Grumpy Bear

Wear and oil induced friction are not related. Viscous drag is what happens to the oil. Wear is what happens to the machine. I'm not quoting the guy you quoted.

276,000 Mile Service 444,214 km 1,000 OCI nominal 16 ounces of makeup oil 4 Quarts Mobil 1 Euro FS 5W40, 1 quart expired Red Line HP 10W40 No filter change. (Due next OCI) Gave her a bath.

A 0W20 or even a 5W20 can be made with a HTHS over 3.0. MTP30K, Red Line HP, Evolve EvoSyn 5W20 to name three.

Correct. We look for several things to be true at the same time and it is also true we have to give a few a good old fashion educated guess. Emphasis on EDUCTATED. Enough viscosity. Enough Anti-wear and enough solvency. We can get enough viscosity in any oil by the grade we select and knowing what our targets are. The second one doesn't shout out at you. You have to stay current on the API and ACEA specification. Google is good for that. Some oil actually say. Mobil 1 Euro FS 5W40 is 'FULL SAPS". Not yelling, how it is presented. The last, solvency is the sticking point of most shelf oils. They don't have any. The exceptions I noted. Havoline Pro-RS and Renewable Lubricants BioSyn are required by law to contain a minimum 25% organic ester. Valvoline is an outlier. Chemical cleaning without an ester. Don't ask me how but it works. The remainder that are not shelf oils will either say OR will show up as an oxidation level over 30 units on the virgin oil sample. Google is your friend there too. My personal selection is 82 on oxidation.

It's a long read and requires a good mental filter but worth the nuggets of gold buried within if you can: Do Some Required Assembly https://www.stle.org/images/pdf/STLE_ORG/BOK/OM_OA/Additives/Special Additive Report_Viscosity Index Improvers_tlt article_Sept11.pdf [Snippet] Placek believes that the added performance requirements for a VI improver in lower-viscosity engine oil may lead to the need to shift to a higher-performing polymer. “Some concern has been expressed about a loss of hydrodynamic lubrication that may accompany the use of lower viscosity oils for improved fuel efficiency,” Placek says. “If high-performance VI improvers can help maintain equipment durability while also delivering improved fuel efficiency, then there could be a shift to higher performance VI improvers for engine oils in the future. [End quote]

No, I do not know where.

