dp454so

Knocking the dust off of this thread. Are there any updates or noteworthy products from 2019 to now? Have a '16 LTZ 6.2/8spd @ 124k daily driver so I don't have warranty issues anymore Budget is flexible and I'd love to learn the finer art of tuning as 1slow1500 suggests but it's not how I earn my living so it's most likely a time suck for me... and I can get sucked in pretty easily. Leaning towards a higher-end handheld unit with some advanced functionality just in case I get curious and want to tinker... I upgraded to Kings and 305's and am looking to get get some punch and mpg's back as well as drop the tranny temps which are running hotter with the bigger tires. I have not modded anything in the drive train with exception of exhaust and a washable K&N air filter. I'm in the Southeast and it's hot as hell so the trans trends to run hot. I don't tow a lot, but I do tow some and for the most part, drive fairly conservatively as I want this truck to last. I'm interested in good MPG's as I log a lot of highway miles from SC to my farm in WV. Have always run 91 or 93 octane. May throw headers and CAI on at some point. Have never had trouble with the engine & run AMS in the trans. Appreciate your time. Cheers, dp454so

Does this work for non-GM / non-factory tpms sensors? I replaced factory wheel/tires with new as well as new TPMS sensors but they're not calibrated

Rad build! I'd love to boost my 6.2 but cringe having that much tube & snail under the truck (but I understand your logic). I have my truck offroad quite a bit and know full well that I'd crunch something that would shut me down. Obviously you have the background and skill but what made you go turbo as opposed to supercharger? Cheers!

Not at all. I should have put Kings on years ago and don't regret the $$$$ that they cost... worth every penny... buy once, cry once etc. They ride very well, are adjustable, and rebuildable. For me, that's piece of mind. Buying a decent tire with an adequate sidewall will also help with the ride. I went from the factory 22's to a 17" wheel and man, there is a big difference! I was flirting with the idea of more lift (4") to be able to clear 37's (with cutting) but without going to the heavens with it. Ask around and folks say you need a 6" lift to clear 35's but I was able to get 305x70x17's clear with the norcal mod and without cranking up the preload (lift) on the Kings. The truck still has some rake, but that's fine with me for now. Finally did the "Norcal" mod to fit the 305x70x17's KO2's and man, I should have done this ages ago. Was concerned that I would have to pull the coilovers off and crank up the preload (i.e., lift) but the tires fit with no rubbing and the King EXT version shocks are in their sweet spot for both up and down travel. It rides very different and like a truck should The 6.2 still has more than enough pull to turn these easily but I might look into a tune or even gearing to get some mileage and torque back, and to keep some strain off of the trans. If I can find a decent kit and/or parts, may even build and add a trans cooler. Next - trying to find a body-matching camper shell, 3M clear film to protect the rockers and paint from the new wheel/tire poke, bumpers & winch, roof racks, lighting, cell range extender, aux fuel cell, dual batteries...

Bump! I'm interested in the same as I have a '16 LTZ on 2.5" King Ext coilovers and am flirting with going with a 4" or 6" BDS lift as recommended by the guru's at Filthy Motorsports. I started out with the intent of getting just enough lift to clear 35's so I went with the King 25001-148-A EXT TRAVEL in the front and the King 25001-154-A in the rear. I also pulled the factory rear block and added a set of Deaver J1 (mini packs) under the stock leafs (minus the overload leaf). With the front preload set to nearly soft as it will go (1/4" coil nut threads showing), the front lifted about 2" and the deavers add another 2" to the rear and I retained about 1.5" of rake. Like yourself, I like my truck not squatting when I throw a few gallons of milk in the back How does it ride and handle? Do you like the Fox's and did you go with the ones that come with the BDS kit or procure them separately? I'm trying to figure out if I can re-use my current Kings with the BDS kits but can't get ahold of anyone to ask.

Roger that, I appreciate the insight. I’ll follow up here once I hear back from a couple more sources. Several vendors (trail built, custom offsets, etc) Let you build a wheel package with the wheels that I’m interested in, after putting in vehicle info for ‘16, Chevrolet, Silverado 1500, 4wd. cheers.

