Thomcat

All things considered, the ride depends more on the quality of the tire than the size of the wheel. Running stock Bridgestone Alenzas on my 22's. Optional 22's were a dealer installed option and dealer replaced steel transport wheels during prep and mounted tires on GM rims. First 1K rode a bit stiff and bouncy, position of the valve stems against tire marking shifted since delivery....seems some hard stops walked the rear tires around the rims. Dealer road force balanced and rides nice and smooth and the low profile 22's improve handling on this big boat to the level of a passenger car.

Si! .02 You've got to figure that a lot of generic assembly materials are locally sourced to save bucks and assure sufficient stock and fast delivery. US and Canada '15 Camaro, '16 & '18 Malibus , '18 Traverse, and '16 and '19 Silverados.......no problemo! Loved the look of the Avalanche, that's why every Silverado from now on will also have a fake "sail" sports bar. I tried and gave them a chance but after '07, '12 and '13 Silao mfrd. Avalanches put together with Mexican snot for sealant which leaked more than a submarine with a screen door.....I only buy GMs with a "1" or "2" as the leading digit in the VIN.

Check out your front (and rear) wheel well liners.....the pressed fiber liners are great for shredding with claws to get nesting material.

My RST w/IOS radio was built 3/19 and it has it....I didn't know it..........but a text message for an ad popped up on the screen about 2 weeks ago and asked if I wanted it to be read....I said no but saw it was stored on my cell phone later. Maybe it was added when they updated the radio for Nav and reverted to an older ver. 5.09 build for the software.....also added some other crap I'll never use.

Came with the optional appearance package ....sports bar, tonneau and bed liner..should be available separately it has a chevy logo emkbossed on the top of the cover.

Mirror lights for the woods?......here's what I used when camping and no wiring diagram is necessary......lights hooked onto a 12v transformer plugged into the 110v bed outlet .......operate when parked in Acc. or while driving, conveniently controlled by an existing lighted dash switch. Next Summer gets replaced with a 40" light bar powered by a 240 watt plug in transformer.

The electronic brake periodically exercises itself for a reason likely to prevent a mechanism freeze from disuse......i.e. for those who frequently use Park without also setting the parking brake....theory being use it or lose it. Same algorithm that runs it should also prevent it from activating while truck is moving.

Had a two speed transfer case on my Avalanche 3LT, and Z71s and my '17 Z71. I've launched boats, pulled trees off roads, climbed out of swales and even dragged a piece of Jersey wall in low gears while in 4Hi. Never used 4Lo once and no idea if they even worked in any of the vehicles, came with the packages.....yhe idea of slow crawl or stop to engage a non synchro gear for 4Lo went out with my '62 Nova's 3 speed Muncie. Might be useful for rock crawling, but then again wouldn't be doing that in a Silverado......I'd reserve that for a rentalJeep with full coverage.

The off road mode/terrain electronic control button in place of 4Lo on the panel of a single transfer case closely mimics the shift points and gear ratios of 4Lo in a two speed case, but of course without the same torque supplied by 4Lo.

Dealer should know better and install the OEM rollup or advise that installing another models will jam the tailgate or not form an adequate weather seal. OEM was changed from the previous roll up on my '16 which appears identical except for an improved release mechanism and tailgate weather seal. The OEM tonneau for the '19 seal sits against the rear and not the top of the tailgate. Bottom of tonneau cover is 3/4" above the top of the tailgate and thje vertical seal drapes against the rear of the gate.....and water forced in will hit the drape and roll down the back surface of the gate and out the bottom. Been through many rainstorms and not a drop has touched the bed surface. And not a single fail to drop on remote.

OEMs are stone guards not mud flaps. If you remove them and do not replace with mud flaps, you'll soon find out why they are called stone guards; and, the damaged caused to the paint by kicked up stones will take your mind off the hole. I can see using the plug for the exposed hole if also adding flat rubber flaps, but the wrap around molded ones make adding a plug unnecessary, provides added firmness and prevents water and abrasive road grit from getting behind the flap where it can sit and with flap movement being blasted with rocks, stones, ice chunks eventually grind away the paint and rust out the area underneath.

Yeah, sure......a forever truck. When I was 17 I said I was going to keep my '60 Impala forever......fully equipped with 283, tube AM radio, P/S and P/B............that was 36+ vehicles ago. Said the same about my new bride 4 vehicles later when we bought a our first car together, a new '72 Duster..........that was 32 vehicles ago, but still on #1 wife. Willing to tolerate a lot of crap from family, but when I get it from a POS metal, rubber, electronics and plastic or when there's a newer one with flashier gizmos......It's again time to part ways.

De-chromed red and black '19 RST

Cheap? A minimum for $450 for the mirrors at an internet discount supplier or EBay, and another $200 for the switches and harness and $200 for the dealer programming.....so about $900 for a DIY unless you can scavenge decent ones from an auto junkyard. And if the dealer programming doesn't take, he'll still charge for labor and blame the driver supplied mirror or switch. Mine cost $0 and works in conjunction with the front window switches......just roll them down and while folding mine by hand yell : "Honey, fold in your mirror"

When I owned Avalanches this mod was discussed at length. In order for plug and play operation, the motorized mirrors and mirror control switch(es) must come from a donor vehicle that already contains this option. I did it successfully direct swapping folding mirrors and control switch from my '07 with the folding ones in the non folding ones in the '13 at trade in time. A simple installation with new mirrors and switch will not work because the mirror module needs dealer programming to recognize that the motorized mirrors are in the system.

