MaverickZ71

Not sure why your truck won’t start, but wanted to point out that if your current engine was the original, it did not have VVT. VVT for the 5.3L came starting on the 2010 engines. I agree on checking the fuel system, make sure the MAF or any other wires weren’t knocked loose too.

Still illegal in most if not all states/territories to have fog lights and bright headlights on at the same time. Around here, that's an easy (and expensive) ticket. But as they say, your mileage may vary . . .

In the older models, the owner's manual had a map of the US showing what the magnetic zones were, and it said if your compass said CAL, you could manually change the zone of your location to set it right.

Case in point: 2006: The new 6-speed transmission is great! 2014: That old 6-speed was junk! But the new 8-speed is great!! 2017: That old 8-speed was trash! But the new 10-speed is fantastic!!!

Haven't heard that official term used in a while, since I worked in the oilfield back in the '80s!

Consensus on this website and others seems to be to delete AFM in any way possible as soon as possible, to eliminate oil usage and other potential problems; some say it results in smoother shifting and a better sounding exhaust, and most say it doesn't harm your fuel mileage too much at all. Some folks think that having all 8 cylinders firing all the time is actually better for your engine in the long run. In 8 years on multiple forums, I have not heard of any damage caused by turning off AFM. Seems like any damage is caused by not turning off AFM soon enough. Yes, it is still possible to have AFM lifters fail after turning off AFM. But that is due to faulty design or manufacture, not due to AFM being turned off. All the Range V8 module does is turn off AFM. Now, of course, it is possible to damage your engine if you use an aftermarket tuner to turn off AFM and install a high performance tune that requires higher octane fuel, and you continue to run regular fuel, or something like that. And you still need to use the proper Dexos-rated motor oil and change it at the proper intervals, either way. I ran a Range V8 module for 4 years and then switched to a Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 tuner to turn off the AFM and tune other functions.

HOT DAMN THE BLAZER IS BACK! Oh, waitaminute, that's just a jacked-up station wagon with the current ugly Chevrolet styling.

Range began their operation with a module that kept the GMT900 (07-13 1500s) trucks in V4 mode a lot more than the factory GM programming did. Then several of us asked them to make a Range V8 module that would turn off the AFM 4-cylinder function, in order to help alleviate our excessive oil consumption. It worked. They have worked out the bugs for their V8 module on the new trucks--no more codes are being thrown, nor do they run your battery down anymore on the 14-now 1500s. Most of us could tell little to no difference in fuel mileage with the AFM turned off; some reported better driveability (smoother shifts, no clunk when in and out of AFM, etc.), and aftermarket exhaust systems sound a lot better with no AFM. I used my Range V8 module until the contacts got messed up from taking it out/putting it back in during dealer visits. Then I noticed the little blue lights were not all on anymore, and the DIC showed the truck was in V4 mode once in a while. So I got a Hypertech 2.0 Energy Programmer and tuned out AFM. The Hypertech also allows you to do other tuning and read and clear diagnostic trouble codes.

GOOD for you. Please write back in 2022 and let us know how it's doing THEN. You'd be amazed at what all happens the week after the last WARRANTY is up. (My Silverado experience can be summarized as "too many problems to list here".) Unless you're one of the chosen few that gets a shiny new truck every 2 years. In that case cheers, and the rest of us are still buying lottery tickets to try to get there.

Some have said they thought their engines were more quiet and maybe used less oil running a thicker viscosity and/or regular dino oil instead of synthetic. I ran 10W30 dino oil during the last change interval (last spring/summer) instead of the 5W30 semi-synthetic as called for on my truck. Only resulting change in noise was more lifter noise (go figure), so went to 5W30 Pennzoil Platinum this winter and it is quieter so far; although it seems to use a little more oil with full synthetic. Thicker oil is not necessarily darker-colored or easier to see on the dipstick. I suppose that could maybe differ a little between brands, though. The early 2000s GM light trucks were known for piston slap noise. The 2007-2013 trucks were known for lifter noise. And it sounds like (no pun intended) the new ones are known for direct injector noise, which I don't think motor oil would affect any. As they say, 'your mileage may vary.' There are folks on here running diesel oil in their gasoline engines. After your warranty runs out, experimenting a little won't kill your engine--don't stray TOO far from what the owner's manual says--but you can find it's 'sweet spot' where it runs good and you are happy.

In my experience, some GM vehicles have had difficult to read dipsticks since the early 2000s. Just glug in whatever the owner's manual says (apparently 8 quarts in your case) and you'll be fine. No need to drain any out. It is far more important to be sure to use the correct viscosity and Dexos-rated oil.

I've read on the internet where XM may be broadcasting different stations on different satellites due to maintenance issues and coverage problems. That makes sense. Last week, with my truck sitting in the same spot, I could get some of the 'mainstream' XM channels with no problem, but the Holiday Traditions and a couple of the other ones would cut in and out.

Oh great, now we have to go through the usual "do you mean 2018 old style built in 2018, or 2019 new style built in 2018" deal all over again. GM plays these games and it probably doesn't sell 10 more trucks than they would have. The new 2019s are so damned ugly that they should produce 2018s well into 2019, to sell more trucks while they still can. Oh well, it won't be long before posters on here are talking about NNNBS vs NNNNBS.

