morrislee

I had it at stock when I had them test for the issue, they said they could not replicate the issue when I could and even got it on the video. They said when they were testing, it was functioning as it should. Pay them returning to stock for what? They wont be able to find the problem anyway. Afterall, if when I returned it to stock myself, they already said it is functionjng as it should, why pay them and most likely that it wont do anything other than having to wait a few more days to hear that the "problem" is not there.

RPM is still fluctuating and jumps up to 1800 to 1900 rpm range during cold temp and when the truck is still cold. Dealership found my posts here and said I have a tune and unwilling to do further testing unless I pay them to reflash the computer to get it back to stock. Even though this happens when I remove the tune, and only happens when the ambient temperature is cold, it is more of a mechanical problem than a programming problem. I find the dealership automatically pointing finger at the tune without processing the information through the brain is just rude. And I have seen this happen at different temperature reading on the gauge, so it is not the temperature reading triggering the issue. Really need some pointer guys, I am out of ideas

Nope, not cruise control, happens both up, down and flate roads. The slope was not very steep at all. Only a slight angle and I was trying to prove that even little resistance still jumps RPM Had a check engine light on the way home today, it was P219A, maybe I had ice in the fuel?? Fresh tank of 91 shell v-power and see if it makes it smoother

i got it back yesterday after the converter replaced, did it again this morning. Here is a video of it happening at 1:35

Got my truck back, did not have the problem occur just yet, drive from dealer to home was too short, time will tell. They replaced whole bunch of things, while they replaced the converter, they saw crack at the radiator, apparently it is a "common issue" so it was replaced the same day they replaced the torque converter. Replaced a temperature sensor or some sort related to coolant and a gasket.

I have sprayed WD-40 over the rust areas, seems to stop the rust from growing after observing for almost half a year now. It also makes it darker so it is harder to see the rust

Got my truck back while they are ordering the torque converter. Did more testing, looks like the torque slipping happens at 5th gear too if you hold a steady speed long enough. 5th gear was keeping up at 100km/h at 2000rpm, later on, it jumped up to 2100~2200rpm and fuel eco was at 18L/100km was also showing! If you have the above symptoms, dont let it go. I am sure if you dont get it fixed, it will get worse!

Dealership had to test drive it twice (after they told me they could not reproduce the issue) They detected the torque converter slipping allowing a spike of up to 150RPM which was outside of the factory tolerance. They have agreed to replacing the torque converter. Wish me luck!

Didnt do this before, something is definitely wrong and ever since I start seeing this, the economy went down the drain

Doesnt sound like mine is doing what it is suppose to be doing then. and no, I have lowered the gear to 5th when this happens, RPM jumps even higher!

Most likely going in on Tuesday morning for a drive with them if they are not sure of what I am referring to as they are unwilling to drive it around for 30 minutes to 1 hour to see the problem themselves I am betting this too, hoping this would be the only issue. Definitely not this, if you see what I have done already in my original post, it does it when I have AFM disabled. When I am hovering at V4 as the indication in the instrument cluster, it does it too from time to time.

I had rattle right on the light sensor right under the windshield (tiny half circle shaped object). When the noise occur, hold that thing down stops it. My Homelink garage opener button's panel trim also does some too. Try the above 2 and good luck!

Disabled V4 AFM using diablosport, so not AFM. Tuned it back to stock, same thing. Dropping it off on Saturday.

Recently, my truck has been doing something weird. I dont think it was doing this before but it is doing it lately. During my normal commu on highway, I notices it hovers just above 1500RPM when traveling at 100km/h. Recently, it feels like slipping or misfiring as the needle jump about 1-3 millimeters up and down when I cruise normally at 100 and after a while, it ramps up to ~1800 to stay at that speed. It takes a few more minutes of driving for the RPM to drop back to 1500, have not figure out when or how it goes back to the 1500 range but this happens at least 2 to 3 times on my 1 hour drive in the morning and also coming home. When it is at 1800RPM, the fluctuation seems to be nonexistent at this range. I have searched some of the key terms, I can only find relevance to Torque Converter failing, I am at 56000km on my truck now, is it normal that this is failing already? It has been cold lately too, but didnt do it last winter from what I remembered, it is -13 to -24 Celsius where I have noticed this issue. Almost out of base warranty, just added the GM PP to 100000km. I would like some pointers on what I can do to fix this if it is not normal.

In car nav is nice for one thing, anticipating up coming roads on low visibility weather conditions. This is what I mainly use it for.

Built myself some rear signal/break lights, could never find the LED bulbs with proper offsets. You can see here how they compare One to the left is the original LED bulb, middle one is where I hacked off the "heatsink", there is already one just like how the back up lights I have is designed. And here is the result, super stock look but LED!! (Looks even more even in person, my phone may have been too close) Reminder of the super bright back up lights I have got (I get comments on how bright they are all the time)

If you are plowing, chance it is that the cold is keeping the wires cool anyway. also depends on your wire length

Or attach the the plow to the second battery only? What is it powering really? just moving it up and down right? Not a constant draw, should be ok

Not a big deal for me, I ran mine in parallel and it is only used to make sure i can run radio and other items without worry. 125A is still a lot, 125A * 12V = 1500watts. cranking still comes from main, but the aux battery keeps it charged as they balance themselves out. Unless you are actually running a larger equipment, I do not see any other case needing more than 125A unless you are cranking.

You wont be able to run a microwave by the way, you are going to burn the wires out unless it is on a dedicated wire to a dedicated inverter. You probably tripped the breaker AND the fuse, I did that when I made the mistake trying to run a mini vacuum.

You could have used the last free bolt under the black cover next to the red cover, I guess it is too late to tell you.....

I would not bet my cash on them, you will still need something to control them. Unless there is stationary ones you were referring to?

If I ever come down to cali, can I come over to check out your truck!?? Nice stance!

They are depended on where the vehicle was sold. Canadian ones definitely wont turn off. there is DRL forced on during day time, mains are forced on during night.

Not quite today, a few days ago to compare my new beam pattern