Blot with a piece of white paper towel...... red/pink = coolant leak Use a hose and try working from the bottom up instead of starting with the roof.

.02 After owning 3 Avalanches, I'm no stranger to leaks. My '12 Avalanche had leaks in the sunroof, windshield, windshield wiper gasket and door seals..even went through 4 CMHSL that had water entry...gave up after 5 tries and traded to give another the pleasure of being commander of a submarine. Sunroof? : If so could be a blocked drain running down the "A" pillar and sunroof pan overflowing. My leaks never showed in the headliner. Pull driver's side fuse access cover and see if traces of water running down the "A" pillar inside, indicative of drain pan overflow. Could be the top door seal channeling water from the roof. Close door on a sheet of paper and see if the seal holds tight.....if paper loosely slips out, could be source of a leak. Could be a leak in the windshield or windshield wiper access. Could be a leak in the GPS antenna on the roof, check to see if tight, if it moves likely a source of a leak. Remove driver's side plastic floor panel securing rug and lift edge of rug. If rug is wet, then the jute fiber backing is soaked and will take a lot of effort to vacuum and blot it up. And you can also check the driver's side electrical wire channel running the length of the vehicle top see if filled with water.....if so drain so connectors don't become corroded and cause gremlins in the future. If standing water is found on the rug surface, check under then seats for water entry to motorized seat and airbag connectors. Let dealer give it a try.....never did much good with me....seems they look for leaks one at a time.........fix one and another pops up. Might be worth it for you to see if you can find the leak yourself so you can determine if they fixed it......difficult to tell if the jute backing is not completely dried first.

The '19 RST 4WD (w/o optional tech package) has 4 modes. Tour (Normal drive mode), Sport (turn knob CW), Tow/Haul (turn knob CCW), Off Road (Push button in). Off Road mode button located in cluster instead a 4Lo button, simulates 4Lo in a single speed transfer case vbehicle, but without the same torque.

No, but it does make it look like a sporty wannabee Avalanche instead of a notch back rock and manure hauler, lights help in the woods when camping, and for rock crawlers it prevents their brains from decorating the headliner when they roll it and that paper thin roof you can flex with a finger caves in.

So, nothing better to do.........you just had to remind me of the remark that 52+ years ago that got Soupy Sales kicked off TV........didn't you?.....and it goes like this: "Confucius say woman who fly plane upside down have crackup".

Been through heavy mountain rain storms and never garaged, opened the slider a few times when parked for venting. After seeing all these post I just had to go out and check again because just had a heavy rainstorm last night. Dry as a bone on rear glass, inner window channel, seats, headliner and rug. Truck has a sports bar behind the spoiler which might disrupt rain getting dripping off the spoiler lip and blown against the rear glass when traveling at speed, but does nothing to keep water off the glass when parked. The rubber seals on the rear spoiler and surrounding the outside of the slider seem effective in keeping water out of the interior.

Screen dimming may only work on the optional HD camera and HD radio screen, definitely works with the same two -/+ buttons in the lighting cluster controlling dash back lighting. Will noticeably dim at night and really helps on Nav and backup camera screens.

The screen brightness on my 8" infotainment screen can be controlled at night with the dash buttons used for LED back lighting of the instrument panel. I find it necessary when using the Nav at night to dim the black background of the night screen. And the HD camera and HD screen (convenience II package) and stock halogens in the backup lenses provide more than enough lighting and contrast for backing situations in total darkness although the lenses of the rear taillamps provide a faint geometric pattern on the pavement.

Thanks for the comments. Makes sense....I thought maybe it was a frozen mechanism inside the gate, but frozen latches in the striker bolts makes more sense and time to lube the striker bolts. Another point freezing - Also have the passive entry system on my Traverse and Malibu and during the past two Winters have had the handle buttons freeze up solid after a rain and overnight freeze or snowfall. A quick hit with a hairdryer or heat gun or letting it sit in the Sun will will free up the button(s). Once buttons are frozen, passive entry won't work if handles are pulled, but the button on the keyfob will unlock the doors.

Truck is equipped with the remote drop tailgate and OEM tonneau cover. Just finished making my own version of a "Slim Jim" shaped to get behind the vertical seal and allow me to pop the lever to release the tonneau cover without opening the tailgate. Why? Hadn't use the truck for two days after driving in a heavy fog with light rain. Overnight cold in below 15F and thin layer of ice all over the body and glass. Couldn't open the tailgate with either the remote or dash switch......heard solenoids click but gate still secured at both latches and no amount or shaking would release the gate. Had to stuff all the luggage in the back seat taking a friend to the train station......if luggage was already in the bed he'd be SOL (or worse me, having to ship it to him later). Parked with the bed facing the Sun and later in the day after all the ice disappeared tailgate popped open with the keyfob or dash switch.