emails from GM protection plan.

I pay 25 for the data plan and 9 for the basic Onstar

I use the one from GM accessories... It works absolutely fantastic. Don't use the stick-on because they have a very hard time adhering and they will tend to fall off after a while. They do have holes so you can use self tappers to keep them lined up. The only real thing you need to pay attention to is the control module cannot go behind the rear tires it's not weatherproofed nearly enough. Instead there's enough harness length to tuck it up into a space between the hitch and the spare tire up high and you can zip tie the bundle up there that keeps it out of any water spray. I also added silicon caulking to the wire penetrations into the box to make sure nothing could get in. The only reason I know this last part about the install was when the dealership put mine on originally they did a really crappy job using stick-ons which failed the wiring bundle which fell out from underneath the truck and the control module wass tucked behind the driver side rear tire and eventually shorted out causing fuses to blow for the tail lights. One other thing you can use to help you out are all the connections should be filled with dielectric grease before connecting. I'll try to find photos later of my install and the performance of the lights but it was a couple years ago

Thank you for the correction.

It sounds like your brake linings are overheating trying to compensate due to loss of traction. I'm assuming that you were running 4 auto with traction control engaged. Probably should be 4high which also disables traction control and stability control.

Dealer finished installing the DSSV package to include the rear leafs yesterday. Interstate: Very controlled on road feel. No Bilstein harshness and no floaty rancho. Crossing bridges with the typical large dips results in no passenger head movement or pogoing effect. Just smooth and controlled. State hwy: slightly rough road but the suspension seems to know even to release and float and when to give the right control... But never any harshness.

Easiest way: Sign up with TransUnion and pull a 3 bureau report. Credit scores are usually free. Dispute the errors. It takes up to 30 days for a lender to respond. If they don't you're done. If they confirm ..dispute again. Now they have to provide written proof to the bureau. Sit back...watch your credit score rise as the errors fall off.