Oh boy ! 1.) You may have noticed in the video the first thing he says is?, " Viscosity is the MOST IMPORTANT specification...." Then he goes on to show how the published numbers are good for a New York second. Good enough to get it in a bottle and little more. And there is where the fun begins. NOBODY, okay a few, will tell you what polymer VII they are using. (Torco does on a few products as well as HPL Lubricants). Which means that you have to assume the worst and what that looks like will depend on the distance between the first number and the second, in most cases. I.E. a 0W30 will have more polymer of a higher molecular weight than a 10W30. A 10W60 has a bucket load. Now we get a small clue in the video that 'most' Walmart oils use an OCP polymer including Mobil 1. None of this answers the question, how much is enough. Get in the "Way back machine" to the GM wear studies and you will find 3.7 cP HTHS the guide post. That study was done with a mineral Group II SAE 40 and as such is Newtonian and for the most part shear proof. Darn few oils today will pass muster against that benchmark. That is Zero SAE 20's, less than a handful of SAE 30's and only a few more SAE 0 to 10W40's. The few that do will carry the ACEA C3, C4 or A3/B4 specification listed on the back label. Those specifications assure an in the bottle minimum of 3.5 cP. Dexos 2 is also a 3.5 cP minimum as are some other OEM specs such as Porsche C30/C40/A40. The catch. Mobil 1 Euro 0W40 carries the C3 spec. It also uses OCP polymers and Lake addresses than head on. It's closer to 3.0 cP or almost the minimum for an SAE 30 (2.9 cP is that minimum). How is that helpful? Expect a minimum of 1 grade reduction in viscosity in a few hundred miles. So VIS UP. Take note of his comments about his Boxster oil requirements and how he manipulates that number with known values. Don't be mislead. Mobil 1 0W40 just makes a 30 weight by a hairs breadth after a few hours. Death note. Engines produced with "Spray Bores" will not tolerate heavier oils. 2.) This one is a bit easier. Phosphorus, Sulphur and Calcium/Magnesium. ANTIWEAR. My rule on this is if the motor uses no observable oil over a reasonable OCI then use full SAPS. If it uses some, use Mid SAPS. C3 oils are by and large mid SAPS. If it uses allot, your screwed. And use an oil with LSPI chemistry. That is less calcium and more magnesium. SAE SN+/SP oils are LSPI friendly. In fact most Euro oils are MID SAPS that don't display the FS label and are LSPI friendly. 3.) Polarity aka Solvency. Are there shelf oils with some solvency? Yes but hard to deduce which ones as some use alkylated naphthalene, which doesn't show up in oxidation tests and a few use Os-PAG or Diesters to give is a solvency boost. Problem is not enough to be useful for anything but seal swell issues. So you've found an oil with enough viscosity and antiwear but not sure about solvency. What to do.. What you do is change is often or you will end up with a motor like the one in the OP's video. Clean on top, garbage in the rings. 2-3K OCI's. This will take me to my first pick for semi-shelf oil. CHEVORN HAVOLINE Pro-RS 5W30, (Havoline, a former Texaco product name). This oil is 25% minimum NOVI biobased natural Ester and runs about as clean as an oil can run. It is Mid SAPS and is reported to have a 3.5 cP HTHS so at least a 30W under stress. With some lab work this is likely a 5K oil. Another shelf pick a slot down is Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30. 3.3 cP so not on the top of the list but a very clean running oil with allot of promise. Proprietary chemistry used in substituted of polar bases. A good 0W20 substitute. 3,750 to 5,000 with labs. Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 is a C3/C30 compliant oil which is a good 0W20 substitute. In fact Mobil recommends it for all ACEA C2 applications. Fair endorsement. You wanted lighter shelf picks....there they are in order. Order on line more likely. Castrol Euro Spec 5W40 and Mobil 1 Euro 5W40 FS is what I use as shelf oil for 5W30 applications. I shy away from the 0W40's. Non-Shelf oils; My personal Go To is Red Line HP Euro 5W40 and I use this by the case in most everything that calls for 0W20 to 5W40. I have is proofed out to 3,750 miles with the first 5K test currently underway. This oil uses a 0-5 SSI polymer and darn little of it. Has a robust 4.4 cP HTHS and a good dose of Ester blended into a PAO base. Solidly over 3.7 cP HTHS. This can be an affordable oil with some relationship building and proper OCI selection based on labs. AMSOIL Euro 5W40's, there are two. Mid and Full SAPS versions seem to rely on AN's as the polar component but as they are not as transparent as they once were it is a bit of a guess. AMOILS hugs the lower end of the viscosity HTHS brackets but uses solid polymers. I can not find a SS series SAE40 and the *W30 versions, again, huge the basement on HTHS bending to MPG over wear considerations. But they are very clean robust oils that are affordable with a subscription. TORCO SR-5 5W30. Very close to Red Line HP 5W30 in chemistry. They are more guarded and cost a bit more but have a substantial Anti-wear package. High Performance Lubricants or HPL has multiple offerings and are not shy about supplying PDS sheets or answering inquiries. Even have a No-VII Group III/IV/AN selection if absolute is a requirement of knowing. Honestly I have no idea if any of these oils, no matter how robust, will keep the 2.7 alive but I can say some will keep the rings in good enough shape to give is a fighting chance. Every oil I've mentioned is not DEXOS compliant. They are not less than. They are so much more than. Decisions is up to you if you will protect a warranty or an engine. An interesting oil not on my list is Renewable Lubricants BioSyn-Xtra 5W40. A very clean running oil whose formulators are short on specifics and why not on my list. Normally this isn't an issue for me but as they are not forthcoming and don't have a API seal then I also have nothing but their word to work with. I could buy a bottle and have it tested but than isn't my cuppa tea at this age. Used to be. That and priced above many PAO/POE based oils. It is slicker than deer guts

I've been sick for about two weeks now so catching up on my reading. Boy am I depressed. The amount of conflicting information is hideous. If you don't want the public to know what the what what is, then put tons of crap on the floor until even the experts can't tell where the floor is. That is were we are. So what can I lean on? The things that don't and can not change. Up is still up. 3.2.32 fps is still the acceleration of gravity. Earth revolves around the sun and base oils are Newtonian. At least to a degree than matters. Like solves like. And greed is everywhere.