Thanks. Does it work the other way around? Can wheels for 19 and up work on a 2016? in this case, Backspacing: 4.28"

Hey guys, Getting ready to drop some coin on wheels and I'm looking to confirm that the 2019 1500 bolt pattern is the same as the 2016 ('14-18) bolt patterns at 6x5.5 / 6x139.7. These are the wheels that I'm eyeing: https://www.relationsracewheels.com/products/rr7-h-17x8-5-6x5-5-6x139-7-hybrid-beadlock-2019-chevy-silverado-1500?variant=39686413156434. Thanks & Cheers!

Bump. Also, the above link (http://www.chassisunlimited.com/product/armor-bumpers/chevy-gmc-armor/rock-slider-kit-sqaure.html) is dead so I wonder if these are even an option any more? I'm wondering the same thing about the rocky-road sliders. $1000 is pretty steep but is still cheaper than rocker panel bodywork. Is anyone running the rocky road sliders?

What intervals do you recommend for an 8L90 with 108k on the odo?

Question to you fellas: If the truck is now at 108k miles, and I've serviced the trans per GM recommendations to date (more or less), and I want to keep the truck, how often - going forward - should I change the trans fluid and filter? every 20k / 30k? FWIW - I'm planning to start using the AMSOIL trans fluid.

Exactly. Recent quote from the dealership that I use is $540 for the trans filter and fluid. I like the peace of mind of them doing the work but now that my warranty is out, it doesn't make much sense to just throw money at them when one of us that is capable and has the time can do it themselves, save the money, and acquire the knowledge to do these repairs in the future.

Yessir. Thanks for the links and I'm planning on keeping the truck. It's been reliable thus far *knocks on wood*. It's a Canadian truck but has spent 100k of its life with me in GA/SC so I expect the heat takes a toll on my fluids. DM sent on the AMSOIL products. Is there anywhere I can pick it up in the Charleston SC area? I have a road trip coming up and would love to get this knocked out today or one evening this week.

Hey fellas, my current rig ('16 ltz 6.2, etc) Looking at the lineup of the many multiple boxes to check for a 90k+ service interval and need some input regarding some of the recommended changes. The truck is at 108K but is a DD and not used for towing much, and I try to stay out of the fun pedal. oil changed per system recommendations using Mobile1. GM recommends: (i'm only showing what I need to do here) - rotate tires. I'll do that. - air cleaner. I'll do that. - spark plugs - Need help here. What type of plugs have you tried and what works well with this engine? - tans fluid - I'll do this. will be replacing myself due to the great content on this forum - transfer case - I'll do this. need to change but delaying because xfer case isnt used regularly. any best practices and experiences recommended. - drain and fill engine cooling system - I'll do this. truck was built in '16, it's '21, time for a flush and refill. Don't expect much drama here and think I know what I'm doing. - brake fluid - I'll do this. I have never changed the brake fluid but will be upgrading the stockers to the Powerstop Z36 kit. These stock brakes never performed like I wanted but I don't see the value in spending the high $$$ on the brembo kit for a truck with 108K on the OD. If you'all have recommendations on this sutiation, i'd happily consider. - fuel filter - for the life of me, I can't find a guide on how to do this. Any insight is appreciated. I'd like to do this on my own. Cheers.

and to the OP, many thanks for sharing your knowledge! Congrats on the pinned topic - please do keep them coming! To those additional folk who shared it after going through your own experiences - many thanks to you as well. This is one of the reasons I love the GM community. Trust, community, and strength in numbers. The GM product 'aint perfect, but it's damn good, the stealerships are what they are, I love how we're being self-reliant and keeping our own hard-earned gold in our own pockets.

Awesome Info. I'm going down the same road and have the same concern about fluid temps. What trans pan, cooler, and rad did you go with and how did you plumb them all together? Would love to see a few pics on how you did this. Thanks ahead of time! Cheers.

Hey guys, Great thread here. for my front/rear diffs, I ordered Royal Purple 75w90 based off of the recommendations here that the 75/85 is just for mileage and I'd rather have the protection of a heavier lubricant and am looking to reduce the trans slap common with the 8speed. '16 LTZ 6.2 has 108k and I'm curious what condition the oils is going to be. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/royal-purple-max-gear-synthetic-gear-lube-oil-75w90-01300/7070082-P?utm_source=ET&utm_medium=TRANS&utm_term=TRNSCT&utm_campaign=20211017_A_EC_TX_ORDCON &utm_content=ITEM Considering also changing gaskets on the rear diff out of caution since I am pretty high mileage. How are the aftermarket rear diff covers working for those that are running them? Make sense that extra fluid would help with temps and performance and maybe longevity of the diff. Don't know if it's worth the several hundred bucks for a part that only offers marginal improvement.