Seems like XM has gotten a lot worse over the years. We had an 2004 Buick that would get flawless reception in the garage with the doors closed. I had a couple of company cars 10-15 years ago that I installed portable stand-alone Sirius units with a magnetic antenna on the roof--those were awesome, had built in buffering and song/sports search and scoring updates for sports. Those would never cut out unless you were in a long tunnel, and if they did cut out, it was just a moment of silence, not that danged hissing static noise. My 2009 Silverado's XM reception was never that good, but it never cut out unless going under an underpass, etc., until the last couple of years. Now it cuts out constantly with a hissing noise. I've read where the SiriusXM merger did not include the satellite operations--Sirius had the better satellite coverage for North America. Even though the company is combined, essentially Fords are still Sirius systems and GM's are XM systems. Sirius' satellites do a figure-8 pattern over North America. XM's satellites are down on the equator and the further north you go, if there is a tree or anything south of you, it wants to cut out. They had plans to launch new satellites for combined S/XM operations by now, but are probably too cash strapped to do it. There are internet rumors that their satellite signals are weakening as their satellites age. There are also posts on the internet that the increasing T-Mobile cell tower buildout nation-wide is interfering with S/XM reception, and that S/XM filed a grievance with the FCC over it, but apparently T-Mobile's lobbyists were better because the FCC let them go ahead and build more cell towers, even though they recognized the signal interference. Too bad, I have listened to S/XM exclusively for at least 15 years now, except for when it cuts out. Now I am seriously considering cancelling my last remaining subscription.

Some. Do a search over on that forum and you'll see some posts on it there.

The outside temperature display sticking is a common problem thru 3 generations of GM trucks now. It is programmed to always instantly show a lower temp but not to show a raised temp unless a number of parameters are met, as the engineers don't want the display to show a raised temp just because of underhood engine heat. Press the recirc and A/C buttons at the same time, and the temp display will instantly update, and as a result, your auto HVAC system will work much better.

So how do people who cannot spell or use correct grammar, or learn how to apply a parking brake for that matter, get to a station in life where they can afford new Denalis and Escalades year after year?

150 Watts at 110 Volts means it is only rated for 1.36 Amps! So it won't run an air compressor or welder. And it won't recharge dilithium crystals, flux capacitors, or your lightsaber, either . . .

Wouldn't it be easier to unplug and plug in the Range AFM module when you want then it would be to install a switch to turn off the OBD II port? (Does it really run your battery down? It doesn't on the GMT 900 trucks. What changed?)

Am guessing the Range (turning off AFM) will stop about 7/8 of your oil usage, unless you have more mechanical problems. At least, that has been my experience.

How can you tell cam bearings are going out?

No, it sure as hell won't! I have been a life-long GM fan, but I will never own another vehicle with cylinder deactivation of any kind. I don't care if it's a V-12 or V-8 or inline-4. I'd rather ride a Harley or a bicycle or drive a 3-cylinder vehicle with 5 turbos hung on it! A lot of you all must have either been blessed by the automotive gods, or maybe you don't change your own oil or check it often enough to know if you have an AFM problems. There is a reason GM mandated Dexos oil in 2010 and increased the oil capacity to 8 quarts in 2014. There are thousands of us for whom AFM has been a nightmare. Being forced to get on a first-name basis with your GM service manager (who says "all them AFMs do that sooner or later", and drives a Toyota, by the way) and service techs is not necessarily a good thing. My truck is a pretty good truck except for the problems caused by AFM. The General's AFM TSB "fixes" did little to help. I have to carry a case of oil wherever I drive, and check the oil at least once a week or after anything longer than a short trip. It idles and runs like crap because of the oil-fouled spark plugs. That's with running the best premium gas and Techron fuel system cleaner in it all the time, or it won't run at all. Now it sounds like one or more of the new lifters are going bad, after only 30K miles. 100K mile platinum or iridium plugs? Yeah, right. Only if your truck is one of the blessed perfect ones. I have to change these oil-fouled plugs more than I did back in the day when my Chevy had points in the ignition system. All of this mess for a supposed fuel mileage increase to help the environment. Mine actually increased 1-2 mpg when AFM was turned off first via a Range V8 module and later a Hypertech (stock except for turning off V4) tune! And all of the oil smoke out the tailpipe isn't helping the environment! Not all of us can afford to just upgrade to a new truck to dump an old problem one. Dumping a problem '96 Impala SS is how I got this Silverado in the first place. My dealer sales manager really really really tried to get me into a 2014 Sierra. Thank God that I didn't--everything that is right with my truck was wrong on those; recall after recall. The only 'Chevy shake' associated with my truck is the rough idle at stoplights. PS A word of caution on fuel mileage--if you go by what the DIC says for your fuel mileage, it may very well be wrong. Mine consistently says 20-25% less fuel gallons used than what it actually uses. AFM or no, this thing only gets about 10mpg in town (hand-calculated) and 15-16 on the highway, and that's with the 6-speed. When I inquired about that years ago when the truck was new and still under warranty, the service writer smiled and said "yeah, most people never check that--they feel better about their vehicle when they think they're getting better gas mileage", and oh, by the way, there's no way to recalibrate it.

You woulda been better served to read the last 100 posts, or go back and read them all, in order to learn about all the associated problems and what to do. AFM is a flawed system built with cheap parts and indifferent tolerances. Most important thing is to turn off AFM via a Range V8 module or PCM tune, and make sure you have the revised GM parts installed as per the TSB posted on here. An oil catch can may help as well. Then If you are running synthetic oil, consider running conventional or semi-synthetic, and/or a heavier viscosity. Clean your piston rings and spark plugs as described on this topic. And check your oil at every fill up.

A lot of people on here have had various problems after changing a battery. These new vehicles are very (as in too darned) picky about the procedures you follow. You might unhook the battery, let the vehicle sit for a while, touch the two battery cables together for a couple of seconds, and hook it back up. Lord knows how many batteries I've replaced/recharged/jump started through the years, and I never had a problem until I replaced the battery on my '09 Silverado. I thought it had a voodoo curse until I read on here about unhooking the battery, letting it sit awhile, touching the two battery cables together, and hooking it back up. When I did that, then everything was fine.