Jump to content

2003 2500hd Overheating While Towing


skippy7024

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2003 2500HD 6.0 auto trans 2wd. Normal driving the temp stays around 210. I have a 27 ft travel trailer. When towing this the temp climbs up to 230 240. as soon as I pull over, it will cool off fairly quick. I tried to flush the radiator out, it seemed to help a little, but still gets hot. I would go buy a new radiator if I knew it was the problem.

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Have you towed this load before with this truck? And you had no problems? As stated, check fan clutch. If it's the original clutch, I'd replace it. They get weak with age. Do you have a large enough tranny cooler for the load you're hauling? You can always take the radiator to a rad. shop and have them go through it and clean it out if necessary. You can also get a larger radiator with more rows of tubes.

Posted

Thanks for the advice. I had already cleaned the radiator and condensor. I also had the radiator flushed. I went ahead and put a new clutch fan on it. I took it out today and had the same problem, but I think it is a little better than before. Gets up to 230 going up any type of grade on the highway, but then cools down to 210 - 215. I have never used this truck to tow my camper with. This is a 2500 HD 6.0. It has Tranny cooler, oil cooler and power steering cooler. I assumed it was made for towing. I used a Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 ltr. to pull this camper before. It never got over 210. I took it to Virginia through the Mountains. I don't care to purchase a new radiator, but I can't believe a truck 6 years old has a bad radiator.

Posted

Since you have cleaned rad in and out condenser and now clutch fan i would say pump.

 

Thanks for the advice. I had already cleaned the radiator and condensor. I also had the radiator flushed. I went ahead and put a new clutch fan on it. I took it out today and had the same problem, but I think it is a little better than before. Gets up to 230 going up any type of grade on the highway, but then cools down to 210 - 215. I have never used this truck to tow my camper with. This is a 2500 HD 6.0. It has Tranny cooler, oil cooler and power steering cooler. I assumed it was made for towing. I used a Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 ltr. to pull this camper before. It never got over 210. I took it to Virginia through the Mountains. I don't care to purchase a new radiator, but I can't believe a truck 6 years old has a bad radiator.
Posted
Since you have cleaned rad in and out condenser and now clutch fan i would say pump.

 

Thanks for the advice. I had already cleaned the radiator and condensor. I also had the radiator flushed. I went ahead and put a new clutch fan on it. I took it out today and had the same problem, but I think it is a little better than before. Gets up to 230 going up any type of grade on the highway, but then cools down to 210 - 215. I have never used this truck to tow my camper with. This is a 2500 HD 6.0. It has Tranny cooler, oil cooler and power steering cooler. I assumed it was made for towing. I used a Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 ltr. to pull this camper before. It never got over 210. I took it to Virginia through the Mountains. I don't care to purchase a new radiator, but I can't believe a truck 6 years old has a bad radiator.

 

+1

 

The fins can corrode to a point they are not circulating the fluid efficiently.

 

I see its 6yo, but how many miles?

Posted

How much does the trailer weigh?

 

What was the outside temp when you pulled? 95+?

 

Have you considered an aftermarket trans cooler? Your trans will stay cooler, and your engine coolant wont be heated by the trans fluid in the factory cooler.

Posted

Basically I do everything you have done, then if that does not work, I spring for a new radiator. I get a larger radiator if I can.

 

Before doing that, you might want to confirm that your temperature gauge is reading correctly. Usually when these have gone bad on my vehicles (temperature sender older vehicles/ temperature sensor newer vehicles), the temperature reads too low. I suppose it could read too high? Anyway might want to get a thermometer and place it on the engine.

Posted

I am going to take the radiator to a local shop to have checked out. I know I can get a bigger radiator, but this radiator is the same that they use in 1 ton duallies. I would think that if my 1/2 ton pick up could pull this camper without getting hot, a 3/4 ton truck desigened to tow should be able to tow without overheating. Am I crazy for assuming this.

Posted

I got radiator back from radiator shop. They found nothing wrong with this radiator. I asked about a new one with more cores, and they told me this radiator is more than enough to keep this truck cool. They think the problem is somewhere else. They don't think a bigger core radiator will fix the problem. Theyt also said that the size of the radiator and the way it is designed that I don't need and external transmission cooler or oil cooler. I guess I can remove the waterpump and look at the fins. Does anyone know of a check ho to see if the waterpump is producing enough flow?

  • 5 years later...
Posted

I know this is an old thread but I am have the same issue. I drive an 03 1500HD 4x4 with 4.10 gears that has 230K miles on it. Truck does great when not towing even if I keep the pedal to the floor, but as soon as I hook a trailer even with a light load, like 1,000 pounds, it starts to run hot. It runs 220 - 230 down the interstate at 60 - 70 mph turning 2k rpm and about pegs the gauge when I climb and incline.

 

I replace the water pump about 60 - 80 thousand miles ago, the radiator, thermostat, and all the coolant just less than a month ago. The radiator is an Acdelco GM replacement. I put a 186 degree thermostat in it I believe.

 

I know it is a very hot summer here in Louisiana with temperatures reaching 100 degrees but why does is this only an issue when I hookup to a trailer?

 

Any help is greatly appreciated being that I've tried everything I can think of am I am still left scratching my head.

 

Clint

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,102 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...