Hey fellas. Need some help here ~ I have a '16 Silverado 4x4 currently running the factory 22's with factory sized 285/45/22 tires. I have a King kit that gave me about 2" of lift. I'd like to run 33x12.50x17's. What wheel offset do I need and will I need to trim? I'd prefer to maintain factory track width or slightly wider (like less than 1" or so wider than stock). Thanks! ATTACHMENTS

Seamus, how do you test your fluids for contamination? always beefed to air on the side of caution.

Nice. you may already know this but if you went with the -EXT front shocks, you can get some extra travel by cutting the factory droop stop. Also, maybe consider the Dirt King cam kit. Much more beefy than stock. https://dirtkingfabrication.com/products/upper-arm-alignment-cams-dk-632919

Update: Went with Dirt King UCA's and their cam upgrade kit. Deaver J1 mini pack out back. Truck sits well for my taste and I should have done this upgrade years ago. Has about a 1" rake which I wanted to keep. The truck is planted and rides a more firm than stock but it's not harsh by any means. I've hooned around on some fairly rough fire roads and can't believe how much i like this setup. Next is losing the factory 22's and putting some more rubber between me and the road. Still leaning towards the BFG Ta KO2's or now the KM3's. Going for 35x1250's with some trimming. Once tires are sorted out, I might play around with gearing but going from the factory 285/45's to 35's is only a difference of 32.1 to 35". A decent tune might negate the need for gears. Also looking at a RoughCountry hidden winch mounting plate. https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-hidden-winch-mounting-plate-11004.html It's just about out of warranty and I might start playing with the intake, tune, and headers. The vinyl tonneau is starting to fail so it will be getting replaced soon. I still like the Retrax's but am now thinking about caps as the build may turn into somewhat of an overland theme. Cheers!

I have about 1.5k miles on 2.5's with resi's and adjusters front and rear on my '16LTZ 6.2. Dirt King ball joint UCA's, Dirt King Cam kit, Deaver J1's out back with the factory spacer. Gives me about 1" rake front to back - which is what I wanted. The difference is night and day and I'm kicking myself for not having done this sooner. I have the front coil nut run down some to give me a little more lift (with more preload) but the damn truck is planted no matter what I"m doing with it. Potholes and washboards that used to make the truck "shimmy" off the road don't affect the truck and I'm not afraid of railroad crossings at speed They are rebuildable, tuneable, can swap out coils if you want, ... and on and on. Buy once, cry once. I don't regret buying them at all, like I said, I only regret not doing this earlier. Next for me is losing the factory 22's and replacing them with 17-18 racelines, methods, or such and KO2's or KM3's. Hope I can get 35's to fit with some NorCal love. Do it.

Update: Pulled the trigger on the King 2.5 ext shocks w/adjusters & Deaver mini leaf pack! Starting to get pretty excited ? For now, I'm going to hold off on the upgraded shackles and hangers. If it feels like the OEM's are binding then I'll adjust as needed. Just looking at the offerings from mazzula, dirt king, cwf, are all massive & reassuringly beefy compared to OEM. Right now I'm hunting for UCA's with balljoints or the Icons with their "delta" joint. I have been recommended Cognito... any recommendations? https://cognitomotorsports.com/cognito-ball-joint-sm-series-upper-control-arm-kit-for-07-18-silverado/sierra-1500.html Truck has the cast steel lower control arms. Can't wait to get her back into the shop:

bump awesome build!