How many motors have you seen with 7.5K OCI's with a timing chest that clean using any oil one can source at Walmart? I'm not implying it. I saying it straight away. Or at least the oil recommended isn't up to the job. The race is on to the bottom of the barrel. Less viscosity. Less anti-wear. How far do you think that can go before failure is certain? You will find the answer in the history of Gibbs Racing and their oils. This isn't new. It's been rinse and repeat for about a hundred years. GM has a history with advancing a chemistry that is destructive BEFORE the/a mechanical solution is affirmed. DEXRON without whale oil ring a bell? Chrysler ditto. Late 50's darn near ended them. We are past the stage where the focus is on IMPROVEMENT. We are in the profit and surrendered stage. Find yourself a oil that hasn't surrendered it's chemistry. You can even find a few at Walmart if you look hard enough. Sometimes that answer isn't in the oil but in the oil that is specified. Protect the machine, not the warranty. Not the legacy. Not loyalty.

146K miles to destruction. So a few questions. 1.) How many of those miles was that rocker "ticking"? (had to be awhile as the axle was half gone). 2.) At that number of miles is this still a "defective part" that slipped through manufacturing/assembly final QC? 3.) Are the prematurely wiped out bores, baked rings, worn on rocker axle etc. due to an oil that was doing its job? While you ponder this remind yourself that the oil was changed often enough to prevent ALL rocker and timing cover deposits so it wasn't getting extended changes. It wasn't even getting 7.5K changes and stay that clean.

Pass ASTM “D7320 Sequence IIIG Engine Oil Test” on the left. Fail on the right. So what would you call the screen shot above? Some oils prevent, Some oils restore. Most oils do neither.

My take? Routine maintenance is preventative maintenance. Routine maintenance is more frequent than the book "Normal" maintenance. In fact, IMO, there is no such thing as normal. All service is severe so use the "Severe" schedule and if you book hasn't such a table halve the normal schedule. Now that said.... You won't find in that book a replacement time or miles for most hard parts. Yes there are a few, like plugs. But water pumps, brakes, etc. have lives dependent on service/use and environment. As Dave mentioned, Inspect and replace what needs replacing, service what does not and as diyer2 mentions, don't forget the fluids we don't routinely look at or change. (Brake fluid power flush, coolant ever 5 years and so on.)

Oh if we loose the Giant's Only six perfect records left. Ram's should have won that game. Sad.

Friction package is being restored Keep going.

DEXOS Oil that was thermally oxidative resistive enough to keep the timing cover and valve area clean.... Failed to do so in the hottest area of the motor! This didn't happen in the last ten minutes of it's life.

I belong to another car site for one of my other marks who has a large Canadian population. I see allot of these fellas actually have a spring/fall switchover maintenance routine that includes a change in oil grade. Temperature swings in your area seem to make it necessary.

Belle Tire tested my battery after 10 years and it tested okay. The tech told me what it needed was a good long drive. I took that advice. About a 400 mile trip and it took most of that distance to see the volt meter drop to 12.4 volts. On the retest by the same tech, it tested near new. Running partial discharge for months or years on end is hard on a battery and yet that is very common. Our drives are to short. To many starts per day. We don't use a maintainer (I do). Fact is I have "Battery Tenders" hard wired into most of my vehicles and they all get silly long battery lives. My opinion is then take it for a looooooooooooooog drive or let it sit on a "Tender" for a few days, like three or four. Then have it tested.

Yep, I'll run right out and get me one.

I have 10 years plus on mine and still holds a full charge at over 95% capacity. I love GM Smart Charging systems. Should be standard on every vehicle. Live over by Rockford Illinois. I do carry a Halo Charger. Present from the wifey.

My wife does this . Serves up Impossible burger scenarios . I don't often see a situation where a 0W* oil would on my horizon. https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/euro-passenger-car-engine-oil?variant=40941311688897 This stuff has a pour point of -60C/-76 F and a HTHS of 3.5 cSt. Impossible cost money.

This is a good choice. Better than 99% of shelf oils for HTHS.

I missed on yesterday. $2.91 to $3.39. Marathon in the next town west is off it's rocker.

Don't confuse Euro Spec oil with Euro Manufacture oil In Europe they just call it oil. WE call it Euro Spec because the oil conforms to one of many European specifications. Mainly it draws your attention toward the higher HTHS. But not all Euro Spec oils have that as a limit. They also have 2.9 cSt oils that meet certain specs. Maybe we need to back up a bit and ask what it is you are looking for SPECIFICALLY. (not shouting, emphasizing) What is the project goal?

There ya go. Didn't know that.