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You can turn the screen off but I don't know if you can do it once the reverse camera comes on. On my 2015 it's under "Settings", then "Vehicle Settings", then "Display", then "Turn Display Off". When you want it to come back on you just touch anywhere on the screen.

I know that. What I am telling you is that on the 2014/2015 Silverados the upper headlight (low beam) is used as the DRL during the day. If you turn the dash switch to the left it disables ALL the lights (DRL, parking lamps, and auto-headlights) and you can drive without any lights on. So it DOES disable the DRL's but it only does it until the truck is shut off and restarted. At that point the DRL circuit automatically re-energizes until you turn the switch again. Again this is for a US truck. I don't know if the Canadian DOT laws work the same way.

My truck came with them. I have a tonneau and like the factory integration (OEM plug and dash switch) but the light output is pretty bad. I will probably just buy LED strips from Amazon or ebay, cut the existing harnesses to remove the OEM lights, then splice the strips in. That way I will get more light but keep the factory plug and switch.

FYI -- there is already an entire thread on the foglights diode mod with lots of info and some other options too: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/162734-foglights-on-with-high-beams/?hl=foglights+on+with+high

I have a US-issued 2015 Silverado LT. I have not done anything to the factory switch. If I turn it to "OFF" then let it spring back to the AUTO position my DRL's turn off. I have done it while in Drive and know it works that way (while sitting in traffic with my foot on the brakes I can see my lights go off in the reflection in the car in front of me). They stay off until I spring the knob to the left again to re-enable auto lights or until I shut off and restart the truck (which re-enables them too).

I may be in the minority but I LOVE my AFM. It's one of the reasons I bought the truck. It definitely improves fuel mileage and I don't notice it switching in and out. I do a lot of highway driving and once I get up to around 55-65 and am just cruising along it switches to V4. But it's nice to know I have the V8 available as soon as I need it (and I use that mode often too)!

Advance Auto isn't too bad if you order online and pickup in store. If you Google it you can usually find a coupon for 30% off when you order online.

You may have to change the top plastic bumper cover. On the HD's it is taller (the raised part on each end is not on the 1500's).

I would tell your dealer you want them replaced. Wiper blades are not officially covered by the B2B warranty but at under 3000 miles you shouldn't be having problems with them yet.

Here is the original post where I quote the Tech Instructions: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/193753-which-windowvent-visors-are-you-running/?p=1888291

It's in the very first post ....

I went with the Husky too and have been very happy with them. My local installer deals in a lot of accessories and said they have trouble with the "twist-lock" cams on the WeatherTech ones so he didn't recommend them.

These trucks have problems with the leaf spring bushings squeaking too. But based on what you found I would say your noise is definitely the Passive Exhaust Valve. Just show the dealership the TechLink that was linked above. It doesn't hurt anything but is really annoying. I have been living with mine for a few months now. My dealer knows about it and will replace it whenever I give the word be he isn't sure the new valve won't start to squeak too.

If you are talking about changing ALL the mirrors you will need pgamboa's harnesses. If you only want to change the interior mirror to auto-dim and keep you existing outside mirrors "as-is" just follow his first link. There are also instructions on other forums that just pull a power and ground from the overhead console.

If you look online you can find it at some other places for cheaper but they may be in China. I know tpmstoolshop.com has it for around $45 and I think aliexpress has it for around $36 shipped.

This is a known issue and is DEFINITELY the PEV (Passive Exhaust Valve). I don't have the PI number available but tell your dealer to check the TechLink bulletin from June 2014. Here is a cut-and-paste from the pertinent part of the TechLink (there are actual pictures in the online article): The second noise condition is a whistle noise heard coming from the muffler area of the exhaust system. To diagnose this condition, temporarily lock the Passive Exhaust Valve (PEV) in the open position. Equipped on all light-duty trucks, the Passive Exhaust Valve, located behind the muffler, acts as a broadband tuner in both V4 (Active Fuel Management) and V8 mode for a more refined sound. Rotate the Passive Exhaust Valve counterclockwise. For testing purposes only, install a 1/4" x 20 x 2” steel bolt, nut, lock washer and two large standard 1/4" x 1” outside diameter washers (body washer) in the Passive Exhaust Valve. If the condition is reduced or changes greatly in severity with the bolt installed, replace the exhaust system. The vibration condition may be noticed in the seat or steering wheel when the truck engages V4 mode (Active Fuel Management). After verifying the condition, check the exhaust system for Ground Outs at the mounts and repair as necessary. For testing purposes only, install the bolt, washers and nut as described above. If the condition is reduced or changes greatly in severity, replace the exhaust system. My dealer and I have been monitoring mine for a few months. As said above right now the only fix is to install new exhaust from the muffler back and the same style valve is still installed so many begin to squeak again in a few months.

Or get one of these and mount it to the rear of the driver's seat or the facing forward on the rear seat: http://www.seatbeltextenderpros.com/car-hanger-vehicle-organizer/

Yes try this. They are pretty good about covering their warranty. You may get lucky and get a brand new cover!

Do you still have the link?

Also with most of the ones that extend over the rails once you remove the tonneau there is nothing left attached to the inside edge of the bed rails. On the ones that keep the bed caps open you have to leave a rail mounted or clamped to the inside edge when you roll the cover up or remove it. That is the main reason I bought a tri-fold that extends over the rails. I remove it a lot to haul things and I like being able to push stuff up against the inside edge of the rail and strap it tight.

Tell us more. What p/n? What are you going to use it for?

I'm not in the midwest but I'm in the northeast with a fair amount of snow/ice and lots of salt and chloride. No problems at all with mine. I usually keep the pivot points lubed with some silicone spray and have never had them freeze up.

Great - thanks!

You might not have heard of a car failing but that doesn't mean it shouldn't. He is right - all lights that pass DOT testing MUST be marked with DOT approval somewhere (most are molded in the plastic lens but a sticker on the rear of the housing is allowed too). Also as Chev-mekanik said above an HID (and most LEDs) in a reflector housing should not pass either. I'm not trying to start a war, just telling you what the law says. You're right that most shops won't bother to check and won't fail a vehicle unless the lights don't work.

Are those the factory bed lights or did you change the bulbs out to Philips? They look like the factory locations but look brighter and whiter than the factory bulbs.