originally posted here: https://www.silveradosierra.com/under-construcktion/dp454so-s-2016-silverado-ltz-z71-6-2-build-t666514.html re-posting here for a new audience & some different feedback. This truck started life lowered as in the pics below. 1- Suspension: I have spent a ton of time researching the options for these 14-18's. Good news is that there is a TON of options out there depending on your need & wallet. My intent is to learn as I go and play around with components & parts until I get the truck dialed in. Ultimately, I'd love this truck to evolve into a "luxury" chase/prerunner truck... but I need to jump another tax bracket before talking long-travel kits, bed cages, and such... Once I get the chassis tuned, I dig into the 6.2 for a little more juice. To get this truck back to stock, I need new front knuckles, rear factory shackles, and the leaf spring spacer (block) back on the truck. I have these parts ordered from the local GM dealer and will install myself over the next few weeks. Should be around $700 for all of the needed parts and hardware all-around. But not stopping there, and after driving (suffering) the truck for this long with this ****** lowered suspension, I found a shop that has 1-3" king 2.5's with resi's & adjusters and am contemplating pulling the trigger on them - although that is a lot of scratch. I love the idea of being able to tune the shocks and know I will enjoy having them on the truck. (adjustable Fox's coming at about the same price point). https://www.filthymotorsports.com/King_ ... 01-148.htm A cheaper option I'm working on is the Billstein 6112 kit but they lack the tuneability and re-buildability of the Kings but do allow for ride-height adjustment and the reviews seem pretty solid across the board. https://www.shocksurplus.com/products/b ... 00-4wd-rwd For the rear, I'd rather NOT use the factory block and use a Deaver mini-pack "J1's" under the factory leafs instead. Does anyone know how much, if any, this impacts towing & payload? I haven't been able to find definitive info and haven't heard back from Deaver. I DO NOT do either regularly but it's a consideration. These have some adjustability in 3/8" increments which is nice. https://performancelifts.com/deaver-gm- ... ck-j1.html With the Kings/Billsteins in front raising near 3", delete the rear block, and with the mini-pack (+2"), I should be able to retain a little rake which I do want. I've also considered upgrading the EOM rear shackle and hanger kit to Dirt King's parts but might hold off for now, or until I go with a full set of Deaver 182 long-travel leafs. https://dirtkingfabrication.com/product ... 6082802721 Deaver 182: https://dirtkingfabrication.com/product ... 6747336727 FYI, doing a lot of my own research, the guys at down south motorsports, accutune, dirt king, CWF, and filthy motorsports are extremely knowledgeable about these trucks. If you have questions, get in touch with them and save yourself from guessing. 2 - Tires: The Nitto G2's are still hanging in there after almost 45k miles. Not looking to replace those now unless I try to go with more lift. If I do go with more lift, I'll be swapping rims to methods in probably 17"-20"s and run BFG TA KO 2's. 3 - Running boards: Still loving the AMP's but find it hard to spend $1400 on them. That money could toward a REtrax Pro XR & alternate tube-style boards. Digging the reviews and look of these but wish they came in Gloss Black: https://www.americantrucks.com/nfab-cab ... chevy.html Open to suggestions. 4 - Wheel spacers: I've scratched this idea due to further research and the recommendations here. 5 - 3M mask: After 92k, the truck still looks great. Scratching this but will implement on the next "new" vehicle purchase. 6 - Cold air intake: Looking at the K&N blackhawk https://www.americantrucks.com/kn-black ... 17-62.html Open to suggestions. 7 - programmer / tuner: Not sure at this point. Several decent options out there but I don't want to risk the factory computer. I'll also be adding other bolt-ons (CAI, headers, maybe a throttle body) and need to have a tuner that can accomodate that hardware. Guess I should talk to a tuning shop on a "customizeable" tuner they recommend. Open to suggestions. 8 - ladder / traction bars: not needed at this point. If I go bonkers with a procharger in the future, I'll dig deeper as needed on this. 10 - weatherproof bed mat: Truck came with a spray-in bedliner and a cheap tri-fold vinyl tonneau. I'm looking at the bedrug XLT mat: https://realtruck.com/p/bedrug-xlt-bed- ... 1500/2016/ 11 - fender flares: Not sold on installing these right now. I can't find a low-profile, EOM look, that has good reviews and will give the "flush" and clean look I'm going for. Reviews for flares that look good on paper are reported to not actually sit flush to the body curves leaving large gaps. Open to suggestions. 12 - bed rail protector: Not needed as I'll be running a tonneau 13 - tonneau Currently factory 3 panel vinly folding type. Like the utility of the REtrax Pro XR's and the ability to add racks/bars/cargo above the cover. Utility comes at a price though. https://retrax.com/retraxpro-xr/2016/ch ... erado-1500 (can be found for less through resellers) Ranger - my copilot mine next to my boss's 2500 with a 2" lift/level and bigger tires